Skidoo 850 Clutching Issues

thiels2

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Hey guys, have about 650 KM on a 2024 Skidoo 850 N/A. Having some difficulty pulling RPM at elevation. Currently have a Sledshed cooker can and Dynamoe Joe clutch kit on it otherwise bone stock.

Rode in good low density snow conditions a couple days ago rode around 6300-6500’ and couldn’t pull RPM on clicker 3 with 7000’ weights in, was pulling about 7500-7600 max, bumped to clicker 4 and started pulling 7900 ish. This has been a common trend since installing clutch kit, have had Sledshed can since 0KM. Clutch kit since about 350KM.

I guess my concern is at 8500’ + I’m going to run out of runway via clickers or potentially even weights with clutch kit. Anyone have a similar experience? My thoughts are it could be a loss with the aftermarket muffler, don’t have stocker around but may be better off finding one to try.

Any insight is appreciated!
 

thiels2

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Lighten the weights. Give Joe a shout he’s pretty helpful
Already have, to pull RPM on clicker 3 I’m about 1000’ higher than his spec sheet. As the elevation climbs I will at some point run out of room.

Feels like I’m leaving a lot on the table potentially, will try reaching out.

Thanks!
 

gedakbx

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I would check the sled over good than I had the same sled and clutching last year with no issues. Maybe your down on power for some reason
 

greenthumb

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Are you actually riding at 8500'?
I’ve seen a couple sleds where Joe’s kit didn’t work as expected.
I put the sled back to stock and see how it performs first.
 

thiels2

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Are you actually riding at 8500'?
I’ve seen a couple sleds where Joe’s kit didn’t work as expected.
I put the sled back to stock and see how it performs first.
At times I do for sure, really? Any specific reason other kits/sleds didn’t work?
 

flabbajabba

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I got a stock suitcase if you want to try it before you spend any money

Dj says to try the stock muffler before you get to involved with the weights

Lots of people say the after market cans are hit and miss sometime
 

greenthumb

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At times I do for sure, really? Any specific reason other kits/sleds didn’t work?

Your first post sounded theoretical, I didn't think there was much riding, if any, in this region at that elevation.
I couldn't seem to immediately find the factory calibration sheet for a 2024, as they tend to vary a bit from year to year. Typically the stock high elevation setup is for around 6000' range. Sometimes they call for different parts for the 8000' range and beyond. Sometimes it's just the weight, sometimes its springs, gearing etc.
Since you don't have stock clutching, it doesn't really matter anyway, but the point being, you may not be able to cover such a broad range of elevation on clickers alone. As I'm sure you're aware, changing the pivot weight on the p-drive on the fly is just as easy as changing clickers.
My comment regarding the kits is that I've seen the theoretical setup from the mfg not be accurate. Both for joes and others. I would consider having to fine tune the weight to be expected.
I have definitely seen where aftermarket cans have affected performance though, hence my suggestion to try stock and see if it improves.
It may not hurt to try a fresh belt as well. I've also found aftermarket belts will also behave differently than oem if that's what you're running.
 
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thiels2

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Your first post sounded theoretical, I didn't think there was much riding, if any, in this region at that elevation.
I couldn't seem to immediately find the factory calibration sheet for a 2024, as they tend to vary a bit from year to year. Typically the stock high elevation setup is for around 6000' range. Sometimes they call for different parts for the 8000' range and beyond. Sometimes it's just the weight, sometimes its springs, gearing etc.
Since you don't have stock clutching, it doesn't really matter anyway, but the point being, you may not be able to cover such a broad range of elevation on clickers alone. As I'm sure you're aware, changing the pivot weight on the p-drive on the fly is just as easy as changing clickers.
My comment regarding the kits is that I've seen the theoretical setup from the mfg not be accurate. Both for joes and others. I would consider having to fine tune the weight to be expected.
I have definitely seen where aftermarket cans have affected performance though, hence my suggestion to try stock and see if it improves.
It may not hurt to try a fresh belt as well. I've also found aftermarket belts will also behave differently than oem if that's what you're running.
Actually plenty of riding at that range, anything alpine in Golden area is 8000’ +.

Will try stock can and throwing on a new belt for starters.
 

thiels2

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I got a stock suitcase if you want to try it before you spend any money

Dj says to try the stock muffler before you get to involved with the weights

Lots of people say the after market cans are hit and miss sometime
Appreciate the offer! Did find one to try though.
 

ctd

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Actually plenty of riding at that range, anything alpine in Golden area is 8000’ +.

Will try stock can and throwing on a new belt for starters.
Please post the result of this test. Pressure in mufflers is critical, I've seen issue more than once.
 

Shredder

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What are the rates on the primary spring?? Too much helix for the primary set up is something I have seen before with clutch kits. Guys get chasing RPM and end up too primary clutch focused sometimes. So many variables that affect other components.
 

tundra twin track

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Tough to say, can has been on since day 1. Went with kit for weights essentially. Clicker adjustments only go so far with higher elevations.
I have a 23 NA with stock clutching and been very pleased.A friend used a very popular can a few years back and was amazed after 3000km the performance gain returning to stock.
 

drew562

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I have a 23 NA with stock clutching and been very pleased.A friend used a very popular can a few years back and was amazed after 3000km the performance gain returning to stock.
From xm’s to current. I have never had a skidoo that doesn’t lose power with a can. The longer you stay wide open the more RPM fade.
 

tundra twin track

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From xm’s to current. I have never had a skidoo that doesn’t lose power with a can. The longer you stay wide open the more RPM fade.
There was a fellow that dynoed 19 different cans and with a couple pipes included in the early XM era,some lost as much as 6 hp.

This is 3rd season with a Diamond S can and first can I ever used,so far been very pleased with similar performance as stock.The $1260 tag was annoying.
 
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