Holy fawk-----h+s programmer

crazy_wheeler

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Ric it allows you to turn the backup camera on without needing to be in reverse. A front seat passenger can also view a DVD while driving down the hwy. We all know the driver would watch cause that's against the rules. Changes to destinations or directions can also be made on the Nav without needing to be in park.
 

jaredszakacs

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glad to hear you are enjoying it! another option for you dodge boys and it is by far the superior programmer is EFI LIVE!!! had it in dmaxes for years and have been amazing and supposedly they work awesome on the dodge as well and are more user friendly then the smarty and H&S. I do a a lot of H&S here and love the product it really is great but just letting you know of another completely custom chip that is custom built around YOUR TRUCK not a Generic tune! So do some research look at EFI live tunning for the dodges some of you guys looking at new chips may wanna take a look at these and google some efi dmaxes and see the capabilities!!!
 

MATTIAC

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Yea like luke said, the head gasket on the 6.7 is a weak point, i know first hand.

the downpipe is a PITA for sure, either drop the tranny support or get good blades and cut it in half.

EFI live is great as well, but I find H&S has brought the 6.7 to its max potential with minimal bolt on. already on hot tune you will drain your rail pressure, so any more and its no good. efi live is great for the guys who build their trucks for full fuel injector mods.
 

Longhorn

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what you talkin' 'bout willis???? Don't think i've heard of this???

Yes, as mentioned, you can buy a code from H&S that will unlock your factory NAV options so that you can enter in addresses while out of park. This is what I bought it for and it now functions as a Garmin would. An additional option included in this is that you can also watch movies while in motion on the in-dash screen. This is NOT what I bought it for...too busy texting to watch movies LOL
 

Longhorn

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The newer 6.7 cummins are notorious for popping head gaskets on hotter tunes, solution is head studs and/or external waste gate. I plan on doing both. And if your head gasket doesn't let go your stock turbo will. Seems to be mid 30s for boost pressure is all they can handle before they become a ticking time bomb.

Another note, the new dodges are EXTREMELY sensitive to voltage drops during tuning downloads, I learned the hard way. I ended up having to ship my PCM and minimaxx to H&S to be recovered. Keep the radio off, u connect off and don't open any doors and have the truck up to operating temp. Might even be worth while to put a trickle charger on the batteries while doing the download.

I've been fairly happy with my minimaxx and delete setup on my 2012 but today for no rhyme or reason the truck decided it wasn't gonna start:confused::headscratch3: (after I had run it for a few hours). No idea what caused it but its almost like the minimaxx couldn't communicate with the PCM. Ended up on the phone with H&S tech support (who ROCK by the way, these guys know their product and how to troubleshoot it) and I disconnected the batteries and PCM connections for about 1/2 an hour, hooked everything back up and the truck fired up like nothing happened. Its back to normal now but I can't help but wonder if its gonna do it again. I have had the minimaxx freeze a couple of times but its easily reset with a flip of the switch on the OB2 plug, maybe it froze right when I tried to start it up? Who knows. H&S said they've never heard of my situation before.

While I agree I have heard of some guys having issues, I truly beleive its the guys that dont know what they are doing. I have a built up 08 3500 Mega with the 6.7 and have used it exclusively for pulling. We pull 25k to 30k loads with it, and run hot tunes on it. Never an issue. Chips/programmers almost all brands have built in safety features that will defuel as long as you set them and use them properly. Ive been bombing deisels since 92 and have yet to burn one up or blow a head gasket. Lots of trial and error, but I do firmly beleive you can build up the stock Cummins without touching the internals of the engine. I am seeing great longevity out of them as well. Just my thoughts...
 

the_real_wild1

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I have to get in there a play a little but are you setting your defuel settings too? I can also start doing more research on it and what guys are setting everything at. I think for the time and cost head studs are worth it. 500 for the studs and maybe a few hours to put in.
 

Longhorn

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Will be putting in the dpf delete soon, but just the delete pipe........ Don't want the whole exhaust as it gets noisy and has quite a droan when working hard pulling big trailers..... I'm gettin' old and don't like all the noise :)

This is my 2nd 6.7 now and the key to getting rid of the drone is 5" pipe. My 08 pulls every day, and heavy, up to 25k on a regular day, and no drone at all. My 2012 also has 5" but I went with a better muffler and even pulling, only slightly louder than with the factory exhaust. Using only the delete pipe will force you to stick with 4" pipe and will be louder than the 5" with the same muffler.

Another thing to think about is that if you go a full turbo back system, you can keep the entire factory setup intact in case you need to re-install it for warranty issues. I have had to do this only once, but did have to do it. I always suggest NOT cutting any part of the factory system in case it is needed again. Im not sure if you work on yours yourself or still take to the dealer for warranty, but something to consider.
 

Longhorn

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Wild 1:

Oh ya, please dont take me wrong, I am not saying DONT do it, only giving you my opinion that if you run the setup properly its not REQUIRED. Hey its fantastic insurance...I would never say DONT do it...

