Holy fawk-----h+s programmer

[the_real_wild1]

WTF I made a post but must have hit the back button instead of submit. I have alway run on the hot setting. Have my defueling set up for trans temp at 170 and coolant at 220 hot and 140 cold. Also have boost defuel at 35 psi but might try it at 33 to see how the power is. If it is still running awesome power at 33 then might as well go with the lower pressure. As for fuel mieage I tried it at wild all the way back to stock. The lower the power setting the worse the mileage went. Coming home I was at 13.7l/100kms and crawling down. The only reason it was that high is I may have nailed the throttle a few times on the drive

 

[jazzman]

My black maxx works geat on my 2010 dodge 3500! Twice the truck now.4" Turbo back exhaust and small muffler its not to loud but a good rumble.And the egr delete as well. Troy at No Limit automotive and performance fixed her up for me awesome guys out there! Have any of you guys have the programer screen not light up when you start the truck? The keys light up but the screen is black every once in a while. Troy is looking into it but I thought I would ask around.

 

[Summitric]

my black maxx works geat on my 2010 dodge 3500! Twice the truck now.4" turbo back exhaust and small muffler its not to loud but a good rumble.and the egr delete as well. Troy at no limit automotive and performance fixed her up for me awesome guys out there! Have any of you guys have the programer screen not light up when you start the truck? The keys light up but the screen is black every once in a while. Troy is looking into it but i thought i would ask around.

\

oh, no........... Not the infamous black screen................












Lol..........

We had one we sold and installed a few months ago and it was a faulty unit....... Warranty took care of it......... Rarely get a problem with any tuners

 

[DRD]

WTF I made a post but must have hit the back button instead of submit. I have alway run on the hot setting. Have my defueling set up for trans temp at 170 and coolant at 220 hot and 140 cold. Also have boost defuel at 35 psi but might try it at 33 to see how the power is. If it is still running awesome power at 33 then might as well go with the lower pressure. As for fuel mieage I tried it at wild all the way back to stock. The lower the power setting the worse the mileage went. Coming home I was at 13.7l/100kms and crawling down. The only reason it was that high is I may have nailed the throttle a few times on the drive

You need to calculate the mileage by hand, not the lie-o-meter. The O/H will be more optimistic the higher the tune

 

[Longhorn]

You need to calculate the mileage by hand, not the lie-o-meter. The O/H will be more optimistic the higher the tune

Very true. Good advice.

 

[the_real_wild1]

It doesnt matter to me enough to calculate by hand. I know what I was getting before vs now and how far I can go on a tank of gas. Plus there are too many varibles with my driving to say my trucks one specific number. I can get an average of 25 mpg or I can get 6 mpg depending on my mood, using my remote starter and idle time, etc. I have had my screen go blank and rest a couple times during my drive today. I am pretty sure it is the power feed. I tightened it up when I got home and hopefully that is all it was.

 

[Griz-L-Bar]

Got a 2007.5 ya the grandpa 6.7. Anyway did full deletes, 5" flopro into 4" duals with 6" tips straight pipe. AFE Mega cannon, And a mini maxx H&S.

Truck does drone a bit in the lower rpms(under1400rpm) when under load, and gets almost "snappy" above 2300rpm. But its tollerable to me. Also have pulled 12000lbs 5th wheel and it was comfortable in cab to talk at normal levels.

Mileage has increased big time 18mpg pulling horse trailer to calg and back at 115km/h(hand calculated).

And scatters when you get on the loud pedal.

Did all work myself, broke one stud on back egr plate but got it out and replaced.

Motor itself is noticably louder in town.

Turbo spool is very noticable at any rpm or speed.

Would recomend this setup to anyone that does not have a toddler or is a grumpy old man.

H&S has worked flawless.

AS for running on the hot tune for milage. its going to take one hell of alot of miles to recope the offset in price between diesel and a $4000 tranny(est.) and a $20000 engine rebuild(not est.) my bud just cooked his, warped the piston sleeve under medium load(motorbike trailer 2 place) and high settings and cooked his #6 piston.

