M8000 162 x 3 Clutching setups

[Jorgy]

Looking to see what everyone on he is running for clutching set ups

Weights - type of how you load them if adjustable

Primary Spring

Secondary Spring

Secondary Helix and Angle

Any other gearing upgrades?

 

[Jorgy]

Mostly looking for recommended helix angles for the team clutch. Stock is a straight cut 48 degree. I figure that to help solve the low end power struggle a shallower 46-42 would be be a decent angle? Or should I just got with a straight 46 or straight 44. Thanks in advance.

 

[Allseasons]

Low end power struggle? I think I know what you mean, but explain.

I went with a straight 43. Worked good. After I powered her up I tried a straight 45. Then after I installed an ‘18 roller primary, I returned to the stock 48

Giving you spring numbers and Cam weights is pointless. I’m nowhere near stock

 

[AGGRESIVEZEBRA]

a little more info would be nice

Any modifications?
riding style? (trees, hill climbs)
where do you ride? (snow type and elevation)

 

[Jorgy]

Low end power struggle? I think I know what you mean, but explain.

I went with a straight 43. Worked good. After I powered her up I tried a straight 45. Then after I installed an ‘18 roller primary, I returned to the stock 48

Giving you spring numbers and Cam weights is pointless. I’m nowhere near stock

Haven't ridden the sled yet, but I've ridden my buddies identical sled last year and it is dialed at the top of the power band but down low it did not have the same grunt or response my 15 pro had as my clutching on it was dialed. Just trying to clean up that bottom end a bit to make it more responsive.

All it will have for power upgrades is a SSI can and Y-Pipe and a 21/49 gear up set up.
We are probably 75-80% tree riding, climbing creek draws ect. Only pull hills when getting in/out of areas.
For now I want it setup for deep dryer snow as that seems to be what we get in november/december. Elevation 4000-8000 feet

 

[Allseasons]

Haven't ridden the sled yet, but I've ridden my buddies identical sled last year and it is dialed at the top of the power band but down low it did not have the same grunt or response my 15 pro had as my clutching on it was dialed. Just trying to clean up that bottom end a bit to make it more responsive.

All it will have for power upgrades is a SSI can and Y-Pipe and a 21/49 gear up set up.
We are probably 75-80% tree riding, climbing creek draws ect. Only pull hills when getting in/out of areas.
For now I want it setup for deep dryer snow as that seems to be what we get in november/december. Elevation 4000-8000 feet

Thats what I thought you were meaning. First off, it’ll never be as responsive down low as a pro. A lighter sled, with a belt drive, turning a track that is 30lbs lighter with less hook up. Clutches just won’t make up that weight transfer. I’m running over 185hp and starting off on my buddies stock 15 155 Pro, I always think to myself, wow this thing goes. Till we hit 7000ft+ and in a climb, it just dies, where the cat just keeps building steam

I added the SSI mountain performer kit. Boyesden Reeds, domes and a timing key cleaned the bottom end to mid right up. Snappy, no lag or fuel load up.

I may may be wrong, but gearing up won’t help you in the trees. It’ll help on longer pulls but not trees. Lose torque and recovery time by speeding things up. Suspension set up will. I used to run 2 setups or air ratings. Trees/meadows, and basically lock out. I got tired of pissing around with the air pump and forced myself to ride that bitch in lock out all the time.

With that Y pipe, throw 70 grams at the primary. Make her work, 8200 is where you want her for peak.

With that Y, if you geared up, changed to Boyesden reeds, add a 2.5 timing advance, NO programmer, you’d by running 72 gram weights and spank your buddy.

Work her hard. The only time you let a cat scream to 84-8500 rpm is with a Jaws setup

 

[tmo1620]

Thats what I thought you were meaning. First off, it’ll never be as responsive down low as a pro. A lighter sled, with a belt drive, turning a track that is 30lbs lighter with less hook up. Clutches just won’t make up that weight transfer. I’m running over 185hp and starting off on my buddies stock 15 155 Pro, I always think to myself, wow this thing goes. Till we hit 7000ft+ and in a climb, it just dies, where the cat just keeps building steam

I added the SSI mountain performer kit. Boyesden Reeds, domes and a timing key cleaned the bottom end to mid right up. Snappy, no lag or fuel load up.

I may may be wrong, but gearing up won’t help you in the trees. It’ll help on longer pulls but not trees. Lose torque and recovery time by speeding things up. Suspension set up will. I used to run 2 setups or air ratings. Trees/meadows, and basically lock out. I got tired of pissing around with the air pump and forced myself to ride that bitch in lock out all the time.

With that Y pipe, throw 70 grams at the primary. Make her work, 8200 is where you want her for peak.

With that Y, if you geared up, changed to Boyesden reeds, add a 2.5 timing advance, NO programmer, you’d by running 72 gram weights and spank your buddy.

