Stock rails vs ice age,155 vs 163

RUDY

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Was wondering if anyone can tell me if ice age rails are a lot better than the stock ones?
i really notice that my 155 spins a lot,was talking with buddy and we think 163 CE 2.5 would be a lot better...My concern is do i try a 163 then I have to buy rails or am I better to just put the CE on the 155...
If anyone has a set of rails they wanna part with send me a PM,Thanks
 

2010rmk800144

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ice age supplys the rails for polaris so ive heard, they just took polaris design and found the flaws and made rails of theyre own, i had my stock rails crack so i went with iceage instead of polaris stock rails, and havnt had any issues, and not the mention the black rails look great
 

JP.

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Try the CE 156 3 inch... If u have a 2013 pro... It comes 16 wide you would have to cut it down.
Not sure where you ride but Would help in the deep snow for sure
I used ice age rails on mine
 
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shady280zx

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Was wondering if anyone can tell me if ice age rails are a lot better than the stock ones?
i really notice that my 155 spins a lot,was talking with buddy and we think 163 CE 2.5 would be a lot better...My concern is do i try a 163 then I have to buy rails or am I better to just put the CE on the 155...
If anyone has a set of rails they wanna part with send me a PM,Thanks

To answer half the question, I had a 155 stock and after riding a stock 163 I ordered 163 Iceage Rails and a stock 163 track. The 163 is great and would never hesitate to go that size with the handling of the pro. I have no experience with different tracks, but I always thought the stocker worked great. You are going to slow your track speed down a lot with the 163 compared to the 155 (if that is what your looking for?) No idea on how Iceage rails compare to stockers (heard iceage makes the Polaris rails,) but I doubt one would notice the difference.
 

MarkCos

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If u say u fined ur track is spinning to much
try the assault track it is a bit heavier duty but
it hooks up hard and lays all the engine power down ,cuz the cleats don't fold back under load

Most don't like it for some reason ,they say they can't clime a mountain with
it on or some thing
lol
 

Wilk INStheWEST

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If u say u fined ur track is spinning to much
try the assault track it is a bit heavier duty but
it hooks up hard and lays all the engine power down ,cuz the cleats don't fold back under load

Most don't like it for some reason ,they say they can't clime a mountain with
it on or some thing
lol
Trimming the lugs on the stock track will help with them folding. Cheaper than buying a new track. There is another thread on it, called F bomb mod. It really only helps with the heavier more set up snow, and spring snow.
 

RUDY

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I do have the Assault but with the 5.1 track and found it spins a lot,especially on a hard packed trail,I can feel it spinning and trenching while going up to the alpine...I might try the F bomb mod see if that works,unless I can get a good deal on the parts...thanks guys for the advise
 

sledneck_03

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if you are worried about folding them when you contact ice age they make heavy duty rails with out all the cut outs in them and they might be thicker???

They also have rail stiffeners too.

As for spinning i cut the nubs off my 5.1, left just a hair thickness holding them together. used super sharp razor blade knife. Looks cut for the first little bit now mine looks like it came like that stock. Its a night and day difference. Next to no spinning and no deep snow loss, For example i drag raced my dad on his f8 with a 1.5 ripsaw against my d7 on the lake and we both dug down and spun but i launched ahead and wheelied away from him.
 

Heimie

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Is your suspension set up properly? If you don't have it set up for proper weight transfer, that would cause excessive spin. I just started playing with the suspension on my '13 Assault and it seems that small adjustments make a big difference in ski lift and traction. On my old Yammy, I changed quite a few things, and now instead of spinning the track, it hooks up and GOES! Just a thought.
 

RUDY

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Is your suspension set up properly? If you don't have it set up for proper weight transfer, that would cause excessive spin. I just started playing with the suspension on my '13 Assault and it seems that small adjustments make a big difference in ski lift and traction. On my old Yammy, I changed quite a few things, and now instead of spinning the track, it hooks up and GOES! Just a thought.

I have it set up from factory still,I can't really loosen off any springs they all seem to be at the max..I guess I could increase the clicker from 6 to something higher... Here is the RTSS
ubujegaq.jpg
 
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Heimie

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I have it set up from factory still,I can't really loosen off any springs they all seem to be at the max..I guess I could increase the clicker from 6 to something higher... Here is the RTSS
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/24/ubujegaq.jpg

Are you sure that is the rear track shock? Looks like it is near the front of the skid. I did not adjust that spring at all, but I did loosen off the preload on the rear shock spring just 1/2" and it made a huge difference. Try setting the skid springs back to recommended settings in the manual and then make small adjustments to the rear only. As long as you have the original settings for your weight, and loosen preload on the rear only, then adjust the clicker on the shock to reduce bottoming on big hits. Just my opinion, but maybe someone with a little more expertise can chime in here.
 

RUDY

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U are right that is the front,just uploaded it thinking was rear...this is what stock say and it set at..never touched it ..
Suspension Set Up RTS
Max 11" or Min 9 -3/8"
Stock recommends 10- 1/4"
With track off the ground....
So if I crank it up to like 10" I should get less lift is that correct?
 

Heimie

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I think that's right. I had mine at 10-1/4 and lengthened it to 10-1/2 and it hooked up better with less track spin and more ski lift.
 
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