Food for thought boys, smoke is all fun untill you have to pull 20 large out ur but.

Oh and one thing you might want to do while you change ur head studs or even if you have extra time one day.
In your intake plenum(not the horn) is your factory intake heater(or glow plugs) remove this heater and clean it out, it will be full of soot from your egr. This will help reduce the risk of melting your 5 & 6 pistons due to a lean air condition.

This problem can be seen on Glacier Diesel Performance website. They have a couple different avenues to fix it(read spend your money) but for the average guy a new heater or good cleaning would suffice.

Oh and Mattiac 1600 for your pyro holf FFFFF ive only seen my up to 1000 so far what you pulling man?

I hope this helps guys. Ive done hours of research on these things as I want mine to stay around for awhile.

 

[Rockwerx]

I ditched the stock VGT a few months ago on my 6.7 for a Silver Bullet 66 turbo. When I started the truck after the manifold and turbo swap I could not believe how it uncorked my engine. I had no idea how restrictive the stock turbo was until the swap. The truck gained around 10% better fuel economy loaded or empty with a lot more torque and hp on tap. Did not change my tuning...just the manifold and turbo.

This was the best mod after the basic deletes that I have done to the truck. The only downside is that the truck is extremely loud especially if you get on the throttle. I am running a Magnaflow 15986 turbo back system. It used to be pretty quiet with the stock VGT and stock manifold...not any more. lol EGTs are a lot less than they were. Drive pressure is also a lot better than the stock setup. At 32 psi boost it used to be over 60 psi...now it is 30 psi. After 45 psi boost the drive pressure rises rapidly...I have mine setup to stay below 35 psi. So far I am very happy with this combination for my towing needs.

 

[the_real_wild1]

I am a hd mechanic but have never heard the term drive pressure. Splain please?

 

[Griz-L-Bar]

I am a hd mechanic but have never heard the term drive pressure. Splain please?

I believe he is refering to the presure build up pre-turbo(hot side) compared to post(cold side)

The factory turbo has a very small outlet, which is why you will see a kit made by GDP that attaches to where your egr plates would have, and has a series of pipes with a waste gate on it. This will help give the factory turbo more outlet flow and still maintain the vgt system.

 

[white6]

Got my mini maxx programmer!
anddd my man installed it for me while I was at work the other day hehe that thing is awesome! Im running it DPF in so im only on the wild setting (80hp) but it certainly wakens the truck up. I was actually pretty impressed at how much it did so while still under stock setup. Never had a chance to do the tranny re-learn so the tranny is still adjusting as it only has 20-30min of town driving with the tune. Also the display sure is tiny, its about half the size of my iphone i think. But not so small I cant read the data I need off of it. Another plus is I didn't need the pyro connect bc the ob2 (ha thats not the right name, but its close ) is already setup to monitor those temps, so once the programmer is connected it outputs it to the display. Going to start scoping out turbo back exhausts w dpf & muffler deletes now.

Only thing im not overly impressed with is the cheapness of the pillar that is ordered with it. Cheap looking, held in with 1 screw n doesnt clip into any of the oem brackets, and that one screw doesnt even have a cap/cover for it. Pretty sad considering they cost $70ish. Mines not painted yet but not sure I'll bother. Probably be on the lookout for a better aftermarket one or see if my oem pillar can be modified.

All in all, super excited and happy. Cant wait for the full system to be done and to see how she hauls both power and mileage wise. Thanks for the suggestions and inputs guys!

 

[GYMBRAT]

I have had the Bully Dog Triple Dog in mine for a long time for my 6.6 dmax, nothing to write home about thats for sure lol

 

[TRAV]

Check out FLOW-PRO exhaust, only kits I used when doing Urea deletes. They make a turbo back kit for the LML that is straight forward and fits nice! I would also look into the Pyrometer location, anything other than pre turbo is useless!!