Work her hard. The only time you let a cat scream to 84-8500 rpm is with a Jaws setup

Also with the SLP setup it likes that 8350-8400rpm range, low elevation speedwerx mapping with the stage 2 will scream at 8400 as well

 

[Jorgy]

Thats what I thought you were meaning. First off, it’ll never be as responsive down low as a pro. A lighter sled, with a belt drive, turning a track that is 30lbs lighter with less hook up. Clutches just won’t make up that weight transfer. I’m running over 185hp and starting off on my buddies stock 15 155 Pro, I always think to myself, wow this thing goes. Till we hit 7000ft+ and in a climb, it just dies, where the cat just keeps building steam

I added the SSI mountain performer kit. Boyesden Reeds, domes and a timing key cleaned the bottom end to mid right up. Snappy, no lag or fuel load up.

I may may be wrong, but gearing up won’t help you in the trees. It’ll help on longer pulls but not trees. Lose torque and recovery time by speeding things up. Suspension set up will. I used to run 2 setups or air ratings. Trees/meadows, and basically lock out. I got tired of pissing around with the air pump and forced myself to ride that bitch in lock out all the time.

With that Y pipe, throw 70 grams at the primary. Make her work, 8200 is where you want her for peak.

With that Y, if you geared up, changed to Boyesden reeds, add a 2.5 timing advance, NO programmer, you’d by running 72 gram weights and spank your buddy.

Work her hard. The only time you let a cat scream to 84-8500 rpm is with a Jaws setup

I know that it just simply wont be as good but getting it to be more responsive (on a budget) is what im looking to do as this is likely just a one year sled. I feel like the gear will help with making it a little more snappy in the bottom end. In my experience higher gearing = faster throttle response to an extent of course.

70 grams was my plan. I have 67gr weights so was going to put 1 magnet in the tip and next one down to make 70gr.

Appreciate the advice. Going to run the stock helix with the BDX springs I'm getting and see how its runs the first trip then tweak from there.

 

[Allseasons]

Their green spring engagement is very high in stock 16 primary. But perfect in 18 clutch

 

[Jorgy]

Their green spring engagement is very high in stock 16 primary. But perfect in 18 clutch

I got their gold spring 145-190 for the primary and the green 190-260 in the secondary. Trying the stock helix then will decide what I want to go with.

 

[srxhair]

Please give me your recommendations for clutching changes to my 2016 M8000 Limited 153 x 3".
I bought the sled used. It has 2000 kms on it now and the engine is stock. The sled works great but the WOT rpms seem a bit low (7950) at 6-7000 feet. At 2000 feet the rpms are at 8200 for the short bursts I can pull on cutlines and meadows. I will check track speed on April 12 at 7000'. The gearing is stock now but I will be changing to 20 / 50 steel gears.
Primary weights; 68 gram, J14-68 arctic # 0646-904
primary spring; 85-255 lbs, 49205085/255 arctic # 0646-471
secondary spring 180-240 lbs, 49312180/240 arctic # 0648-876
Helix 48 degree, straight
Belt 0627-084
Rope starter, Costco premium fuel, stock 7 tooth drivers

The sled has a GGB can on it.

I did read on another post that 7950 may be within the powerband and maybe nothing is needed.
Thanks in advance,

 

[Jorgy]

Please give me your recommendations for clutching changes to my 2016 M8000 Limited 153 x 3".
I bought the sled used. It has 2000 kms on it now and the engine is stock. The sled works great but the WOT rpms seem a bit low (7950) at 6-7000 feet. At 2000 feet the rpms are at 8200 for the short bursts I can pull on cutlines and meadows. I will check track speed on April 12 at 7000'. The gearing is stock now but I will be changing to 20 / 50 steel gears.
Primary weights; 68 gram, J14-68 arctic # 0646-904
primary spring; 85-255 lbs, 49205085/255 arctic # 0646-471
secondary spring 180-240 lbs, 49312180/240 arctic # 0648-876
Helix 48 degree, straight
Belt 0627-084
Rope starter, Costco premium fuel, stock 7 tooth drivers

The sled has a GGB can on it.

I did read on another post that 7950 may be within the powerband and maybe nothing is needed.
Thanks in advance,

I would get a set of adjustable weights and go to a lower 40's helix. I currently am running the SSI 42 degree and it seems to work really good with 72.5 grams in the primary, you may want to go one less rivet (1.3g) as I have a y-pipe. I would also put new springs in as they are probably tired at 2000kms. I have a 190/260 in the secondary and actually have a softer polaris 140/330 primary spring since I am running the lower angle helix and more primary weight. If you want to change the helix this is the setup I would run. If you keep the 48 helix this is what I would run

190/260 secondary spring
145/290 primary spring
SSI adjustable weights set a ~71.2 (one in each hole and extra in the tip
I put 600 miles on that setup to start the season and my belt looked good with very minimal glazing. This should get you in the 8100-8150 rpm range which is perfect.