I got mine setup with the heavy weight in deep with a smaller weight on top, when I get higher than I normally ride 7k+ then I pull the little weights to get my RPM back up
takes a couple minutes is all.
I'm not familiar with the cutler weights, but with the dalton ones theyre hollowed out through the middle and threaded to screw in set screws that are certain lengths that relate to set grams. Just need to use the provided t- handle and remove or add desired set screws. Super simple to use
So I'm kinda new to this. So you leave a little weight in the bottom to help with tourqe then lite on top to bring up the Rpms? Reason I'm asking is right now I'm just running the stock 73g but am about 200 rpm shy of where I wanna be. Could I just buy some say 71g weights?
ya if you ride that same elevation thats a good way to go
I tend to ride all over at a lot of different elevations so I went adjustable
honestly though, I hardly ever mess with them now I got them set where I like.
another thing though, 71g isn't always the same...depends on where that 71g is. Like I can have a set screw in shallow and it'll run a lot different if I have the set screwed in really deep. big difference really even though the total weight is the same.
find I like most of the weights screwed in almost to the middle, but not really past middle or in deep.
Dalton weights on my M8. set screws can set at different depths for different reasons. If you wanted a light tip set the weight down at the heel, however you will loose a bit of top end pull. If you set the weight near the tip you will have good top end pull, however you may loose some back shifting....it comes down to a balance and what you like. I keep the tips light with most weight in the middle and heel, for me it works best for the way I ride. The adjustable weights are great for people that like to play with their clutching, adjust for altitude and snow conditions, and if you are intending to mod your sled....in the long run the little more you pay up front can save money in the long run.