You really have to set your defuel settings based on how you use your rig. The best starting point is to set it to the factory defaults (you will never hurt your engine at this point) and then adjust from there based on your usage of the truck. For me I defuel more based on boost than I do for EGT as I seldom see high enough EGTS to harm the engine, but H&S tunes are notorious for increasing your boost to a point where head studs ARE required...Its easy to see 34-38 pounds boost and there are tunes that will hit 40 pounds. I defuel at 32 pounds boost for what its worth...but thats just me.
 

Bnorth

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Efi Live is a great product but the tuning is usually more than a do it your selfer can handle unless they really want to spend some time getting to know it. Ie not as easily a bolt on as a programmer box. That said it offers far far better control and reduces the risk of things like blown headgaskets. I am a firm believer that headgaskets are a victim of too much timing more than they are from high boost numbers. The stock turbo turns into a hot air pump at anything over about 35psi and it's well documented that studs aren't needed until about 45-50psi unless the timing is wacked.
 

Longhorn

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Efi Live is a great product but the tuning is usually more than a do it your selfer can handle unless they really want to spend some time getting to know it. Ie not as easily a bolt on as a programmer box. That said it offers far far better control and reduces the risk of things like blown headgaskets. I am a firm believer that headgaskets are a victim of too much timing more than they are from high boost numbers. The stock turbo turns into a hot air pump at anything over about 35psi and it's well documented that studs aren't needed until about 45-50psi unless the timing is wacked.

I also run all my tunes with stock timing...besides the longevity, I find I also get far better mileage. You should not be running timing unless you are running larger injectors, but at that point you better also be considering additional fuel delivery.
 

MATTIAC

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having your EGR cooler intact but turned off will save your head gasket vs removing it completely. but yes, watch your boost, and dont boost it when your not at 100% operating temp, thats another way to blow a HG. the defuel settings are great, i have mine all turned off though, because i watch my guages like a hawk. you get to know whats a decent temp for coolent, trans, EGTS and so on. the stock setting on the H&S tuners have the EGT set to low and you will constantly defuel if you dont turn it up to 1600 minimum.
 

white6

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This is gonna be a silly question, but I have been looking at the H&S Tuners for my 2009 Dmax, and can anyone tell me the major difference between the 3 tuners? As there price difference ranges by 500ish (depending where your buying them). With DPF Delete it appears they are all capable of the same HP, and the cheapest one I think said download only, where as the other two were change on the fly?

I dont haul big loads, want it to give me better fuel economy empty and towing (typically a 3place enclosed aluminum 8.5x23 with 3mtn sleds.. so 3500-4000lb sound right?)
And been told because I dont run my truck very hard that I shouldn't need gauges? That idea makes me wary..

Thanks!
 

Luke The Drifter

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This is gonna be a silly question, but I have been looking at the H&S Tuners for my 2009 Dmax, and can anyone tell me the major difference between the 3 tuners? As there price difference ranges by 500ish (depending where your buying them). With DPF Delete it appears they are all capable of the same HP, and the cheapest one I think said download only, where as the other two were change on the fly?

I dont haul big loads, want it to give me better fuel economy empty and towing (typically a 3place enclosed aluminum 8.5x23 with 3mtn sleds.. so 3500-4000lb sound right?)
And been told because I dont run my truck very hard that I shouldn't need gauges? That idea makes me wary..


Thanks!


Blackmaxx: Bigger screen/module, monitors EGTS, boost, trans temp and coolant temp. It also allows you to change power levels on the fly along with tire size, speed limiter and various other features (i.e. fogs with high beams etc etc)
Minimaxx: Pretty much identical to the blackmaxx only smaller and more compact. Its nice if you don't want a big bulky module staring at you all the time
XRT Pro: Basically the same as the Blackmaxx and Minimaxx but with out the digital screen (you'll need gauges from elsewhere)

Gauges are a must with any aftermarket programming and with the blackmaxx or minimaxx everything is displayed in one convenient spot. Plus it allows you to monitor your truck's performance and set defueling levels on boost and EGTs.

Personally I'd recommend the minimaxx, its compact and works great!
 

white6

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Thanks so much Luke! That's the one that I had picked to buy(I was thinking), but like I said I didn't fully understand it all. I agree gauges are important, just undecided on pillar gauges or mounting the h&s unit. Will have to see how big it is in person i suppose.

Any suggestions on retailers for this product? Pricing you've seen? I'm up in Fort Mac (Northern AB) but dont mind having stuff shipped to me or what not.
 

MATTIAC

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Here is my black maxx mounted in my triple gulags pillar

one.jpg
 

the_real_wild1

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The mini max is really small. I thought wtf when I first opened the box. I think it is actially smaller then my cell phone. I can take pics of it mounted if you want. I am happy with the choice. It was either that or the pro. I prefer being able to adjust on the fly and having it visible so I went with it. Got a bunch of defuel settings done. Have one issue with it I will have to figure out. Under full throttle it pulls hard then skips for a split second. Might do it a few times depending on how long the pull is like pulling out on the highway.
 

white6

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Ya if you have pictures of it mounted that'd be great. Even the black maxx isnt as big as I was expecting. I'm looking to do this in the next month or two if it works out financially :)
 
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