SeaDoo Spark Tuning
- Thread starter TKrebs
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TKrebs
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200$ US through the Silber website . Apparently Westlock can do it , but they are terrible at returning calls and emails , and it sounded like they were gonna mark it up a little bit and charge an hour of labor on top of it for a tech to do it . Quicker and cheaper to mail it directly to Silber .
I did look at that RaceLab one , but figured Silber was a bit more reputable company , a few of my friends have gotten products and turbos through them for there sleds , and said there customer service was awesome .
neilsleder
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Just seen this post. I would look at Riva for anything pwc. And get your impellers at impros they’re good to deal with.
ctd
Active VIP Member
My experience with sending ECU's away for a flash has been less than positive.
The first being if there should be a problem with the tune file you cannot quickly easily flash back to stock to verify. Turns into a she said he said & you end up returning the ECU & waiting.
Second, any updates by the dealer most likely will overwrite the modified tune & you are back to stock. If you have the watercraft @ the dealership you need to insure they do not reflash. Unfortunately the individual working on the watercraft might not read that part as BUDS leads him thru.
The Riva Map X box as an example will do multiple units so you only need one, it saves the stock files so you can reflash back to stock. Easy way to verify to verify if the killer hot rod tune actually changes the performance. Read codes, clear codes & a list of other benefit's. Most likely will work on the sled as well although I've never tried.
You can easily re pitch a stock impeller, when you do that generally there is little difference with the aftermarket. I don't believe anyone paid attention to my elevation comments, stock watercraft are set up for Sea Level. Nice gains can be had by simply getting the rpm where it is suppose to be, just like the clickers. Except you re pitch the stock impeller, the nice part is elevation is not the moving target. What you do notice is how the weather changes peak rpm & the effect on power.
Stock impellers are very good, they are stainless steel & progressive pitch. You buy the aftermarket & will need to re pitch to get the rpm correct. Spend a little with the stock impeller & you will be surprised how well it works.
The first being if there should be a problem with the tune file you cannot quickly easily flash back to stock to verify. Turns into a she said he said & you end up returning the ECU & waiting.
Second, any updates by the dealer most likely will overwrite the modified tune & you are back to stock. If you have the watercraft @ the dealership you need to insure they do not reflash. Unfortunately the individual working on the watercraft might not read that part as BUDS leads him thru.
The Riva Map X box as an example will do multiple units so you only need one, it saves the stock files so you can reflash back to stock. Easy way to verify to verify if the killer hot rod tune actually changes the performance. Read codes, clear codes & a list of other benefit's. Most likely will work on the sled as well although I've never tried.
You can easily re pitch a stock impeller, when you do that generally there is little difference with the aftermarket. I don't believe anyone paid attention to my elevation comments, stock watercraft are set up for Sea Level. Nice gains can be had by simply getting the rpm where it is suppose to be, just like the clickers. Except you re pitch the stock impeller, the nice part is elevation is not the moving target. What you do notice is how the weather changes peak rpm & the effect on power.
Stock impellers are very good, they are stainless steel & progressive pitch. You buy the aftermarket & will need to re pitch to get the rpm correct. Spend a little with the stock impeller & you will be surprised how well it works.
NoBrakes!
Active VIP Member
I was headed down the impeller path as well but when I heard the rev limiter stuff I got distracted... I agree, get the unit to rev to whatever peak Hp rpm is... hp and tq usually cross at 5656 and tq rolls down from there...
that peak hp rpm may be higher than the stock rev limit rpm, and requires the tunes higher rev limiter as Dan mentioned.
that peak hp rpm may be higher than the stock rev limit rpm, and requires the tunes higher rev limiter as Dan mentioned.
ctd
Active VIP Member
Yes their are pump & hull tuning parts available & yes performance gains can be had both sides of the impeller. It is called leading edge & trailing edge. The impeller is progressive pitch, the means it is pitched differently on the intake side(leading edge) vs the output side(trialing edge).
It is difficult to compare aftermarket impellers vs factory or any other brand. Each manufacturer measures the impeller differently. Like sleds there are also elevation recommendations, most dealers never bother to look @ that.
Jet pump tuning is like clutching except easier. The load on a watercraft is consistent, unlike a sled so the results are easy to confirm or deny.
Rev Limiters, the SC fiberglass hulls have two strategies. As mentioned before my experience is with those, my guess is the plastic hulls are the same so I will explain. Their are hard & soft rev limiters, hard is the peak rev limit, soft is usually 200-300rpm below the peak. The reason is power is starting to pull back before hitting the hard limit. You can think of it like jumping the waves, loaded & unloaded conditions.
Aftermarket tunes will remove the soft strategy so you gain another 200-300 of usable power. Higher rpm will improve top speed & acceleration, you need to repitch the impeller to use it. Stock impellers keep you below the soft rev limit, if you are in any elevation you are probably below that already.
The very first thing is to verify if the manufacture has incorporated that into the Spark, I don't know. I've not modified any Sparks other than to take the 60hp to 90hp which is easy to do with modified BUDS software.
It is difficult to compare aftermarket impellers vs factory or any other brand. Each manufacturer measures the impeller differently. Like sleds there are also elevation recommendations, most dealers never bother to look @ that.
Jet pump tuning is like clutching except easier. The load on a watercraft is consistent, unlike a sled so the results are easy to confirm or deny.
Rev Limiters, the SC fiberglass hulls have two strategies. As mentioned before my experience is with those, my guess is the plastic hulls are the same so I will explain. Their are hard & soft rev limiters, hard is the peak rev limit, soft is usually 200-300rpm below the peak. The reason is power is starting to pull back before hitting the hard limit. You can think of it like jumping the waves, loaded & unloaded conditions.
Aftermarket tunes will remove the soft strategy so you gain another 200-300 of usable power. Higher rpm will improve top speed & acceleration, you need to repitch the impeller to use it. Stock impellers keep you below the soft rev limit, if you are in any elevation you are probably below that already.
The very first thing is to verify if the manufacture has incorporated that into the Spark, I don't know. I've not modified any Sparks other than to take the 60hp to 90hp which is easy to do with modified BUDS software.
NoBrakes!
Active VIP Member
I mean there are big gains to be had on the for/aft pump shape, volume, diameters... not impeller design.... also loader grates and nozzle tuning. maybe a tuneable stuffer bullet/cone? ya know what I'm talkin? errr no?
There's no major gains, the grates are a PITA to get off, they use an epoxy to stick them on, thought I was gonna bust the grate the first time I took it off. If you lake or river run, where there is driftwood, you will be picking pieces of it out of the impeller, I do it several times a season on 3 different watercraft..... sometimes several times a day..... LOL
The nozzles are a bit tougher too since they use an electronic reverse arm, which is also a PITA. In order to work on anything, you gotta pull the top deck off. The Sparks are fun just as they come out, their purpose is not too be a hot rod. Yes they make turbo kits etc for them but the motors are already strung out a bit. If you want something more that you can really build on, get the 170 or even the RXP.
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TKrebs
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Finally have a few hours on them now . As mentioned above, to even notice there was a tune in the machines I also had to get different impellers. Went with the Solas 12/14 as recommended by a few tuning places. There is a noticeable difference in take of speed and pull . It jumps up and holds wheelies much easier and you can easily pull them over backwards if your not careful lol . Doesn't quite have the top end speed they promised in there descriptions, but I did gain 2 or 3 MPH. Mayb I just need to lose a few more pounds , and they do seem to be a little harder on fuel as expected .
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