Polaris pro question's

[Lund]

So i'm looking into the acquisition of a Pro-rmk but before doing so i'm interested in hearing about engine longevity on these 800, especially with a turbo as this would be my next toy and i would like to have the oppertunity to do so if i choose too.
Also the belt drive with boost, i have heard mixed results but i do have the option to go with an assult, dealer has one in stock with the chain drive.
Another option is NOS, i have lots of experience with it as most all my previous sled's had nos except my Nytro. Anyone running it?
The big question is how well does the engine hold out under these condition's?

 

[tex78]

A po po :what:

sent while I should be drinking tea's

 

[Beels]

A guy I ride with had an '11 Assault boosted from day one. Sold it last summer with 1200 miles on it. New owner pulled the motor and sent it to Indy Specialties for a go through. Internals looked better than a stocker with the same mileage. If they're fueled properly on the right fuel for boost level, there's nothing to worry about that you wouldn't on a stock sled.

 

[Modman]

So i'm looking into the acquisition of a Pro-rmk but before doing so i'm interested in hearing about engine longevity on these 800, especially with a turbo as this would be my next toy and i would like to have the oppertunity to do so if i choose too.
Also the belt drive with boost, i have heard mixed results but i do have the option to go with an assult, dealer has one in stock with the chain drive.
Another option is NOS, i have lots of experience with it as most all my previous sled's had nos except my Nytro. Anyone running it?
The big question is how well does the engine hold out under these condition's?

Talk to Neil at Boost-It. Have heard lots of good on the boosted motors, same deal as so many others have, and will, say: give it good fuel and lots of oil, it should be good. Cheap out on the octane and you'll wind up with a pair of melted aluminum book ends. The new Poo motors are better IMO, but still some question the on the rod leverages. This has or hasn't been addressed depending on which engine builder you talk to.

The new 2014s have an updated belt to address the reliability with riders who obviously ignore the break-in on the belt, or for guys running boost. Its now 40% stronger, if you are not getting a new 2014, I would get the upgraded belt and put in on.

NOS? For the hassle of clutching and price of a NOS kit, I would get an SLP stage kit and spend the money to have more power all the time, not just on the button.

 

[Bnorth]

The 13 and 14 motors seem to be a lot better than the 11 and 12 motors. I ride with a few guys that went through motors with less than 1500km. They are still regarded as being a level or two lower on the reliability scale than the cat or doo motors.

Have you looked at the Viper at all? Reviews are very good, boosted 4t power and significantly better handling than the Nytro. Still heavy though if that's what you're trying to get away from.

 

[007sevens]

I have a 2011 with the fix kit on NOS. It has about 1500 miles on it. I put the fix kit in after buying a Tow Rope Ted Kit looking for more power. DON'T BUY FROM TERRA ALPS. whole different story there. It runs strong but I would suggest the 2013.

I owned and sold and bought back a 2013. The first had a Silber kit in it. I blew two quick drive belts with that sled. The engine stayed together and had about 800 miles on it when I sold it.

I currently ride a 2013 with a C3 belt drive and a HM turbo. Works really well.

They Polaris engines from the old 2008 till even now seem to respond really well to the added pressure on the top end from the turbo. The 2013 even more so. I wouldn't hesitate to boost a pro motor.

 

[Lund]

The 13 and 14 motors seem to be a lot better than the 11 and 12 motors. I ride with a few guys that went through motors with less than 1500km. They are still regarded as being a level or two lower on the reliability scale than the cat or doo motors.

Have you looked at the Viper at all? Reviews are very good, boosted 4t power and significantly better handling than the Nytro. Still heavy though if that's what you're trying to get away from.

Actually i have Brandon and after lots of thinking decided to hold on to the Nytro for a bit, i actually like the way she works and handles in the deep. Plus not wanting to part from a 4stroke turbo or wanting to reinvest into a new one either. The cost of building one is pretty high, even the Viper will run you into $30+ to build, on the low end.
I looking into something easier to ride in these low condition's without putting out a ch!t load of $$. Adding boost and such is just an inquiry on those guys running it, it could be a future idea for it.

