PCV Autotune for M1000 - SUCKS! And other thoughts on tuning from an amatuer tuner

[1badhusky]

After 2 trips to the mountain w/ the PCV and Autotuner installed, and two trips into the shop to see why my sled was running worse than before it had the auto-tune installed, and one call into Power Commander to see if they could help figure it out, and it still running like crap, I'm taking the Auto-tune off and demanding a refund. I don't know why the hell it doesn't work, but the autotune is not a good option for the M1000.

The PCV though, I do like. With the autotune's AFR readings, I was able to manually tune my 09 m1000 w/ intake/can/y-pipe/rkt head via the powercommander V. AFR readings show where it is running lean and where it is running rich - the stock mapping is all over the place - AFR's of 20+ (super lean) (13.5 is the target AFR).

It took some pretty big adjustments to get AFR where it is supposed to be. Last year I bought a map from Racin Station for my mods, but now I'm seeing that map needed some significant tuning based on what my AFRs were. I guess what I'm saying is, an aftermarket tuner seems like a wise investment.

In general, with my mods, sled was running very lean in the 3000-4500 rpm range at 0-20% throttle - which is what I think was causing an occasional bog when I took off from a stop. And then it was running massively rich in the 6000-6500 range, which I think is where many people see bogging - though my sled never had an issue w/ bogging there.

Then it's lean again at 100% throttle 7000-7800 rpm.

Anyway, I'm still working out the mapping, but feeling it's much closer to right than it's ever been. One thing seems clear though - you shouldn't just bolt on a bunch of mods to this sled and expect it to run perfectly.

 

[rigrat]

Good day. Would sure like to see what kind of PCV map you end up with once you are done tuning. Good luck.

 

[polaris700rmk]

would also lkike to see the map once finished. i have the same setup except without the head. was gonna give the racinstation an email cause i heard they are one of the better places for a map. but maybe i will hold off for awhile and see what you come up with.

 

[polaris700rmk]

Are you running race fuel in this machine

 

[Pink-Inc]

I went the easy way and got a map from RacinStation. I'm running SLP pipe. Has run perfect from day one and I haven't touched it once

 

[stormtrooper]

I went the easy way and got a map from RacinStation. I'm running SLP pipe. Has run perfect from day one and I haven't touched it once

Nice to hear. What airbox are you using ? From what I have read, the stock one produces the most consistent results? Do you have egts?

 

[1badhusky]

Here's where I am so far. Pinko, I went w/ a RS map last year and it ran pretty well, but still had this weird low end bog every once in a while. So I was trying to get rid of that w/ the auto tuner. The auto-tuner is causing a weird issue between 6200-7000 rpms when it is activated, but when disactivated I can still pull AFR numbers from it at low rpms in real time. From those numbers, and the trim numbers the auto tune creates, I've built the map in this pic. As you will may see if you compare this to your map, some massive changes from the map Racin Station sent me to get my AFR ratio to 13.5.

I only trust this map at low rpms. I can't do real time tuning at high rpm w/ a computer on my lap. So looking to get an EGT or AFR instead of the Auto tune to ensure the top end is on the money as well.

And for the record - I'm not dissing the RS maps - like i said, my sled ran pretty well all last year w/ one...but there was that one issue - and it may not have been a fueling issue. But now I'm seeing the need for further tuning.

Take it for what it's worth.

 

[1badhusky]

I've got a bdx intake and no I don't run racing fuel 92 or 93 only. The RTK head I have doesn't require racing fuel.

 

[Pink-Inc]

I'm running a BDX intake this year. I only have one ride on it so far and had some bad bogging issues off the bottom but my pipe temp sensor went bad that first ride so I'm not completely sure which was the cause. I can't get out again until next weekend but I'm hoping the new sensor will clear it up. If not I'll try my stock intake again. That's what I ran all last year with RS's map and never had one issue in 1000 kms. Did quite a few pulls getting up to the minute mark wot and never a problem. I'm not running EGT's so I'm not totally sure where it's running but everything seems to be ok. I just stay out of the midrange as much as I can just to play safe. I want to put on EGT's just to see whre I'm running but with the way it ran last year I think I'll spend the money elsewhere until I get deeper into the motor.


