New home build costs wow.

[rknight111]

Yep, finding stuff is very expensive. I made the order now for my icf block and heat shield floor insulation from logix. 12200 for a 5’ foundation. Decided to go ahead with that. House is 1710 sq ft. Waiting till next summer on lumber, suppler said prices will stay high until lumber yards sell there stock they bought when high. Should move a bit in the spring. My trusses alone are 28k from Kamloops truss. So will hit me at about 90-100k for lockup. I’m doing mostly myself so far my foundation will be around 36-40k. Been buying wire, pipe and stuff that’s going up fast. When I see decent prices on above mentioned items I go and grab as it will all save money in the end.

 

[catalac]

^^ The builder we had planned to work with said the same, ours was timberwolf truss said y/y double and had “no intention” of lowering prices in the short term on truss and joists, not sure if that meant we are flat out or what.

 

[S.W.A.T.]

N

Stumpage is irrelevant to market pricing. Mills are simply cutting back production for the next quarter, burn off current inventory and cut costs. Keep the record profits in the bank.

Not true, current stumpage rates are based on 1st quarter lumber prices. If 2nd quarter lumber prices drop than stumpage will follow suit in the 4th. And on and on

 

[tmo1620]

I’m loving it, I’m not building anything, record profits from our company’s lumber mills and my pulp plant is also sold out and selling for high prices. Maxed out bonuses for all, damn rights

 

[Lunch_Box]

Yep, finding stuff is very expensive. I made the order now for my icf block and heat shield floor insulation from logix. 12200 for a 5’ foundation. Decided to go ahead with that. House is 1710 sq ft. Waiting till next summer on lumber, suppler said prices will stay high until lumber yards sell there stock they bought when high. Should move a bit in the spring. My trusses alone are 28k from Kamloops truss. So will hit me at about 90-100k for lockup. I’m doing mostly myself so far my foundation will be around 36-40k. Been buying wire, pipe and stuff that’s going up fast. When I see decent prices on above mentioned items I go and grab as it will all save money in the end.

Seems expensive for foundation. I wonder how much added cost because of building in Valemount. I did my ICD foundation as well and have some turnbuckles you are more than welcome to borrow for when it comes time to bracing your walls. I ended up making my own bracing system and worked out great, shortest wall being 5'6" and my tallest being 15'.

 

[Stompin Tom]

N

Not true, current stumpage rates are based on 1st quarter lumber prices. If 2nd quarter lumber prices drop than stumpage will follow suit in the 4th. And on and on

Sure, stumpage goes up and down based on previous quarter selling price. BUT it has no relevance on market pricing. It only effect the profitability of mills in BC, no where else in the world. "Stumpage" is a BC based system and does not have any effect on market pricing which is based on the North American market for selling. The lumber wholesalers in Chicago dont give a squat what the stumpage is in BC. They only care what they can sell the lumber for.

If stumpage becomes to high, to the point that a mill no longer considers it profitable, they simply stop cutting the in bush, shut down the incoming raw logs and burn off their yard inventory until stumpage drops, then they hit the bush hard again.

You call up a lumber broker to buy lumber they dont give a squat what stumpage is. You call up a mill in BC to sell raw logs, stumpage means everything.

 

[rknight111]

Seems expensive for foundation. I wonder how much added cost because of building in Valemount. I did my ICD foundation as well and have some turnbuckles you are more than welcome to borrow for when it comes time to bracing your walls. I ended up making my own bracing system and worked out great, shortest wall being 5'6" and my tallest being 15'.

View attachment 242754View attachment 242755

Nice pm me, any thing I can borrow or advise would be great. Concrete in vale is $245 per cu m. Can’t get a pumper truck in. My foundation walls are 4’ x 6” thick on footings. That includes building permits at $2700, running the water and sewer to mechanical room, all drain and some water line rough in’s, under slab heating lines and logex heat shield insulation, rebar, gravel and vapour barrier and Radon pipes, and to pour the house slab and garage slab with drains and the exterior waterproofing and backfill. This is with me and a few guys putting in.

 

[S.W.A.T.]

Sure, stumpage goes up and down based on previous quarter selling price. BUT it has no relevance on market pricing. It only effect the profitability of mills in BC, no where else in the world. "Stumpage" is a BC based system and does not have any effect on market pricing which is based on the North American market for selling. The lumber wholesalers in Chicago dont give a squat what the stumpage is in BC. They only care what they can sell the lumber for.

If stumpage becomes to high, to the point that a mill no longer considers it profitable, they simply stop cutting the in bush, shut down the incoming raw logs and burn off their yard inventory until stumpage drops, then they hit the bush hard again.

You call up a lumber broker to buy lumber they dont give a squat what stumpage is. You call up a mill in BC to sell raw logs, stumpage means everything.