 

[Bnorth]

Actually i have Brandon and after lots of thinking decided to hold on to the Nytro for a bit, i actually like the way she works and handles in the deep. Plus not wanting to part from a 4stroke turbo or wanting to reinvest into a new one either. The cost of building one is pretty high, even the Viper will run you into $30+ to build, on the low end.
I looking into something easier to ride in these low condition's without putting out a ch!t load of $$. Adding boost and such is just an inquiry on those guys running it, it could be a future idea for it.

I figured you had to get the boss a new sled before another for you lol

 

[Lund]

I figured you had to get the boss a new sled before another for you lol

HAHA, the way things happen around here she probably take over and be riding it every time, leaving me stuck with the Nytro or the Cat.
Take it this way, with the RZR i'm well familiar with the passenger seat, with the jetboat the only real control i have is my fishing rod.

 

[ASSAULTrmk]

I have an 11 assault that i bought new & have over 4000 miles on it, rebuilt top end once, & almost all mountain miles with PA head & NPP can & some other goodies she's paid her dues !!

 

[CatAttack900]

So i'm looking into the acquisition of a Pro-rmk but before doing so i'm interested in hearing about engine longevity on these 800, especially with a turbo as this would be my next toy and i would like to have the oppertunity to do so if i choose too.
Also the belt drive with boost, i have heard mixed results but i do have the option to go with an assult, dealer has one in stock with the chain drive.
Another option is NOS, i have lots of experience with it as most all my previous sled's had nos except my Nytro. Anyone running it?
The big question is how well does the engine hold out under these condition's?

Would you be interested in buying a 2013 Pro with turbo already on sled. Sled only has 14 hours on it?

For the time I rode the sled I had no issues with the belt drive on boost. For this year though I did buy the more durable belt drive belt and put it on sled.

 

[Lund]

Would you be interested in buying a 2013 Pro with turbo already on sled. Sled only has 14 hours on it?

For the time I rode the sled I had no issues with the belt drive on boost. For this year though I did buy the more durable belt drive belt and put it on sled.

PM me some pics of the whole sled and internals when you have a chance and send me the milage.
Yes i'm interested but first i need to get a closer look before getting too serious.

 

[Lund]

Actually i have Brandon and after lots of thinking decided to hold on to the Nytro for a bit, i actually like the way she works and handles in the deep. Plus not wanting to part from a 4stroke turbo or wanting to reinvest into a new one either. The cost of building one is pretty high, even the Viper will run you into $30+ to build, on the low end.
I looking into something easier to ride in these low condition's without putting out a ch!t load of $$. Adding boost and such is just an inquiry on those guys running it, it could be a future idea for it.

Would you be interested in buying a 2013 Pro with turbo already on sled. Sled only has 14 hours on it?

For the time I rode the sled I had no issues with the belt drive on boost. For this year though I did buy the more durable belt drive belt and put it on sled.

So i checked out your sled you have for sale, beautiful machine. But i think you missed part of this thread, the part i highlighted that i posted earlier.
She is a beauty though.

 

[moto5151]

I've ran my 12 boosted from day one. 2000 miles, before a rebuild. When I took it apart, everything looked brand new. Recently sold the turbo, back to stock. Getting ready for what 15 has to offer. Maybe a turbo snow bike instead.

 

[sledneck_03]

Talk to Neil at Boost-It. Have heard lots of good on the boosted motors, same deal as so many others have, and will, say: give it good fuel and lots of oil, it should be good. Cheap out on the octane and you'll wind up with a pair of melted aluminum book ends. The new Poo motors are better IMO, but still some question the on the rod leverages. This has or hasn't been addressed depending on which engine builder you talk to.

The new 2014s have an updated belt to address the reliability with riders who obviously ignore the break-in on the belt, or for guys running boost. Its now 40% stronger, if you are not getting a new 2014, I would get the upgraded belt and put in on.

NOS? For the hassle of clutching and price of a NOS kit, I would get an SLP stage kit and spend the money to have more power all the time, not just on the button.

yah i have a question to throw this off topic for a bit but i guess its not cause he asked about nos.

What do you clutch for? so you hit under the rev limited on the button? so then you would have to clutch so your running low rpm all the time......

weird..... its kind of the opposite of what you normally do, i clutched for high rpm on trail so it bogs to 8100 in deep snow. so you clutch for what 8000? and drive around like that and then hit the button when you need and the added hp causes the motor to rev higher.


dont think i would like that at all, delt with a 700 rmk that ran 7900-8000 on the trail and bogged to who know what off, was horrible.

