Oil pump for turbo causing voltage issues

[Levithan]

Hey guys, bought a used turbo kit for my 2017 mountain cat.
Installed it and all seems good but i have some kind of voltage issue being caused by the turbo oil pump.
With the pump installed and running off the regulated dc bus,(red/blu for those who know) which runs the dc system, my led tail light flickers at a fast pace and my gauge has somewhat of very light almost unnoticeable flicker in the orange lighting.
Very faint in my headlights as well.
I cannot find anywhere else to run the power for this pump in the wiring diagram.
Anyone know of a fix for this voltage issue?
(didn't post this in the turbo section as it is more of an accessory issue and doesn't really have to do with the turbo)

 

[HotShotHarry]

I am going to make some comments but,I am not an expert on this subject , although I am in the process of trying to relace the turbo oil pump on my 14 PRO 800. Boondocker kit. The Boondocker oil punp is no longer available. From what I understand, and this may be your issue, some of the newer oil pumps, are regulated according to the engine rpm. This pulse type pump may be causing the flickering in your electrical system. I was told that a rectifier would resolve this problem. In my oil pump replacement quest, I purchased a Mr Gasket 12 D fuel pump. It is about 4 times larger than the Boondocker pump and draws 2 amps to run it. I am going to try and cut the amp draw down to 1amp using a 12 ohm resistor. This will lower the oil pump pressure ,although I dont know if it will cause the pump to overheat or cause the resister to fail resulting in the pump to quit. Hopefully someone will chime in and recommend a solution for both of us. What info do you have on your pump?

 

[HotShotHarry]

Further to my thoughts on reducing the amp draw on the Mr Gasket fuel pump, I am unsure if the electrical system has enough power left over to run it properly as I an currently running EGT’s, AFR guage and sensor, air to air intercooler fan, blowhole fan and of course, heated handlebars and headlights. Hmmm.

 

[Levithan]

Yhea i wasn't sure if a rectifier would resolve the issue or not, but maybe worth a try.
Also thought about an a/c to dc convertor and trying to run it off the handlebar warmers lines that are a/c.
I wonder if a capacitor in line with the brake light would fix it?
Really the brake light that looks like crap, the gauge is very minor and will not be noticeable while riding.

 

[Modman]

Yhea i wasn't sure if a rectifier would resolve the issue or not, but maybe worth a try.
Also thought about an a/c to dc convertor and trying to run it off the handlebar warmers lines that are a/c.
I wonder if a capacitor in line with the brake light would fix it?
Really the brake light that looks like crap, the gauge is very minor and will not be noticeable while riding.

Did you rev it up or is this just at idle? If the stator output is not quite enough at idle it might just be a voltage / amperage issue until it gains engine speed. Unplug one of the headlights and see if the flickering goes away. There might be too much draw and you might need to put a battery in. A rectifier really only converts or smooths the wave, doesn't really "increase" the voltage. Why not just disconnect the brake lite and wire in a small, single LED that is normally off, and then lites only when you hit the lever?

 

[Levithan]

If you rev it up, the flickering gets faster and slightly brighter(more rpm increased amperage).
The system seems to have plenty of voltage/amperage, doesn't dim any of my lighting or gauge, mostly makes my tail light flicker, slight amount almost not noticeable on the gauge.
Hood installed or not tail light still flickers.
I like my brake light so changing it is not an option.
Going to order a rectifier off amazon and try it, worse that happens is it doesn't work and i'll return it.
Wouldn't actually mind if the pump only received 12v as it doesn't need to much oil pressure to keep the turbo lubed.

 

[greenthumb]

If you're already on a DC circuit, a rectifier is not going to help. A smoothing capacitor on the pump circuit would be a good start. Install as close to pump as possible as you would want to eliminate the source of voltage spike/sag that may be harmful to other things on the sled. If you're looking to stabilize the voltage being fed to the pump, adding a buck converter (in-line voltage regulator) will do this and have a smoothing capacitor built in. Just make sure not to use a regulator/rectifier combo or a shunt type regulator like the old sleds had.

 

[Modman]

If you rev it up, the flickering gets faster and slightly brighter(more rpm increased amperage).
The system seems to have plenty of voltage/amperage, doesn't dim any of my lighting or gauge, mostly makes my tail light flicker, slight amount almost not noticeable on the gauge.
Hood installed or not tail light still flickers.
I like my brake light so changing it is not an option.
Going to order a rectifier off amazon and try it, worse that happens is it doesn't work and i'll return it.
Wouldn't actually mind if the pump only received 12v as it doesn't need to much oil pressure to keep the turbo lubed.

Ok, possibly then could be an issue with (pulse wave modulation) since its timed to the RPM. Putting it through a rectifier may clean up the signal slightly, depending on how good the diodes are and how clean it is from the start, but as noted, you will likely get a cleaner signal using a smoothing capacitor. Place it across the rectifier outputs and in parallel to the load. Note that you will see a voltage drop of about 1.4 v across a standard rectifier, I don't know specifically what the drop will be from DC to DC in your system. Rectifiers are like $2 at most places.

To cut the voltage to the oil pump, use a variable DC voltage regulator. Like $20 on amazon. I'd recommend putting a pressure gauge on the oil line to set voltage based on pressure. If they make an adjustable pressure bypass for the pump, that's an option to regulate it mechanically as well.

 

[Levithan]

Buck converter made no difference at all.
What size capacitor would i need and how would it be installed?
Just on the power side?

 

[greenthumb]

Buck converter made no difference at all.
What size capacitor would i need and how would it be installed?
Just on the power side?

I am admittedly no electronics expert, just have a hobby interest. I couldn't tell you what size you need, it would just need to be rated for ideally double the voltage you're working with and to an extent, the bigger the better. I would disassemble and raid some old electronics and try few different ones. The condenser looking thing on the back of many older automotive alternators are being used as smoothing capacitors.
As far as wiring, they go in parallel with the motor - jumping between the positive and negative, not 'in-line' or series. The closer to the motor the better. Keep in mind most have a polarity, but the ceramic style does not.

 

[Modman]

Buck converter made no difference at all.
What size capacitor would i need and how would it be installed?
Just on the power side?

Smoothing Capactitors | REUK.co.uk

Or a quick google search got me this:

installing a smoothing capacitor - Google Search

I would say check out the first video by Joe Robinson in the video section. Looks like an intro. I don't have time to preview it but you just wire in capacitors as greenthumb indicated - across the circuit.

In terms of size - I would call the guys at B&E Electronics in Calgary (or a similar place in Edmonton if that's closer) and give them the specs on the amps and voltage and they can hopefully help you out.

 

[rsaint]

Have you a room for a small battery, in my turbo builds I added a small ballistic battery on the 900 efi cat motor with a small water pump for water to air and a fuel pump.