It absolutely does. The BC mill mafia sees the loss to profits because of stumpage so they hault production in order to control the price to keep profits high. Brokers don't set the rates, mills do.

 

[Cyle]

Not trying to knock anyone but it baffles me ICF is still around. It does not serve any purpose, I have never seen one basement with one that wasn't a mess. You have no idea how good that wall is underneath, the walls are never straight or level, and it's an absolute nightmare trying to get rough ins in it after. If you want the extra insulation, just put foam on the outside, or even inside after, it's cheaper, faster, and better overall.

 

[Legend14]

Totally agree I think icf bad idea

 

[freeflorider]

I looked a icf, didn’t look that bad, 2 friends built with it and turned out good. my builder said we will use some on the lower basement section.
I hear the electrical guys hate it as you need to router all the wire in…I’m no builder so I don’t really know.

 

[Mcstuck87]

Not trying to knock anyone but it baffles me ICF is still around. It does not serve any purpose, I have never seen one basement with one that wasn't a mess. You have no idea how good that wall is underneath, the walls are never straight or level, and it's an absolute nightmare trying to get rough ins in it after. If you want the extra insulation, just put foam on the outside, or even inside after, it's cheaper, faster, and better overall.

 

[rknight111]

In Valemount with only a 4' foundation wall required and lack of materials or cribbing trades in town ICF makes more sense. And my place is slab on grade with perimeter walls down to 4' below grade. With the dual insulation that provides excellent thermal breaks from the exterior.

 

[Lunch_Box]

Not trying to knock anyone but it baffles me ICF is still around. It does not serve any purpose, I have never seen one basement with one that wasn't a mess. You have no idea how good that wall is underneath, the walls are never straight or level, and it's an absolute nightmare trying to get rough ins in it after. If you want the extra insulation, just put foam on the outside, or even inside after, it's cheaper, faster, and better overall.

Ive only built the one house so far and ICF seemed great. Was cheaper for me to do the ICF myself then have a company crib the basement with forms, hard to beat that. Keeping the walls straight and level can take some time but with all the correct bracing you can make adjustments and keep things true. I did a bunch of random test locations around my place and never found any place that had poor cement, nice and solid all the way through. Key is if people aren't use to working with it they might get the wrong mix and slump of concrete, lots of variables. Electrical roughins were a bit of a pain but once I figured out a technique wasn't terrible, more of cheating a giant mess. Maybe its because I built my own place so took more care and time into things but I wouldn't hesitate to build with it again.

 

[Cyle]

In Valemount with only a 4' foundation wall required and lack of materials or cribbing trades in town ICF makes more sense. And my place is slab on grade with perimeter walls down to 4' below grade. With the dual insulation that provides excellent thermal breaks from the exterior.

4' definitely isn't as bad, and if it's all backfilled and not getting finished the level/straight isn't much of a concern. I would still consider looking into renting strip ease forms or cam locks or even buying a set, they pop up on kijiji occasionally for cheap and it's not brain surgery to do and just slap some foam on after, it will take same amount of time and save you a fortune.

 

[SHREK1]

Built my garage the same way Ron is planning, did a 5 ft grade beam with ICF on a 20” footing, my second last block had a ledge on it that my floor sits on, this has worked out great. Very happy with the results

planning another build and will do the same

 

[Cyle]

Ive only built the one house so far and ICF seemed great. Was cheaper for me to do the ICF myself then have a company crib the basement with forms, hard to beat that. Keeping the walls straight and level can take some time but with all the correct bracing you can make adjustments and keep things true. I did a bunch of random test locations around my place and never found any place that had poor cement, nice and solid all the way through. Key is if people aren't use to working with it they might get the wrong mix and slump of concrete, lots of variables. Electrical roughins were a bit of a pain but once I figured out a technique wasn't terrible, more of cheating a giant mess. Maybe its because I built my own place so took more care and time into things but I wouldn't hesitate to build with it again.

Totally depends who does it. I helped briefly on one, and would never touch a block again. I also refuse to excavate for anyone doing ICF or any of these other "great ideas" after pushing in a wall when backfilling from a pre-cast foundation that turned into a disaster. I tore out one ICF wall, other then separating the foam, easiest foundation removal ever, being 6" wall it has no strength, i've seen 100 year old foundation walls that are much much stronger with virtually no rebar. IMO you can't even get proper coverage with a 6" wall, any foundation without 2 rows inside and outside 5/8" rebar is asking for problems. I mean i'm definitely a outlier there as 99% of foundation have virtually none, but my top priority is a wall so strong it would survive a bomb.