 

[Lund]

yah i have a question to throw this off topic for a bit but i guess its not cause he asked about nos.

What do you clutch for? so you hit under the rev limited on the button? so then you would have to clutch so your running low rpm all the time......

weird..... its kind of the opposite of what you normally do, i clutched for high rpm on trail so it bogs to 8100 in deep snow. so you clutch for what 8000? and drive around like that and then hit the button when you need and the added hp causes the motor to rev higher.


dont think i would like that at all, delt with a 700 rmk that ran 7900-8000 on the trail and bogged to who know what off, was horrible.

The RECLUTCHING thing that people do or believe is BS when its for MOUNTIAN application. I've ran NOS on many different sled's since 1998 and there is ALOT of missunderstanding out there when it comes to nos. and how to use nos. Though there are a few sleds out there with nos, few know how to use it properly.
The #1 priority is to have the sled clutched properly so it pulls at maximum HP and track speed in its current or stock setup. Basically for mountian use that is where you want it. Sometimes you can add alittle extra weight if your finding it will get up in the over rev area without the nos, but not usually.

Here is the thing, all nos does is COMPENSATE for the LOST of hp at elevation. So if your sled suffer's approximately a 25hp lost at 8,000ft you can regain it through the use of nos. So why would you reclutch for HP your clutch was already setup to run?
The missunderstanding with nos are flatlanders using nos as ADDED POWER to a current properly set clutch for a given hp, the added hp causes clutching issues and then needs to be reset for the added hp. This is NOT an issue while using nos properly at elevation.

BTW another missunderstanding is nos is hard on your motor....BS, its not if used as intended. The problem comes in when guys try to squeeze 25-30 EXTRA HP out of an already high hp motor.

 

[Modman]

the clutching will be different at 4500 ft than it will at 8500 ft, even on NOS, unless you are then changing the jets to increase or decrease the shot to compensate for the loss of atmospheric pressure with elevation and associated HP loss to maintain peak HP. There is more adjustability now with the clickers on some brands, and nitrous usage changes with your intended usage. Do you clicker up to gain back RPM and only use NOS when you absolutely need it? You risk over rev in this scenario at lower elevations. Or do you leave the clickers at base elevation set up and have the intention of using NOS more to gain back the RPM at elevation. You risk leaving HP on the table when the clutch isn't shifting out and you are not on the button. These aren't things that keep nitrous users up at night, but some things to think about.

Yes its true you set up the clutch to run correctly for stock power. A hill on a 25 HP NOS shot at 4500 ft might get you 8300 RPM, the same hill at 7500 ft might only get you 7700 RPM. If you run the same elevation all the time, then you clutch once basically. If u are riding various elevations, you still have to play with it. Back home in the SW koots I run around at 2700 ft - 5000 ft average. In the middle mountain ranges I run around at 3500 up to 8800 ft, and in the eastern rockies, from 5000 to 7500 ft. I've found that most guys running NOS do so to keep the motor at peak RPM, so they generally aren't going to leave too much on the table when the elevation changes and the RPM drops. Using NOS at 3500 ft back home on the same set up for 8500 ft wouldn't be good.....

The wet kits today aren't that bad for the motor, it was the dry kits from years ago that gave it a bad name due to adding only air and no fuel on the button. now with the extra fuel they much more user friendly.

For me, its not only the clutching. Nitrous is a finite supply on the sled. Once the bottle is out, you're done unless you've got more in the backpack, and even then, you don't want to run out in the middle of the hill when you need it. Nitrous refills are a PITA, even with the station, because eventually you've got to get it refilled. If you carry lots of bottles, you don't need a refill station in the truck or whatever, but by the time you invest in the system, extra bottles and taking them to get refilled, or a refill station. The EFI kits today require a control box (like the BD), which is great once set up but you can go through a few bottles getting it there too.

System: $1200
Refill station:$500
Extra bottles: $300 with the refill station (for alum - CF is more) or 2 for $600 (without a refill station)
BD box: $500
Total: around $2G's

Or you can buy the SLP stage 3 kit for $1,700 or the stage 4 kit for around $2K depending on the accessories, have more power on the hill all the time and never worry about running out mid-climb.