Limiter strap and transfer rod "Turbo"
- Thread starter speedx
- Start date
TABSTER
Active VIP Member
suck limiter straps up tight as they go......lean forward because the stock rear skids are wheelie monsters....lol
i also use pvc pipe, cut a slit in it and snap it over the transfer rods, fills in the space and it helps with the ski pressure. cheap and it works.
- Thread starter
- #3
Have tried suck up limiter strap. How do you have your transfer rod? Min-max?
Going to try adjust transfer rod to middle/ keep limiter strap from one loosen from stock setting and see if i loose bite in ground. Then would track not loosen so much when WOT from standing still run. Have read that yo adjust angle with transfer rod.
Now as for the strap and the control rods working together... not really. They are pretty much independent adjustments. The strap controls the total drop out distance, the control rod(s) control the angle. Now by "not really", I do NOT mean *NO*. There are other variables that can be affected by an adjustment to one that can be controlled by an adjustment to the other. For example, letting the straps out all the way may lighten pressure on the skis since the sled will tend to ride higher. You can compensate for this by adjusting the transfer to angle the front of the sled towards the ground.
glengine
Active VIP Member
Check out the website Kmod.com They build suspension's for sleds and the models they have now have transfer blocks and they work well for helpinf with ski lift and there are different levels of kit you can get from just back half to a full susp.
JohnBoyTurbo
Active VIP Member
14lbs and the stock skid...... Yes you have a wheelie monster. Like some of the guys said already suck the limiter straps down and upgrade your rear shock. And yes run your track tight. It will still wheelie but you wont ratchet the track.
If you want to stop the wheelies it's time for a new rear skid. I went with the timbersled with iceage rails.
Good Luck
If you want to stop the wheelies it's time for a new rear skid. I went with the timbersled with iceage rails.
Good Luck
What we have done for customers is stretched your 136 to a 144 or if you have the 121 version we stretch them to 128. Both scenarios will work with stock tunnel, We also revalve the mono shock so it does not kick back and actually have some dampning which will give you better traction when your transfer rod is set in the Min position with your adjuster gauge. The Camoplast back country 1 3/4 track has been really popular. I realize your in Sweden so if you can find someone out there that rebuilds shocks, PM me and I will give you our shim stack sizes-Darren
- Thread starter
- #7
- Thread starter
- #8
14lbs and the stock skid...... Yes you have a wheelie monster. Like some of the guys said already suck the limiter straps down and upgrade your rear shock. And yes run your track tight. It will still wheelie but you wont ratchet the track.
If you want to stop the wheelies it's time for a new rear skid. I went with the timbersled with iceage rails.
Good Luck
Im going to upgrade suspension and extend to 144" to summer. Now i have suck up limiter strap, have one hole left, loosen monoshock to max on the adjuster and preload still 45 mm sag, control rod 40% . Whats best setting control rod?
- Thread starter
- #9
- Thread starter
- #10
14lbs and the stock skid...... Yes you have a wheelie monster. Like some of the guys said already suck the limiter straps down and upgrade your rear shock. And yes run your track tight. It will still wheelie but you wont ratchet the track.
If you want to stop the wheelies it's time for a new rear skid. I went with the timbersled with iceage rails.
Good Luck
Not good to have track super tight. If super tight you must put extra weight on heel to help. If track to tight clutch will not shift fully out and you will over rev the sled. I have now have control rod with little transfer.
Similar threads