Got my mini maxx programmer!
anddd my man installed it for me while I was at work the other day hehe that thing is awesome! Im running it DPF in so im only on the wild setting (80hp) but it certainly wakens the truck up. I was actually pretty impressed at how much it did so while still under stock setup. Never had a chance to do the tranny re-learn so the tranny is still adjusting as it only has 20-30min of town driving with the tune. Also the display sure is tiny, its about half the size of my iphone i think. But not so small I cant read the data I need off of it. Another plus is I didn't need the pyro connect bc the ob2 (ha thats not the right name, but its close ) is already setup to monitor those temps, so once the programmer is connected it outputs it to the display. Going to start scoping out turbo back exhausts w dpf & muffler deletes now.

Only thing im not overly impressed with is the cheapness of the pillar that is ordered with it. Cheap looking, held in with 1 screw n doesnt clip into any of the oem brackets, and that one screw doesnt even have a cap/cover for it. Pretty sad considering they cost $70ish. Mines not painted yet but not sure I'll bother. Probably be on the lookout for a better aftermarket one or see if my oem pillar can be modified.

All in all, super excited and happy. Cant wait for the full system to be done and to see how she hauls both power and mileage wise. Thanks for the suggestions and inputs guys!

 

[white6]

Thanks will do. Dont need a urea delete as im in a 2009, but will be doing dpf and muffler for sure. The factory pyrometer location would not be pre-turbo? dont most people not mount there aftermarket ones pre-turbo anyway?

 

[TRAV]

My mistake, I thaught you were in a 2011-2012, never looked. For the 07-10 ones I use a magnaflow kit for the 01-06. You need to cut off the front hanger and reweld in a different location, kits also fit good, I like them better than the Flow-Pro kits for those years. Those trucks do not have a pre turbo pyrometer, only EGT sensors are before and after particulate filter. And yeah most people do run a pre turbo pyro

 

[white6]

I'll keep the magnaflow in mind. Seems hard to find turbo-back or downpipe back exhausts for the 07.5-10 model year.

 

[Rotax_Kid]

I have the Mini Maxx in my 2010 Ram 3500. Also have the EGR block off plates, and 5' Flo Pro delete pipe. Everything to my door was $1300.

Power level above stock, the truck isn't too much different than stock setting. At the Wild Setting, second above stock, the truck is alot more responsive and spools considerably faster. I've towed in both levels, and prefer to tow in the wild setting, but am always scarred of a tranny death, even though I don't see tranny temps ever over 60C. What is everyone else towing at?

Noise level between the DPF delete and the stock truck is very close to the same I find. Not a big difference. Truck runs so much better and it has that wonderful tailpipe smell of fresh diesel again.

I highly recommend the H&S Tranny software. Without it, the truck wavered through shifts. Now, the torque converter locks up almost immediately after a shift. I think I will have to keep an eye on u-joints because of this. I would think it jolts the driveline pretty good when it locks.

Mileage is a bit better (2-3mpg better than stock), but the improvement in run quality is alot better than stock. Only greif I've had is everyone once in a while the truck has to crank for a good 10-15 seconds to start. Happens once every 4-5 months almost like it didn't preheat itself enough. No clue what's going on there.

 

[TRAV]

Yeah it is. Flow-Pro makes complete kits or you can just get pretty much any complete kit for 01-06, the front hanger is the only difference.

I'll keep the magnaflow in mind. Seems hard to find turbo-back or downpipe back exhausts for the 07.5-10 model year.

 

[white6]

Question for fellow h&s-ers

When i put new wheels on my truck when i got it, speedo stayed good. put the programmer in and told it i was running 18s on 33s and now my speedo is out 10%. Do you really have to uninstall and reinstall the tune in order to change it?? and if so should i just be telling the programmer stock wheels??

Also, since putting the display into 'night mode' it will not go back to day mode. i have to keep adjusting the brightness in the 'night mode' setting for day vs night. anyone else have this?

 

[the_real_wild1]

You can adjust the tire size easily in the menu. I had to adjust mine a few times to get it so the speedo was correct. No need to download anything more. On my truck the night/day mode work off the automatic headlights. It was a pita so now I have the brightness set to the same level. It would go into night mode when I turned on the wipers, which sucked in the day.