Rhino Power

[northern bear]

Wet clutch I would think you would notice it slipping. More so offbottom end and take off. Could be a worn out belt. Worn out Yamaha belts still look like new, just a bit skinnier. Or perhaps the primary has been shimmed. How's the acceleration?

 

[AreWeThereYet]

Wet clutch I would think you would notice it slipping. More so offbottom end and take off. Could be a worn out belt. Worn out Yamaha belts still look like new, just a bit skinnier. Or perhaps the primary has been shimmed. How's the acceleration?

He has no bottom end nor top end, revs too high to move, and when you put your foot into it, it won't upshift. We didn't fully take apart the primary, but it looked like the rollers were fine cause the cam plate was seated, but the belt looked like it wasn't all the way down into the primary, but the belt was about 1/8 above the secondary.

But I told him what I would check the wet clutch, because he bought it used, peace of mind is knowing the in's and out's of your machine.

 

[northern bear]

Only way I can think the belt would sit that high in the secondary, would be if its shimmed or its got a machined primary sheave. That alone is going to reduce top end speed. Belt should be tight at all times between the sheaves. If you can move either sheave without the other turning, good indication the belt is wore. Can't see it being the one way bearing, as that works for back revs and engine braking. Can't see it being the wet clutch unless its a high mileage machine used a lot for mudding in high range all the time or the wrong engine oil has been used. Needs to be JASO oil for motorcycles. Some automotive engine oils have anti friction additives in them which will allow the clutch to start slipping. If that's the case the clutch blocks in the wet clutch are saturated and will need replacing. There's a guy on grizzly central forum that sells just the blocks. Can't get them from Yamaha, they only sell the complete unit and its pricey. Good luck, hope its something simple.

 

[Wemac]

If you are replacing the wet clutch or any parts check partsharkdotcom.

 

[PS94]

Did the wet and the one way yesterday. Pulls good on the bottom end, still won't hit speed limiter. Wet clutch was ruined. What rpm should the primary and secondary be? I've got a photo tach here.

*edit* Belt is brand new as well.
All rollers in primary are brand new with new grease...

 

[Mikehunt]

Take a video of it with the belt housing off and rev it up in N to see how the belt moves up and down in the clutches

 

[thekrust]

Sounds like you're on the right track. Next move would be to doublecheck p/n of belt to make sure it is the right one. Then weigh the rollers in the clutch, should be 20 grams for the 700 - 18 for the 660. I'm running my 660 with 16grams and it works way better then the stock weight. The stockers especially on the 700 do seem a little heavy... would put in 18gr if it was mine. Hunterworks has a very nice greaseless roller set-up that I have been running for a couple of years now and works very well. Next step would be to check the secondary clutch spring, if it broken it will cause an overshift situation that will bog you down.

 

[PS94]

Didn't weigh the rollers, just bought 8 from Yamaha....Secondary spring is fine as we had it apart at the beginning of trying to troubleshoot this...

 

[PS94]

well, been running it the last few 100kms, and she will hit the speed limiter on a slight down grade, or over a long run on a gravel road. seems like a pretty decent machine. thanks for all the help guys,

 

[summitguy]

You could do your self a huge favor and dump the stock clutch set up and put in a machined greaseless JBS set up with over drive sliders .. More bottom end and faster top end and it also lowers the rpm a little . Iv had mine in for 2 years and it rocks

 

[Snorider]

yea be careful. cause after the sheave comes muzzy duals, msd and cam.......not like I know that or anything.....

but with roof and half windshield, mesh rear and 26" XTR's i get 60mph on gravel and didn't lose any of that awesome low end grunt.

 

[BIG DAWG]

yea be careful. cause after the sheave comes muzzy duals, msd and cam.......not like I know that or anything.....

but with roof and half windshield, mesh rear and 26" XTR's i get 60mph on gravel and didn't lose any of that awesome low end grunt.

dont forget a trinity bbk, stroker crank and power steering lol

 

[teeroy]

dont forget a trinity bbk, stroker crank and power steering lol

or just build a rhintax....lol

 

[PS94]

i was thinking VDI Computer swap, and a clutch kit... has my 26" ITP's on it now, and stock otherwise..
Does the pipe add much?

 

[BIG DAWG]

dont waste your money on only a clutch kit only go to a machined sheave to get that lower starting point stay away from epi's wet clutch springs
installed an epi kit when we first bought rhino back in 08 killed 2 wet clutches that season then put stock wet clutch springs back in but continued to use the epi roller weight and sec spring in conjunction with a machined sheave and have had 0 issues since 5000+kms now 28" mudlites with trinity bbk msd muzzys cammed and all dialed in by get torqued
cannot stress enough (if u pu a programmer/fuel controller in the importance of dyno tune) huge improvement

 

[BIG DAWG]

be careful which machined sheave you get as well as father in law went with an aftermarket 1 through black rhino and it seems to only improve top end where u are lacking power and unable to use it to its potential any how got ours through central sled and cycle (wetaskwin)

 

[BIG DAWG]

or just build a rhintax....lol

have been contemplating this as have a good freind with a shop that did one of these
would like to find a outty 650 as a donor apperantly they are geared a lil lower in tranny but eng is same bottom end as 800 so toss a 940 bbk with the right goodies a little dyno tuning and I am sure it would spank a commander
the only reason I am contemplating this however is because the ol rhino is already geared with certified fabrications full 4 seater cage setup