Opinions and pictures wanted: Line X lower body on truck?
- Thread starter DaveB
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OVERKILL 19
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?? I thought gfx is a step up from a LTZ , or a step down from a Denali
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OVERKILL 19
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Just called them, they are open. I said my name was Dave!!! Lol
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- #44
DaveB
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Funny stuff...I was standing there talking to Mark! Haha. I'm gonna give them a shot at 'er. He's going to paint 1 door lower and touch up/polish the other 3 doors.
OVERKILL 19
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Nice! He touched up a ton on my black beast then polished it, works pretty good! Imo.
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PEAK SEEKER
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I don't like that my duratracs didn't come with raised white lettering!
Just read through the whole thread, I have just done running board infills on my trucks with checker plate and looks really good. Zero rust and rock chips on the base of my last truck and had it 12 years, will send you some pics in next couple days.
Did the same to my present truck before it ever saw any off pavement at all.
$212 for aluminum checker plate including the breaking needed and about $10 for the SS 3/16" pop rivets......and it is still going strong as my cousin has my old truck. Kinda lifetime-ish.
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- #48
DaveB
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Hey thanks, that would be great. Instead of spending 1300 on fancy "nerf boards" I might be able to get away with another set of rounds chromies and fill the gap mayself....I like beer projects!
brutematt750
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OK here are some pics.
Upper Left - I drilled bleed holes to match the bottom bleed holes of the factory tubes
Upper right - just shows the end cut made. Better than just square IMO?????
Third pic - Shows gap to body, there is zero buildup of slush on these and can easily clean side of truck
Fourth pic - left a 3/16 gap around all factory support tubes for dirt to have a place to flow out around supports, also allows you to spray youself in the face when spraying
from bottom up lol. In back of the factory support bracket there is only 1 1/4" of horizontal material left so I put a 1" sq support tube from the bottom with three pop rivets on each side of the support bracket to stiffen thing up. Pop rivets from the back to hide.
Fifth Pic - Shows the stiffener tube and 1 1/4" drop leg i had bent to stiffen the 3/16" material. Put the stiffener tube in place before you try to lift or it will buckle like butter.
Sixth pic - Just what finished product looks like
Seventh Pic - I had a total width of 10" including the 1 1/4" drop leg. The checker plate goes 3" past the painted drip edge on the bottom of the truck. AKA 3" under the truck beyond any painted surface - this insures no rock chips where rust is typical. If you look past the number 8 on the tape measure you will see a pop rivet - it is tight to the factory tube. The pop rivet in front of the number 6 has two 1MM thick washers between the checker plate and factory tube. This slopes the checker plate slightly away from the tube under the truck alowing any junk that gets on top of the cheker plate to slowly vibrate off - this slope is not noticable at all.
Not sure what your tubes are like on the bottm but these were flat so job was super easy - about an 8 beer job/half day once I had all the materials together.
If you want some 1/4" checker plate I have some - paid $300 for 2 pcs 8' and 2 pcs 2'- you can have for $150 OBO (Fireball in leu of cash work to) so it gets out of my garage! With 1/4" material the drop leg is not required.
I would have got this to you sooner today but beer and babes comes first in the morning right after Timmies!
Got any questions PM me your PH #.
Oops forgot to mention the rivets - 3/16SS crush rivets not junk aluminum or it will just vibrate apart. I set the air at 110# - overkill but nothing will ever rattle loose, everything is sucked together tight. There are about 16 rivets on each side for the job I did. I would suggest 20 rivets for the 1/4" material as it is a bit heavier.
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OVERKILL 19
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I found some ovals on Kijiji for buddy's dodge not long ago. Cheap and next to new guy took off after put lift on.
If ya got time on your side. You'll find a set cheap
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DaveB
After the checker plate extensions I still went to St Albert Tint and got lights, fog lights, grill, hood and fender fronts, cab posts and full tailgate Diamond coated(3M).
Most important I had the rocker panels done at all 4 doors so the paint does not get scratched or damaged getting in and out of truck.
And if Tom reads this it's true that his wife does all the work!!!!! lmao
Can you tell I hate rusty trucks.
After the checker plate extensions I still went to St Albert Tint and got lights, fog lights, grill, hood and fender fronts, cab posts and full tailgate Diamond coated(3M).
Most important I had the rocker panels done at all 4 doors so the paint does not get scratched or damaged getting in and out of truck.
And if Tom reads this it's true that his wife does all the work!!!!! lmao
Can you tell I hate rusty trucks.
Beels
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Dave, not sure which nerf bars you have, but you can buy premade filler plates that close up between the bars and the body. I believe they're Gatorgear step bar fillers. I have them on my Ram and they really keep the stones and crap off the body.
52weekbreak
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- #55
DaveB
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Beels: my truck is a GFX and the website says "except GFX".....which is OK since my bars are chipped and rusted.
Anyways update: I took off side bars and took to Colortech (Mark) and he did a great job fixing up the door lowers. 3 are touched up, 1 required painting which Mark did perfectly. I brought 'er home Friday (yes, Mark worked Good Friday to get it done for me) and spent yesterday putting 3M clear film on the lower doors myself. Yes, I should have done it 6 years ago when the truck was new....but it's done now. I've done wraps on my sleds before and big trailer decals, so this really was not difficult...no funky curves or shapes. Anyways, the Colortech bill was $500, 3M was $200, and I see some stock GM step bars on Kijiji for 150 bucks....so she should be looking like brand new as soon as I get those on there. Thanks for the tips Overkill19! I will be looking at making a filler piece for behind the bars too, thanks Snochuk!
Anyways update: I took off side bars and took to Colortech (Mark) and he did a great job fixing up the door lowers. 3 are touched up, 1 required painting which Mark did perfectly. I brought 'er home Friday (yes, Mark worked Good Friday to get it done for me) and spent yesterday putting 3M clear film on the lower doors myself. Yes, I should have done it 6 years ago when the truck was new....but it's done now. I've done wraps on my sleds before and big trailer decals, so this really was not difficult...no funky curves or shapes. Anyways, the Colortech bill was $500, 3M was $200, and I see some stock GM step bars on Kijiji for 150 bucks....so she should be looking like brand new as soon as I get those on there. Thanks for the tips Overkill19! I will be looking at making a filler piece for behind the bars too, thanks Snochuk!
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pfi572
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I thought you had to wait after any painting before putting on the 3m ? Just curious as that is what I was told.
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- #57
DaveB
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It was painted and cleared Thursday...he told me to give it a couple of days....left it in my garage Friday and Saturday AM with the heat cranked and figured I'd risk it Saturday eve....it's on there now.
OVERKILL 19
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Good stuff! It's kinda offside how much stuff they can make .......some what disappear !
My truck had lots of issues from a theft recovery Color tech imo saved me a lot compared to repainting whole truck.
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- #59
OVERKILL 19
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Typical Dodge, my 08 and 12 I bought rear wheel well liners......oddly it's a option but dealers never do it!
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