M8000 dies, but starts fine after some time

[Dawizman]

The plugs on mine are right on top of the recoil housing they were wrapped in a canvas cover.//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200407/9322d4646fc75002d2e0e1babe803800.jpg

Maybe i wasn't looking close enough. I was looking for the charge coil connector, and couldn't find anything with the correct colours. Looking at your picture though, I see the rest of em. Guess i wasn't looking close enough.

 

[CatMan16]

You making spark?

No spark.
My Stator tests as follows
Lighting coil 0.3 ohms
Charge coil 1 10.4 ohms
Charge coil 2 10.4 ohms
Injector coil 17.5 ohms
Fuel pump 2.1 ohms

 

[Got boost want snow]

The values look good. I would say your tether or kill switch has an issue.

 

[CatMan16]

The values look good. I would say your tether or kill switch has an issue.

Thanks I do have a tether. Is there a quick and easy bypass for those. I will do some searching but if someone knows that would be great.

 

[Got boost want snow]

If it's original cat it should be plug and play

 

[revdog]

Just unplug the tether wire connector.

 

[revdog]

To test the kill switch.In the service manual tells you to remove the throttle housing at handle bars.Test the kill switch at the connector.In off position should be less than 1 ohm.
In the run position should be infinite resistance.

 

[TROLLCAT]

unplug the kill switch/key/TSS

to check for spark, take belt off or put up on track stand don't need a run away

 

[CatMan16]

unplug the kill switch/key/TSS

to check for spark, take belt off or put up on track stand don't need a run away

Did all of this and still no fire. Verified that the kill switch and and tether switch are working with my multimeter. But tried to start it with everything unplugged as mentioned.

 

[TROLLCAT]

there is a pulse coil or coils they are the first step in the spark process, there is 2 if you have engine reverse, power supply stator

then CDI /computor ...... then coils ..... spark plug caps wires ....... spark plugs

you can swap computors even if there not matched circle/square/triangle for test purposes

 

[CatMan16]

there is a pulse coil or coils they are the first step in the spark process, there is 2 if you have engine reverse, power supply stator

then CDI /computor ...... then coils ..... spark plug caps wires ....... spark plugs

you can swap computors even if there not matched circle/square/triangle for test purposes

By pulse coils do you mean the charge coils in the diagram Dawizman posted earlier? If so mine tested within spec. I am almost thinking I should pull the flywheel and see if the broken rope did any damage to the stator. I clutch started it for half the day to finish out my ride. Could possibly have done some damage doing that

 

[TROLLCAT]

By pulse coils do you mean the charge coils in the diagram Dawizman posted earlier? If so mine tested within spec. I am almost thinking I should pull the flywheel and see if the broken rope did any damage to the stator. I clutch started it for half the day to finish out my ride. Could possibly have done some damage doing that

sorry I should have said timing sensors, they start the spark process

just had a look at diagram

 

[CatMan16]

sorry I should have said timing sensors, they start the spark process

just had a look at diagram

Ok thanks i will check them.

 

[CatMan16]

Ok thanks i will check them.

Timing Sensor 1 is 183.2 ohms
Timing Sensor 2 is 181.0 ohms
Within spec I would say.

 

[TROLLCAT]

pull the fly wheel

 

[mountianguy]

The TSS is a separate plug from the kill switch. After reading all this I would start with it. Remember this thing ran fine until you adjusted the idle. Adjusting the idle is fine to do i have done it lots with no issues. All your doing is opening the butterfly on the throttle body. Where the issue comes in is in the throttle cable adjustment, those cables need some play 3/16" is the spec i believe. If it is too tight or too loose the switch will stop spark. If your stator is with in spec it is good you most likely wont see anything new with the rotor off. The service manuals are still available on Country Cats site and are a valuable resource. Good luck and keep us updated on the progress.

 

[mountianguy]

My 2015 M8000 just started acting up yesterday. Fired up cold second pull, warmed up just fine, and then rode about half a click from the house and it died. Wouldn't restart.

Dicked around with it for a bit. Disconnected the TSS. Tried pulling it over a bunch with the throttle wide open. Still wouldn't fire up.

Towed it home. Went to pull it in the shed and it fired right up. So i went for another rip. Sled ran great for ~10 minutes out in the field. Couldn't sense anything wrong with it. Went back home to tell the wife we could go for a rip again, and it died in literally the same spot again.

Went back home, got the truck & winched it up the sled deck. It started up on the deck first pull. I was able to unload it off the deck and back it in to the shed.

When it wouldn't start, I noticed the gauge would light up on the first pull, but consecutive pulls it would not. If i let it sit for at least 15 seconds, then the gauge would light up again. Not sure if that's normal or not.

Not sure where to start here. I'm thinking possibly fuel related. Maybe stuck injector or failing fuel pump? Possibly bad tether or kill switch? Stator or voltage regulator?

Going to pull the hood off and pull the plugs. Just wondering if anyone has had similar issues, and what it may be.

I would test the kill switch first and verify it is good if so i would temporary bypass the key, tether if it has one and the TSS and try it. If it still quits then i would try the stater testing
You may need to test this hot it sounds like a failed component in the stater may be possible. It is typical for an electrical coil to expand when heated thus causing the open. I would find the plugs and get the specs then run it until it quits and quickly check the ohms. One or more should be out of spec, if it is a timing sensor you will be able to replace the failed part but if it is a component on the stater it is cheaper to replace the stater than repair most likely

 

[CatMan16]

The TSS is a separate plug from the kill switch. After reading all this I would start with it. Remember this thing ran fine until you adjusted the idle. Adjusting the idle is fine to do i have done it lots with no issues. All your doing is opening the butterfly on the throttle body. Where the issue comes in is in the throttle cable adjustment, those cables need some play 3/16" is the spec i believe. If it is too tight or too loose the switch will stop spark. If your stator is with in spec it is good you most likely wont see anything new with the rotor off. The service manuals are still available on Country Cats site and are a valuable resource. Good luck and keep us updated on the progress.

I unplugged the tss aswell as the key tether and kill switch. I left the gauge plugged in when I tried it.

 

[TROLLCAT]

was there starter rope chewed up when you replaced the pull cord

I have seen magnets come loose on the rotor the glue let go

 

[new indyguy]

My Alpha had similar issues a few days ago. Ended up taking the throttle block apart and found some crud in the little spring and area. Cleaned up everything, put back together and all back to normal.