Husky, I don't recall having any bog issues last year other than when in super deep pow. I don't have my map on this computer but I'd like to compare it when I can just to see the difference.


Apparently I did have the map on this computer haha. There is quite a difference. One thing I noticed though is from mid 5000 to 6000 rpm the auotune doesn't add the extra fuel at lower thottle settings. The 1000's seem to need fuel added there to give the top end a shot of fuel to cool it after a long pull when you chop the throttle. They are known for sticking pistons in ths situation.

 

[1badhusky]

Interesting that you add the BDX intake and get the bottom end bogging. Bought my sled used w/ the BDX box already installed - I wonder if that is the cause - a lot more air than the stock ecu is prepared for? That sure seems to be what the auto-tuner is telling me. I haven't been out on it long enough w/ this new map to tell if this map will fix that or not. Aside from that bottom end bog - I ran great all last year too w/ RS map with lots of long mountain pulls and some very long WOT trail runs.

I'm thinking EGTs as well.

Interesting about the 5-6k fueling - can you post up your map or pm me w/ it? I haven't heard about 1000's sticking pistons at all, but defs don't want to cause that - amatuer tuning is a scarey place to be.

I'm guessing that when I get an EGT reading, or more time w/ this stupid auto-tuner if it ever works right - it's going to show the top end needs more fuel as well - which does have me a bit nervous, even though I never had problems last year through a lot of riding.

 

[Pink-Inc]

I cant say for sure yet that it was the intake causing the bog as my pipe temp sensor was bad at the same time. I'll know more next weekend. Do you have the RS map still? Take a look at it and you can see the numbers. If not let me know. The extra dump of fuel I think is more for the big bores. I think he puts it there to be safe.

 

[tchriste]

What are your AFR s for top end? A lot of the 1000 are running 12.5 AFRs....I run a mod M8 and I run 12.9. The AFR is the critical part of using the auto-tune as well as working the throttle etc slowly enough that the auto-tune can set up trims. The simple area to set up is the topend, once you have the afr find a hill and pin it....mid-range and bottom end have so many variables to adjust for, for example down hill ridding one may have 2% throttle and be doing 5,200 rpm or up hill 2% throttle maybe 3,500 rpm....one really needs to take their time to get it right. My AFRs vary from 14.3 at the low ends to 12.9 at WOT....some people make the mid-range a tad fat dew to high temps at exhaust valve opening (Cat advanced the timing just before the exhaust valves open to have a smooth power transition).

As for EGTs great tool as a referrence but not so great as a tuning tool. Use plug colour and piston wash as your tuning tools and referrence the EGT temps for monitoring. Good Luck.

 

[grizzlymud]

No sure if this applies but I know on my quad with the auto tune if you leave it on the whole time it confuses itself. Seemed like it was always trying to make changes when nothing was changing. Now just tune it and take off the auto tune.

 

[cjay]

hmmm

just wondering the auto tune take over from a factory tune so if using the power comander it works best starting with a factory tune
also you have to make a pass from idle to full throttle and back to idle
wait then shut of restart and repeat each time it should narrow the field on both the top and bottom end (full throttle and idle )
the other things that really messes these tuners up is faulty throttle switches and bad o2 sensors
i deal with burnt out o2 sensors every year ................hotter egt burns em up
then the computer tries to compensate by dumping fuel to lower egt s
and belive me when this happens they run list poo
and the throtle switch well roll your sled fill it with snow turn the heated grips on and you got water and ice with an electrical sensor
i spray the throttle with a silicone spray it helps

hope this helps let me know
ps check for codes 7 and 17
they re usually the bigest culprits

cheeers