Roosterbuilt clutch kit for xm.

InFeRnO

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I really don't want to pound on the bolt. I would just try the puller, but need a snowmobile, first.... "Apparently" should be in this week.
I have everything else ready to go, and have very limited time to work on the sled(once I get it) between work, and before a planned trip. Just want to know if I should get a new puller before the sled shows up, or if it will work to split them.

Don't be afraid at all to pound the bolt on the ground when holding that outer sheave. It is very easy and will not damage anything.
 

finndoo

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Going to install my kit in the next couple days. I remember reading somewhere that the XP primary puller is different than the XM, or maybe any etec. I searched but couldn't find any info, is this true? I have the puller I used for my '08 xp, is it the same? I have no problems using the water trick to get the primary off, but what about splitting the sheaves? Don't want to pound on the bolt.
The 08 pullers are a bit too long to get a good bite on the e techs, it will wreck the threads. You can grind off about 10 mm of the puller end and it will work. I always use the water trick to remove primary then I thread my old puller from my old 670x days into the clutch quite a few turns. Then I hold the clutch up in the air between my fingers from the sheave with the puller facing up, hit the puller a few times on the head with a hammer and it usually separates quite easily. I too am nervous about hitting the clutch bolt so since I have the puller I hit that just to be safe.
 

MtnMaster

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The 08 pullers are a bit too long to get a good bite on the e techs, it will wreck the threads. You can grind off about 10 mm of the puller end and it will work. I always use the water trick to remove primary then I thread my old puller from my old 670x days into the clutch quite a few turns. Then I hold the clutch up in the air between my fingers from the sheave with the puller facing up, hit the puller a few times on the head with a hammer and it usually separates quite easily. I too am nervous about hitting the clutch bolt so since I have the puller I hit that just to be safe.


This was the answer I was looking for... Will use the water trick to remove, and the puller to split them. And, thats how I do it too, hold the outer sheave with the puller facing up and a couple taps with the hammer and off it comes. Thanks Finndoo
 

finndoo

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going to wrench on sunday with the boys and install my kit, any tips for the install?
I find it much easier to take the entire secondary shaft and all off the first time to get at those stinkin torx, heat them up one at a time and the come out ok. Then replace with bolts and it's super easy in the future. I have tried to leave the top gear in place with a socket and have been successful but for peace of mind I open up the chain case, and besides my RB kit came with a top gear anyways so it had to be opened this time. You can compress your secondary and install the helix with the help of a buddy or two, or very carefully by yourself with a press. There are a few other redneck ways of compressing the secondary but this year I bought the proper tool. Just for fun, after I put my kit in, I used the tool and a ratcheting wrench to take the helix out and put it back in while on the sled and it only took 10 minutes to do. Definitely use loctite on those bolts when you put them in. Take your time if it's new to you and it will be fine.
 

adamg

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My tips are similar to what guys have said. Water trick (teflon, sled on side, fill with water then insert clutch bolt) to get primary off. Puller threaded and then either drop pound on cement or hit with hammer (mine I had to pound it good and hard into pavement). Tons of loctite on the secondary when you reassemble it (trust me, you don't want it coming apart, ruins sledding days). Jackshaft only comes out after you remove the bearing shield hidden beside the secondary. I bought the secondary compressor and used it to reassemble the primary as well.
 

neilsleder

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To hold your primary clutch from turning get a peace of alum flat bar about 1 1/2"-2" long, then you can get it hooked on the ring gear teeth and wedge it up against abolt on the motor mount. Works really slick especially on the hill when turning cause that peace of alum takes no space at all. I will take a picture of it when I get time.
 
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