ski doo crank bearing

[QuintinG]

So my girlfriend just bought a 2007 summit 800 151". The sled is in quite good shape and only has 1300km. From people I've talked to and reading I've done I have heard that the crank bearings are a problem for that year. So how do I find out if they've been fixed yet or if they haven't, about how much does something like this cost to fix? Also is there any other common issues with this model year? Thanks in advance.

 

[Circled-Mistake]

Hard to repair, but easy to maintain, every season pull clutch primary, pull PTO side seal, and install a liberal amount of ISOFLEX and ONLY ISOFLEX, can be done to MAG side as well, but most of your heat transfer is on your Primary side..... Anyone else wanna add to it??? Usually all u have to buy is a new seal (dont reuse) and a tube of ISOFLEX.... Unless you leave it be, heat the bearing up, and twist a crank.....

 

[QuintinG]

Did ski doo do a recall or update or anything about this? Or did they just wait for blown engines they could make good money from?

 

[imdoo'n]

left it for you to fix, as stated not to hard to maintain.

 

[BIG-BALLZ]

Did ski doo do a recall or update or anything about this? Or did they just wait for blown engines they could make good money from?

Its all part of maintenance, without replenishing the grease needed to lube the bearings, they will pile up....... The heat generated on the PTO side is too much to lube with the fog gas/oil mixture from the inside of the block, using a grease that can handle cold weather yet doesn't liquify at high heat is your best bet..... A Shop/Service Manual for your year/type of sled will be a lifesaver when it comes to maintaining the sled....

 

[QuintinG]

Well thanks guys. Glad its that easy. Any other common problems I should keep an eye out for?

 

[Sprint5]

They just left it, but if it hasn't blown up yet you should be ok because they usually seize up between 900 and 1100km. Maintenance is always a good thing though.

 

[tmix]

mine blew at about 2700 miles...

 

[BIG-BALLZ]

They just left it, but if it hasn't blown up yet you should be ok because they usually seize up between 900 and 1100km. Maintenance is always a good thing though.

LOL you should talk to MAXWELL......

 

[linzoid]

Blew my engine last year, lower crank bearing failure due to belt dust intake through airbox. Make sure evrything is sealed up good maybe add a frogskin to the intake, also I can't emphasise clutch maintenance enough. At $150 plus for belts it is worth it to clean them thoroughly a couple times a season. Depending on mileage its probably a good idea to do all the clutch updates as well, this made a surprising improvement for me when I actually did them myself instead of leaving it to the dealer, saved on labor and belts too!

 

[jbb]

the ones that blew, blew up quick. if its 1300km and no problems you probably got a good one and yes they warrantied all the bad motors. it was to tight of tolerances

 

[SaskSummit]

Good to know I just picked one up for my boy with 2000 miles on it.

 

[Circled-Mistake]

I was thinking about those Timbersled kits with the two Conical Filters and snow sock..... With the belt right there the snowsocks SHOULD catch rubber debris correct???

 

[WildWestDooing]

Perhaps it is about time to do maintaince Drive Pulley or clutch drive. I have e-manual disk but not really helpful on how to step by step fix by myself and I am very disappoint on this e-manual. Do I need special tool for Drive Pulley and which I think it may because these 3 calibration screw bolts need to correct place. Special grease available at dealer? Or is there someone in Edmonton might do repair like this? Is there website provide instruction on how to remove clutch drive and replace seal and grease?

 

[Circled-Mistake]

Perhaps it is about time to do maintaince Drive Pulley or clutch drive. I have e-manual disk but not really helpful on how to step by step fix by myself and I am very disappoint on this e-manual. Do I need special tool for Drive Pulley and which I think it may because these 3 calibration screw bolts need to correct place. Special grease available at dealer? Or is there someone in Edmonton might do repair like this? Is there website provide instruction on how to remove clutch drive and replace seal and grease?

Normally not, it is your BEST bet to go purchase a Serivce/Shop Manual for your exact make/model of sled you have....... We have one for our 3 REVS (05 and 2 06) and have not looked back at a dealership or service shop since... Allof it is easy to do, just have to have the patience and willingness to learn..... A simple puller for the Primary and a few bolts remove seal..... regrease, install NEW seal and install clutch.. Pre-torque clutch bolt, re torque and your ready to roll... Remember when taking Primary off that it IS INDEXED, if the two halves separat from themselves and happen to spin you will have to find the little markings on primary to re-Align both halves.... If not you might encounter a BAD shake, as they are balanced a specific way....

 

[WildWestDooing]

I have service/shop manual but download file and book is not available and download is available. Trying to read clutch in that service pdf file but it is not complete clear or it is some missing.