Jaws full exhaust

Justin248

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2018 skidoo summit 850 154 3”. Putting in a DJ clutch kit and thinking of a jaws y-pipe/pipe/can as well (jaws says the ggb can i currently have doesn’t work with that setup) Any reviews on the sound of this pipe with the rowdy can? Kit doesn’t require a programmer but heard that it runs better with advanced timing. Any input would be helpful before i order. Thanks
 

dragonweld28

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Ill have the pipe and y-pipe combo's in stock for the season and will be testing with multiple cans to see if there is a difference. i will also be finishing the clutching as well. If all goes as planned i should have them for the sled show.
 

chickenman

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I have an MBRP trail can and would like to know how the combo works together??
 

Caper11

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This pipe was actually developed with the stock can if memory serves me right. The jaws can work well with it and sounds pretty good.
 

Jsymes

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This pipe was actually developed with the stock can if memory serves me right. The jaws can work well with it and sounds pretty good.
I was told the same thing, 11-13HP with the stock can and clutching. Any can should work tho as long as it's a quiet can.

No loud cans allowed.
I was told if you pair this with an obnoxious can it will actually rob 11-13HP
 

NoBrakes!

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I'll gladly take 11 HP and keep my stock can. never thought id be happy with my stock can but I find it easier to get on edge and focus more on throttle control rather than WFO everywhere trying to hear my sweet 2 stroke symphony
 

kanedog

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Kanedog 2015-2019, thanks for the good times S&M!
I'll gladly take 11 HP and keep my stock can. never thought id be happy with my stock can but I find it easier to get on edge and focus more on throttle control rather than WFO everywhere trying to hear my sweet 2 stroke symphony
I noticed the motor is offset to the left. The gas tank intentionally holds more on the right side when it’s full but as the fuel gets lower, the sled won’t be as balanced. Then once the 20lb stock can is replaced with a 15lb lighter can, the balance is all messed up now.
This sled rocks. Wobble track and all!
 

slededjr

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Stock can works, Jaws can and MBRP trail/race cans both work on all the sleds I’ve installed the pipe on. No fuel controller required or timing. How ever bumping the timing 1-2 degrees have shown an additional few HP.
 

NoBrakes!

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What needs to be done to the clutching to properly use this HP gain?
 

Caper11

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What needs to be done to the clutching to properly use this HP gain?

Ive got a setup for that pipe thats been tested with the jaws all last winter, in the revelstoke area by 509 rider Cody Borchers.

Flyweight kit, secondary spring and helix.
Currently both in stock at Riderz.
 
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kanedog

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Ive got a setup for that pipe thats been tested with the jaws all last winter, in the revelstoke area by 509 rider Cody Borchers.

Flyweight kit, secondary spring and helix.
Currently both in stock at Riderz.
Dragonweld just promoted his upcoming clutch kit and building a customer base. Then you butt in and promote your clutch kit and name drop. That’s just grimey. Really grimey. One of you is a paid sponsor, the other is not. Knock that chit off.
 

Caper11

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Dragonweld just promoted his upcoming clutch kit and building a customer base. Then you butt in and promote your clutch kit and name drop. That’s just grimey. Really grimey. One of you is a paid sponsor, the other is not. Knock that chit off.

Relax dude, Ben and I just got off the phone chatting about clutching.
I told him I even hesitated in posting that, I’m not even making money off those clutch kits I mentioned. Just letting another member know there is another option if he wants the product sooner.


This will be an exciting season for aftermarket parts. Ben has some great ideas and I would like to try them myself.
 
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FastFarmer

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I noticed the motor is offset to the left. The gas tank intentionally holds more on the right side when it’s full but as the fuel gets lower, the sled won’t be as balanced. Then once the 20lb stock can is replaced with a 15lb lighter can, the balance is all messed up now.
This sled rocks. Wobble track and all!

What are you a scientist? Lol
 

kanedog

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Relax dude, Ben and I just got off the phone chatting about clutching.
I told him I even hesitated in posting that, I’m not even making money off those clutch kits I mentioned. Just letting another member know there is another option if he wants the product sooner.


This will be an exciting season for aftermarket parts. Ben has some great ideas and I would like to try them myself.
Haha, you knew you were wrong for posting that. Don’t stress, I post chit I shouldn’t all the time. Except I don’t get called out by Kanedog the windbag. Haha
 

dragonweld28

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Dragonweld just promoted his upcoming clutch kit and building a customer base. Then you butt in and promote your clutch kit and name drop. That’s just grimey. Really grimey. One of you is a paid sponsor, the other is not. Knock that chit off.

Easy big fella. Its a free world. Theres more than one way to skin a cat.. or a Doo. The more scenarios tested the better we all are. I have learned lots from my own testing, but also learning from others. More info the better.
 

Justin248

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Sounds good, let me know once you find out and get things finalized with your kit! I haven’t bought the dj kit yet so I’m still open to different clutching options. Thanks
 

kanedog

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Ok cool. With the above in mind and the spirit of testing scenarios here is my testing experience with a G4. Any engine/clutching mods on a G4 are a waste of time and money. Here’s why-For every one item modded, there are four other issues that prevent any progress. A blatant example is this-How many companies are selling weight kits? Six? How many have an on hill video showing the heat reduction compared to stock heat? Zero. Ask yourself why is that? Because they don’t reduce heat much. If the kits did, they would advertise as such. All weight kits do is provide more belt squeeze to overcome the crooked wobble sheave. It’s not the weight guys fault tho. I wouldn’t call it a mod, it’s more of a repair.
Anyhoo-I wasted a year of my life messing with g4 clutching. Any gain/forward momentum was quickly extinguished by the sled breaking and going into shop for weeks at a time. Every fookin time this happened.
There are just too many issues to overcome with the G4.
I managed to reduce belt/clutch heat from 210+ to 185 and double if not triple belt life. It was just a simple gear change to 19/50 or a better 19/52. The reason this works is the lower gearing allows the belt to ride higher up on the primary, providing more surface and grip area. In addition, there is much less load on the belt and clutches. Even the clutching is fixed, the attack angle and suspension make it impossible to get the power to the ground cuz it’s always in a big ass wheelie, spinning the track on the rear 12” of track.
If one chooses to mod/tune a g4, it is a pull yer hair out, futile experience. Don’t say the Dog didn’t warn ya.
This is assuming heavy mountain aggressive climbing/riding.
I do not recommend spending any money on engine mods. Unless you want the cool, brag factor. Which we all know and love!
Put that in yer pipe and smoke it!!!
 
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jpmez69

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Ill get it figured out.....

I like that can doo attitude.. If there are performance gains to be had from stock, It's nice to see that you're in Edmonton. I will finally have one in my garage to dissect properly..
 
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