Nytro Reverse bolt breaking issues

[rknight111]

On the Nytro's when inspecting the chain case look at the reverse gear bolt at the bottom, You may find it broken. If you had some issues where it stuck in reverse and it was tough to get it out of reverse, I would have this checked.

Here is some pictures, I had to order the part from Yamaha, it took 4 days to get, I'll post my part number here as well, just got to get it.

 

[SLY]

Most dealers have them in stock, there is an upgraded bolt. Part# is 90105-10369

 

[sledslut]

i think this was the bolt i asked you if you had updated. mine was broken to and i had that replaced when i changed my chian

 

[rknight111]

Most dealers have them in stock, there is an upgraded bolt. Part# is 90105-10369

When I asked at at argyll motorsports the service advisor was a
un-aware of any issues. They don't stock the bolt.

 

[sledslut]

When I asked at at argyll motorsports the service advisor was a
un-aware of any issues. They don't stock the bolt.

Ron, by the sounds of it SLY has them in stock.. should give him a call! lol

 

[magnet]

what is special about the bolt could you not just get a grade 10.9 fine thread and use that?

 

[sledslut]

i dono whats special about it its just an updated bolt so they it doesnt brake. there is alot of stress on that bolt so it has to be a strong bolt.

 

[SLY]

Maybe some dealers are more into sledding than others? and sell more turbo's and performance upgrades etc. But then some are heavy into streetbikes and others only stock one tire for a cruiser. Hey, we have a cruiser tire in stock:d and half a dozen driveshaft bolts

 

[Uzeste]

Just run with out it. Second year with no bolt and no problems. I herd the new one just breaks too.

 

[Washy]

The new bolt will break too. Just run without it. 2nd year without the bolt and I had my chaincase apart and everything looks fine. I have broke 4 of these stupid bolts and it started to wear a hole in my chaincase cover.

 

[rknight111]

I went to replace my track today and noticed my bolt is broken again. This was replaced with the Yamaha replacement bolt. So now I give up on that, I'll get a Grade 8 bolt from the nut and bolt supplier rather than seeing this broken again. This was torqued to factory specs as well. We had to drill and extract the broken end from the drive shaft. I will let Yamaha know what I found, there bolt update is no good.

 

[Washy]

I went to replace my track today and noticed my bolt is broken again. This was replaced with the Yamaha replacement bolt. So now I give up on that, I'll get a Grade 8 bolt from the nut and bolt supplier rather than seeing this broken again. This was torqued to factory specs as well. We had to drill and extract the broken end from the drive shaft. I will let Yamaha know what I found, there bolt update is no good.

I tried grade 8 too RON it broke aswell.

 

[rknight111]

I tried grade 8 too RON it broke aswell.

Ouch, not good, I sent this thread to Climbmax (Randy Swenson) to see what he can do for us. There must be some incredible stress here if its breaking grade eight bolts as well.

 

[tapex]

Did you loosen the set screws in the bearing on the left side of the driveshaft, if not it could have extra pressure pulling on the bolt and could cause it to break more easily? I like to loosen the set screws, replace the bolt, re-assemble everything and then tighten set screws to relieve any extra stress the bolt may have. Disassembled mine after 400km with updated bolt and it wasnt broken. I know its not a lot of km's but I have broken a couple of the previous part #'s in less km's. It must be a pain in the butt trying to assemble the chaincase with no bolt?

 

[chem]

Last night I removed my chaincase cover and found the reverse bolt broken (this is second instance; first time at 1600 km, this time 4500 km). By the appearance of the sheared surface, the bolt looks like it was rattling around for a long time as all of the broken edges are quite smooth. I am going to try a grade 10.9 bolt I purchased from a local industrial business.

A more troubling issue is that I could see that my chaincase oil contained quite a bit of moisture. As well, there are orange rust particles visible all throughout the chaincase. This rust wipes away easily, but I can't see why I am getting so much moisture into the chaincase considering that I have never seen any sign of oil coming out of the chaincase.

Any ideas as to the source of the moisture, and a fix to stopping the moisture problem would be welcome.

 

[j_w10]

Ive had my chaincase apart three times now and not had the bolt broken yet. i put the updated one in anyway. however on snowest there was a guy that was sayin that the bolts were just too long. if you save the last two threads off it will not break any more. maybe you guys want to try that.

 

[suzuki_ryder]

tapex is right. there's a certain sequence to installing the driveshaft if you remove it from the sled. you have to fully assemble the chaincase with the set screws loose and with the track off the ground, spin it by hand, then tighten the set screws. I've never seen those reverse bolts broken in the 3 years of working on nytros, other than customers doing their own track swaps with out knowing.

 

[sfp]

Mine was broken and had obvious sighs of being bottomed out.My bolt is 45mm long is this right?
thanks

 

[rknight111]

Check the bearing on the other end of the shaft, I found that it was split from freezing and thawing then the shaft was moving around and then causing that bolt to break.

 

[cey800]

'10 models now have a snap ring infront of the bolt. It must be Yamaha's way of preventing the head of the bolt from flying around the chain case once it breaks.