Ski doo 850 factory turbo cutting out

[fredw]

Seen one in parking lot that had boost issues, said been dealing a few rides with problem and once they removed hood found waste-gate linkage unhooked..

 

[snopro]

Yes heard the circlip can come off. Sled is amazing but needs some TLC as a few little things starting to crop up. Heard A&E had 2 sleds where this problem happened

 

[Fraser1412]

Seen one in parking lot that had boost issues, said been dealing a few rides with problem and once they removed hood found waste-gate linkage unhooked..

I have removed the hood and gave it a good look over and found no loose wiring, springs etc

 

[fredw]

Ya that’s the dealer he got it from I think..

 

[Caper11]

I put silicone spray than cleaned it than put silicone on the top of that clip to keep it sealed and inplace.

Between the turbo oil line, the vent. There is minor things that need attention that can delay a ride.

I also take the hood off after every ride and look for things. This is a first year production run sled.

 

[snopro]

Guys are also saying to put teflon tape on the threads of the antifreeze reservoir with the rinky dink little black cap they are using. Apparently they loosen off and fall into area by muffler. add it to your list and check your caps every day

 

[rbelak]

Hi All,

I've had a similar issue with my new Turbo. The dealership is working on it but not resolved yet. BRP involved and I'm starting to be concerned about losing season. They are now changing the ECM due to my shot going down - it may or may-not be related to the issue described.

I noticed from day one sled was reving to around 8200 rpm on long pulls. I have recently put clutch weights on to bring them down. I have not been able to test the machine with the weights on, as it is in the shop now.

Elevation: ~1700m
Conditions: Fresh Snow, Hillclimbing
Clickers set at 1 - came from dealer in the setting.

On pulls up a steep hill (WOT) , motor would die momentarily at the very peak (full shut down). Causing me to get sled stuck in awkward position. Motor would then recover fully a moment later once the sled was restarted. I would descend the hill. No warnings or notifications on the gauge whatsoever. Belt temperature showing just over 50C. Motor temperature about 45C.

I repeated the same “experiment”, ensuring that the vents had zero snow on them, suspecting it might be lack of air. Same result – bogging and then cut-out at WOT. If I rode just below Wide Open Throttle it did not appear to have the issue, and if it started "bogging" and I laid off the throttle for a moment it would recover. On a different day, the same thing happened, but machine was heavily loaded in deep snow, revs were not high.

No bogging or performance decrease with the exception of these few events. It runs fine the rest of the time.

It sounds similar to me to the OP.

 

[pfi572]

I put silicone spray than cleaned it than put silicone on the top of that clip to keep it sealed and inplace.

Between the turbo oil line, the vent. There is minor things that need attention that can delay a ride.

I also take the hood off after every ride and look for things. This is a first year production run sled.

Yep , is minor stuff that most would pick up on if they looked over equipment every ride .
Can’t believe some of the silly comments on Social Media about problems that are just normal tuning that’s required . Jeesh
A few or maybe a lot are buying expensive first sleds and don’t have a clue about them ?

 

[Fraser1412]

Hi All,

I've had a similar issue with my new Turbo. The dealership is working on it but not resolved yet. BRP involved and I'm starting to be concerned about losing season. They are now changing the ECM due to my shot going down - it may or may-not be related to the issue described.

I noticed from day one sled was reving to around 8200 rpm on long pulls. I have recently put clutch weights on to bring them down. I have not been able to test the machine with the weights on, as it is in the shop now.

Elevation: ~1700m
Conditions: Fresh Snow, Hillclimbing
Clickers set at 1 - came from dealer in the setting.

On pulls up a steep hill (WOT) , motor would die momentarily at the very peak (full shut down). Causing me to get sled stuck in awkward position. Motor would then recover fully a moment later once the sled was restarted. I would descend the hill. No warnings or notifications on the gauge whatsoever. Belt temperature showing just over 50C. Motor temperature about 45C.

I repeated the same “experiment”, ensuring that the vents had zero snow on them, suspecting it might be lack of air. Same result – bogging and then cut-out at WOT. If I rode just below Wide Open Throttle it did not appear to have the issue, and if it started "bogging" and I laid off the throttle for a moment it would recover. On a different day, the same thing happened, but machine was heavily loaded in deep snow, revs were not high.