Been a few years since I compared but before ICF cost more then labour to crib, obviously you'd still have to buy foam, but your time has to be worth something. From the looks of your pictures though isn't that a 6" wall to? That's a massive difference compared to a standard 8" concrete wall.

Again not trying to knock it, I just don't see the benefit. I think it says a lot that it hasn't caught on.

 

[rknight111]

Heres the costs for the ICF Block and the Heat Sheet under slab insulation.

LOGIX 6" 90 CORNER 56 EA 25.39 $ 1422.04
LOGIX 6" STANDARD 141 EA 25.39 $ 3580.50
LOGIX 6" TAPERED TOP 55 EA 25.39 $ 1396.65
LOGIX END CAP PRO 6" SPECIAL 6 EA 2.22 EA $ 13.37
LOGIX WATERPROOFING COLPHENE 1400SQFT 7 EA 254.2439 EA $ 1779.71
6" FORMLOCK 8 pcs / bdle 3 EA 92.2642 EA $ 276.79
CABLE36 36" CABLE TIE 50/BAG 8 EA 25.6200 EA $ 204.96
MISC ITEMS
AD FOAM ADHESIVE SPECIAL ORDER 3 EA 16.1098 EA $ 48.33
AD FOAM GUN CLEANER SPECIAL $ 16.72
FILAMENT TAPE SPECIAL ORDER 5 EA 3.8415 EA $ 19.21
AD FOAM APPILCATOR SPECIAL ORDER 1 EA 40.7805 EA $ 40.78
UNDERSLAB HEAT SHEET 198 Sheets $ 2648.84

Total 11447.90 + GST.

The Heat Sheet is the expensive one, for regular TYPE II 4X8 2" STYROFOAM 60 EA 27.4500 EA $1647.00, so that would reduce the cost by $1000, the heat sheet has all the slots in it for the under slab heating piping and the rebar. By the time I lay it out with normal Styrofoam then staple it all down I wasted the time on labour and clips.

This is for a 1710 sq/ft bungalow with a 28 x 22 Garage. 4' walls. Its pricy but I was more worried how much it will be in another year. LOGIX puts the supply list together based of supplying them with plans.

 

[LennyR]

Heres the costs for the ICF Block and the Heat Sheet under slab insulation.

LOGIX 6" 90 CORNER 56 EA 25.39 $ 1422.04
LOGIX 6" STANDARD 141 EA 25.39 $ 3580.50
LOGIX 6" TAPERED TOP 55 EA 25.39 $ 1396.65
LOGIX END CAP PRO 6" SPECIAL 6 EA 2.22 EA $ 13.37
LOGIX WATERPROOFING COLPHENE 1400SQFT 7 EA 254.2439 EA $ 1779.71
6" FORMLOCK 8 pcs / bdle 3 EA 92.2642 EA $ 276.79
CABLE36 36" CABLE TIE 50/BAG 8 EA 25.6200 EA $ 204.96
MISC ITEMS
AD FOAM ADHESIVE SPECIAL ORDER 3 EA 16.1098 EA $ 48.33
AD FOAM GUN CLEANER SPECIAL $ 16.72
FILAMENT TAPE SPECIAL ORDER 5 EA 3.8415 EA $ 19.21
AD FOAM APPILCATOR SPECIAL ORDER 1 EA 40.7805 EA $ 40.78
UNDERSLAB HEAT SHEET 198 Sheets $ 2648.84

Total 11447.90 + GST.

The Heat Sheet is the expensive one, for regular TYPE II 4X8 2" STYROFOAM 60 EA 27.4500 EA $1647.00, so that would reduce the cost by $1000, the heat sheet has all the slots in it for the under slab heating piping and the rebar. By the time I lay it out with normal Styrofoam then staple it all down I wasted the time on labour and clips.

This is for a 1710 sq/ft bungalow with a 28 x 22 Garage. 4' walls. Its pricy but I was more worried how much it will be in another year. LOGIX puts the supply list together based of supplying them with plans.

ICF basements have a lot of good qualities, but the 2 most Important factors are the guy on top of the wall doing the infill, and the consistency of the concrete product. The second factor is also very important on a traditional formed wall , but maybe even more so with ICF.

 

[Caper11]

Not trying to knock anyone but it baffles me ICF is still around. It does not serve any purpose, I have never seen one basement with one that wasn't a mess. You have no idea how good that wall is underneath, the walls are never straight or level, and it's an absolute nightmare trying to get rough ins in it after. If you want the extra insulation, just put foam on the outside, or even inside after, it's cheaper, faster, and better overall.

I wondered this myself, wouldn’t you also loose more SQ footage in the basement with a ICF as well?? I know, That’s a big advantage to a PWF basement.
With the new insulated exterior sheeting, I cannot remember what it was called at the moment. There are a lot of nice products on the market these days.