Skidoo xm problem thread..........
- Thread starter Kyle91rs
- Start date
mach123
Active VIP Member
Jelous, I don't think having a perma smile is to big of a problem, lol
mach123
Active VIP Member
30 pages of the same stuff over and over, so really only 3 little things.......
brew_doo
Active VIP Member
$120 taxes in I believe is what i paid.
3 of us also had the 163" rear spring sagging issue, one in group did the 287/89 update and rolled the rear scissor back 3/4'' with good results.
I talked to Kirt at Nextech and he built me a new rear Fox float system prototype for the T-motion and it works WAY better than above, had to finesse the valving a little but is now very M-10 ish ride quality. I have hit some significant jumps with no rebound kick back or bottom issues.
I double regularly, ski sledding, and just pumped up the pressure a couple pounds with no bottoming on two 200+ pounders
The sled has 2"-3" ride preload single and returns back up to near full height every time empty.
GREAT VALUE!
Excellent ride, I believe he will have kits available soon and is a site sponsor.
I talked to Kirt at Nextech and he built me a new rear Fox float system prototype for the T-motion and it works WAY better than above, had to finesse the valving a little but is now very M-10 ish ride quality. I have hit some significant jumps with no rebound kick back or bottom issues.
I double regularly, ski sledding, and just pumped up the pressure a couple pounds with no bottoming on two 200+ pounders
The sled has 2"-3" ride preload single and returns back up to near full height every time empty.
GREAT VALUE!
Excellent ride, I believe he will have kits available soon and is a site sponsor.
yammyman
Active member
I got a set of evol RC2's for my front and a float 2 and zero pro for my rear. H2R distributors sent em out to me back in September. She said the float 2 and zero pro were brand new for the XM. Had to buy 2 OEM shock bushings for the rear shock to press into oversized rubber bushings that the zero pro came with. Love em'.
v10rider
Active member
Ok, here's a little problem.
My gauges went out a couple times this past sunday. Shut it down and restarted the motor and it came back. Sled still pull hard like always. Just had my 10hrs service done with about 500km on the sled. Do you guys think there might be a loose connection somewhere?
My gauges went out a couple times this past sunday. Shut it down and restarted the motor and it came back. Sled still pull hard like always. Just had my 10hrs service done with about 500km on the sled. Do you guys think there might be a loose connection somewhere?
maxwell
Active VIP Member
there are two clips holding the gauges in. there are indents on the top of the gauges that you press in with a small flat head screw driver. gauges will pop right out and check the connection to the gauge if that's not it then perhaps the cluster is faulty.
LBZ
Active VIP Member
And all you have to do is push straight down towards the gauge to release the clips. Don't pry up. They will pop out when you push in on them.
Just put on the pre filter kit. Got tired of my sled looking like a snotty nosed kid. When I took the console off I noticed my pipe sensor was off. Probably why I was getting a CEL flickering every once in a while. Thought this problem was only on the muffler sensor
maxwell
Active VIP Member
Your not the first. Could be something brp has to address. 1 out of 4 of our sleds either had a hand tight can or pipe sensor. My dealer has been loc tighting them.
thegeneral
Active VIP Member
Not that I would try it but there are 5 XM's that I ride with and we were joking about how easy they start. One guy actually said hey I bet I could start this thing by hand just spinning the primary!
See that right there is why we don't drink and ride. Someone would get twisted around a clutch hahaha
Thegeneral
Once during my ride on Sunday I tried starting my sled with the kill switch in Off. It was a challenge to put a good pull on it, even warm. I think it only seems easy when warm because it fires after the first compression cycle of a pull and makes the rest of the pull easy.
ferniesnow
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When I put on TheThing, I used Anti-Sieze on the threads of the two sensors (a good service tech passed along this little tid-bit of information). There is a possibility that they will corrode due to the heat cycling and the moisture becoming a problem to get out.
The lock-tite should act the same way…..
The lock-tite should act the same way…..
LBZ
Active VIP Member
I did the same. I think next time I would use red loctite instead.
So had a real problem today. Waist deep wet coast powder would plug the air intake. Sled would run like crap just when you needed full power. The secondary pop open intake didn't seem to make much difference The demo last season had the best air intakes from skidoo so far and was a big improvement over the 12's. So why did BRP change it from being up high on both sides to one dinky little intake that is bound to get pluged in deep wet snow. BRP needs to stop having trail riders design mountain machines. So who is selling a intake kit for the XM
This pic just shows minimal snow compared to other times.
This pic just shows minimal snow compared to other times.
Caper11
Active VIP Member
??? i'm stumped!!! so your saying the intakes are not the same between the X and the SP? I have a intake on either side of my X, i can look from one side to the other through the intakes, and the intake is a very big opening on either side.
Am I misunterstanding something beccause I thought the sleds were the same.
maxwell
Active VIP Member
But that's an x in the photo. Looks like some sticky wet snow. Having to wipe the 2 side intakes off a couple times a day in over the hood snow isn't unusual. But I'm also confused because it looks like you have an x model and they have 2 massive intakes that haven't been a problem for me so far
snopro
Active VIP Member
There is no difference in intakes from the X to an SP.
maxwell
Active VIP Member
Ya so hmmm lol
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