No bogging or performance decrease with the exception of these few events. It runs fine the rest of the time.

It sounds similar to me to the OP.

My fear of taking it into the dealer! Please update with the repair and even a repair case number so I can reference it to my dealer when I finally decide to take it in. My problems are the same except the shot and not fully shut down just skip then pick back up

 

[Caper11]

Guys are also saying to put teflon tape on the threads of the antifreeze reservoir with the rinky dink little black cap they are using. Apparently they loosen off and fall into area by muffler. add it to your list and check your caps every day

I forgot about that one. I wouldn’t use teflon tape, to many issue may arise from that like cracking the cap in hot and cold expansion rates if too much tape was used.

I wrapped mine with electric tape on the outside. No way that backing off.

So far this is a very informative thread. Hopefully someone from doo is looking.

 

[adamg]

Can’t believe some of the silly comments on Social Media about problems that are just normal tuning that’s required . Jeesh

I think your expectations of social media comments are too high.

 

[fredw]

Normal maintenance to most of the new tdoo owners.. is taking boots to room, and charge googles.. doo should of new that coming into boost, we held there hands for a decade

 

[skidoosledski]

Anyone get this figured out? My sled has been doing this since end of last season. First time it happened was a warm powder day in April in Lake Tahoe, CA. Dealer replaced melted spark plug wire on first fix, cracked porcelain on spark plug was second try at fix (new plugs), then new coil. After the new coil it ran perfect on a few deep cold powder days. Then yesterday air temp got warm and sled started acting up then died on me at the end of the day at full WOT for about 10 pull.

 

[snoflake]

Found codes:

P0562 - pcm low voltage
B2205


my brake light is also stuck on lighting up the tail light always and beeps at me once in a while warning, thinking my park brake is on. The second code might be related to that.

My brake light on doesnt doesn't warrant a trip to the deal in the winter LOL

Tge brake light and beep usually is the little wire that plugs into the bottom of your master cylinder has come unplugged. Had that happen on my last 2 sleds. Didn’t cause the cutout. That sounds like the rave actuator module maybe?

 

[Fraser1412]

They put in a new turbo actuator the summer before the last, that seemed to fix that issue if anyone is still wondering lol.

New short block this summer as the last ride before summer the crank bearing let go and I was getting a nasty rattle from what sounded to be like the primary clutch.

6 months over summer and I got the unit back and shes running great this year.

Old motor got 1700km out of it and never over heated ect ect

 

[Fraser1412]

Anyone get this figured out? My sled has been doing this since end of last season. First time it happened was a warm powder day in April in Lake Tahoe, CA. Dealer replaced melted spark plug wire on first fix, cracked porcelain on spark plug was second try at fix (new plugs), then new coil. After the new coil it ran perfect on a few deep cold powder days. Then yesterday air temp got warm and sled started acting up then died on me at the end of the day at full WOT for about 10 pull.

See last post

 

[Dawizman]

Got hit with a similar issue on my 22 this weekend. Not quite the same though. My sled chokes at WOT under load. Seems like it has to be loaded though, it won't do it on hard pack when I try to film it with my phone. Tries to spool up, but it's like it's not getting enough fuel. Once in a while it will give a little backfire too. Sometimes I'll get full power though. Almost like rolling the dice starting a climb... Am I going to get turbo power, or 600 power?

 

[rknight111]

Got hit with a similar issue on my 22 this weekend. Not quite the same though. My sled chokes at WOT under load. Seems like it has to be loaded though, it won't do it on hard pack when I try to film it with my phone. Tried to spool up, but it's like it's not getting enough fuel. Once in a while it will give a little backfire too. Sometimes I'll get full power though. Almost like rolling the dice sitting a climb... Am I getting turbo power, or 600 power?

My old one did that they changed the secondary injectors and it was solved.

 

[Dawizman]

My old one did that they changed the secondary injectors and it was solved.

Anything show up in buds? I'm hoping it's not a gremlin that they can't diagnose sitting in the shop.

 

[snoflake]

Had the boot from the air box come off on my 2022. It would bog in powder as snow was getting in. Not where it attaches to the hood, but next one that attaches to the air box. I never had that off, but the hose clamp was backed all the way out.