I have 09 m1000 with v-force 3 reeds,speedwerx y-pipe and can,side vents,and 2 vent holes cut in air box which starting to think was a mistake. sled has stock clutching,works alright but really bogs and stutters when i slack off and then lean back into the throttle. I like boon docking and climbing so an all around set up that really makes this sled rock would be nice.I also have koso pyro. tried a high flow air intake but exhaust temps went to 1300 and over real easy so took it off again and back down to about 1250 hottest.would like to stay away from pipe and boondocker if possible. will a higher engagement on primary help or is it a secondary thing dont know where to turn as dealer is of no help my dog knows more. help from those who know would be greatly appreciated. half my rides are in mcbride and half on flat lands of alberta. sled only has 600 miles and already ate a belt. dont seem like many miles to me.
help with 09 m1000
- Thread starter dozer
- Start date
0neoldfart
Active VIP Member
You need a fuel controller to correct the driveability issues, check your belt side clearance, deflection, and alignment for the belt issue. EGT temps mean nothing, they are relevant to probe position - read your plugs and piston wash to determine if you are safe. A good upgrade to the secondary is an RKT torsional conversion with a straight 36 helix - will work very well and you'll have cooler clutches too.
- Thread starter
- #3
have been checking plugs all along good tan color without high flow air horn. grey with it on so removed it. how do i read piston wash ? if i really need a controller might as well pipe it too. so what else do i need or need to do without breaking the bank
rigrat
Active VIP Member
Probably wouldn't hurt to check fuel pressure just in case it is low.
- Thread starter
- #5
rigrat
Active VIP Member
Minimum 42 psi seems to be what a lot of people consider a minimum but there is a fair bit of info regarding fuel pressure if you check this and other forums.
0neoldfart
Active VIP Member
Dozer, you are looking for a thumbnail sized spot around the intake and transfer ports where the carbon has been "washed" off the piston crown. The funny thing about reading plus and piston wash is most people just do a wide open throttle test, and don't consider the low and midrange RPM's and load. Most M1K's burn down at part throttle openings as the timing is advanced during powervalve opening. An APV cable can stretch and cause heat to "back up" into the cylinder. This is one of the reasons I run STM valves (progressive opening with exhaust pressure) and a fuel controller. Some y-pipe / can combinations are simply not safe with stock mapping, and quite frankly, CAT's mapping and subsequent flash updates leave a lot to be desired. My 07 ran better when it was new - I only added the fuel controller and pipe set to fix what was f*cked up on the first recall flash update. If I were in your shoes, I'd run the PC3 fuel controller with an SLP pipeset - the map is preloaded if you purchase from SLP. Anything with BMP badging I'd stay away from - the promises are huge, the disappointment even larger.
- Thread starter
- #8
mid range is for sure where it runs hottest around 5-5500 rpm thanks for info on piston wash, have to check that. don't know anything about progressive opening exhaust valves first question how much and how easy to install. does speedwerx have decent single pipe also what makes pc3 better than boodocker no preference but have buddy with boondocker so he could be help.
0neoldfart
Active VIP Member
STM valves are simple bolt on - might want to order from 2koolperformance.ca - I think around $400. The PC3 box is better in the sense that it has more RPM range - the BD box adjusts the map @ 3000, 5000, 6500,7200,7500, and 7800 RPM only, where the PC3 maps in 50 RPM increments. Speedwerx single pipe works well, but the fit and finish is no where near SLP's, not to mention that the PC3 is loaded with the SLP map, so pretty much a plug and play setup.
- Thread starter
- #10
cat pride 2009
Active member
Hey guys i dont now near as much as you guys do about the guts of the sled but on my 09 m1000 im running a speed werx y pipe and single it fits great looks amazing with it ceramic coating not just the regular black slp pipe i also hava djustable dalton weights in my primary and a straight 36 helix in my secondary i also run an aem air/fuel gauge and a pure logic fuel control.
0neoldfart
Active VIP Member
FYI, the SLP pipe comes ceramic coated - pipe, y-pipe, and silencer - all of it. I'm not saying speedwerx isn't a good option, either - I know several guys who run thier setup with good luck, but all run a fuel controller.
1ofeach
New member
If looking into fuel contollers the pc5 is avialable for the 09 m1000 at 2coolperformance, self adjusting,worth looking into
0neoldfart
Active VIP Member
They are somewhat self adjusting - you'll still need to create a baseline map.
cat pride 2009
Active member
I also run a fuel control i use the much easier to use pure logic it has alot less mapping. I am by no means a wise at these kinda thing sthats why i went with the pure logic over the boone docker box.
05blazerboy
Active member
I hate people that jump into threads, but I started a thread with my problems on my '07 M1000...seems like it's about the same. Really ripped up top, but the low-midrange really really sucked. When I got off the throttle it wanted to overfuel and idle until it burned it out, which makes turning back up a hill nearly impossible! I've got a speedwerx single pipe, stock y-pipe, SLP airbox upgrade, and aftermarket clutch kit. My secondary recently got stuck engaged so I'm not sure if i have a broken spring, or diamond drive issues. Love the cat over my old XP so far though, but only have an hour or two on it before these problems. Hope the controller cleans up the bog, but any ideas on the clutch problem? Its still in gear as we speak. Thanks
Terry
Terry
0neoldfart
Active VIP Member
Terry, it sounds as though the sliding half is hanging up on the bushing. If it is, you will need a new cluch, as I'm pretty sure the bushing isn't a serviceable part. When you say you have a clutch kit, is it a torsional conversion or just a different helix and / or spring? I've seen some torsional kits that were installed incorrectly, and the plastic spring guide was left in by mistake... As far as the overfueling, on the 07 M1K you will need to remove fuel from the bottom end with a BD box, especially if you had the first 08 reflash from Cat. The Attitude, Pure Logic and Techlusion fuel controllers will not allow you to remove fuel from the map, only add it. Good luck, hope this helps somewhat.
cfowler
Member
Any idea why the over-temp occured when running the high flow intake? Was it the speedwerx intake? Did you get it solved?
Thx
Catman10
Drinking the Doolaid
Anytime you get more air in the system you need more fuel, or it will run lean causing a rise in exhaust temps. Which ever one of you boys that saw your plugs go from tan to light grey best be sticking a light down the holes or pull your exhaust off and inspect the pistons, I suspect there may be a problem shortly down the road! I know been there done that. Keep in mind there is one cyl that runs hotter than the other, I believe the mag side is the hot one so check both. For the record I run a fuel controller (boondocker) and I love it, cleaned up my sled big time. I pulled my exhaust off last week and looked at the pistons and they look like new. I dont run my temps over 1250 at any time cuz I like to stay on the safe side. Hope this helps.
cfowler
Member
Thanks a bunch catman!
Obviously, the rising temps were due to not using a controller.
Im just getting setup with the speedwerx pipe & y-pipe, jaws can, high flow intake and power commander alont with appropriate clutching mods. I hope this helps unleash the beast.
Cheers,
Chris
Obviously, the rising temps were due to not using a controller.
Im just getting setup with the speedwerx pipe & y-pipe, jaws can, high flow intake and power commander alont with appropriate clutching mods. I hope this helps unleash the beast.
Cheers,
Chris
Similar threads
