Help My Side x Side is Sputtering and Stalling Out

[Snow Bunny]

My 250cc hammerhead dune buggy just had a new motor put in and now when we drive it, under any kind of load or short drive down the trail it starts to sputter and stall out. Any advice as to what this could be would be helpful. The mechanic I brought it too to put in the new motor is telling me that this is to be expected in the break in period, but I'm skeptical since I should be able to drive it more than a km down the trail without it sputtering and stalling out. I am so mad to have spent money to get it rebuilt and it runs worse than when I first brought it to him with the smoking problem.

 

[TRAV]

I've never seen anything like that expected during a break in period... Does it restart right after or does it have to sit for awhile? Any other problems? And is it a 2 stroke or 4 stroke?

 

[Toyboy]

Almost sounds electrical. Maybe something not back together quite right after the rebuild/replace? Was it a brand new motor? Did he change the shipping oil out of it? I have seen some try to run with the peanut oil still in them and they won't rev up and run like chit.

Try ATV Spruce Grove or Gateway Powersports they are some what familiar with most of the off brands.

TB

 

[kbrunlees]

sounds like a plugged float bowl or an improperly adjusted float, but the question asked was does it start right away. Will it idle for a period of time fine, and then die when you try to accelerate. Need more info.

 

[Snow Bunny]

Thanks for the info. Here are some answers to your questions. It is a four stroke. It starts back up almost always after the stall. It will idle perfectly fine and like you said kbrunless it will then stall out on the acceleration. There was only one time when we had driven it down the trail and it sputtered and stalled out and needed a bit before it started again. We also noticed that the oil level was way too high cause it had gas mixed in it. He said he did an oil change.

 

[kbrunlees]

Do you have to choke really high to get it start?, if it is sputtering on acceleration but idles right away if you let off the gas, I would say the accelerator pump is shot or plugged, Also check between the carb and motor check for loose bolts or a cracked boot. Is the spark plug new? if the gap is incorrect it will literally blow out the spark, weird I know, If the engine is not connected to the drive does it rev up fine? If the mechanic who installed this new engine told you everything was fine did they actually test it? You might also check the color of the spark by pulling it and resting it on the engine. it should be blue, if it is yellow you may have a bad magneto. You said it was a new motor, what was taken off the old motor? or was it complete? So many questions, I am nosy that way.

 

[Snow Bunny]

Kbrunlees, the buggy does not have a choke, it is electric. Is the accelerator pump on the carburator itself. My hubbie is planning on taking the carb off and inspecting it and cleaning it out. I guess he found that the carb actually wasn't even properly put on right, it was very loose. The mechanic told me he put a new carb on it, but my hubbie severly doubts that too cause it looks like the old one. I have tried new spark plugs that have been gapped by myself previously and nothing seems to change. We can try disconnecting the engine from the drive and see if it still revs up, and also maybe try the spark plug thing. Although I would think it would be hard to see a color, i usually just see a spark. It is not a whole new motor, I would say mostly the top end was redone, new pistons, rings, cylinder, valves. I have to double check the work order but I think that was the basics. I seriously doubt they tested the machine after the rebuild. It ran and they were happy. I went to pick it up and I could barely get it off the drive way without it sputtering and stalling out. I wouldn't take it home until they fixed the problem. It then sat for another 2 months in his garage. He claims he put a new carb on and re tuned it but there was no change in the previous problem as I found out this weekend in rocky, from the first time I went to pick it up. I am so angry with him and his supposed company. Can't even get ahold of anybody now when I call, using the number from his website.

 

[kbrunlees]

Electric choke? Saw those on older carbed cars, fords amc etc. ususally on one or two barrel carbs. The accelerator pump name is kind of a misnomer as what it does is provides the engine with more gas to speed it up more so that it creates more vacuum to suck more gas and so on. as you pump the throttle you should see more fuel being dumped in the throat. This is assuming that it is a conventional design and not a side draft like an SU or a mikuni carb. If you found the carb loose, chances are that is some if not all of your problems. If the kit is cheap enough, I would say rebuild the carb and let her rip. you could also try taking it apart, carefully, and clean it to make sure everything is moving as it should. It is a poor mechanic or tradesman who can't stand behind their work. I am sorry that you are getting the run around.

 

[TheMuffinMan]

Gas in the oil points to a carb float problem. When your engine is off the float bowl is overfilling and the excess fuel is running down the carb throat into the cylinder where it seeps past the rings into the bottom end contaminating the oil and bringing the level up. So the float height is either wrong or the needle valve is sticking open for some reason. As far as the sputtering and stalling, sounds like its either getting not enough air or not enough fuel. Is it a CV carb where the throttle cable actuates a butterfly valve, or does the throttle cable actually lift the slide?

 

[tex78]

Ya but if it rich ( with out running gas past the bowl into oil) if its missing and not burning it all will over fill the oil too

And yes the chinko quads have a elect choke.
Same motor as my daughter's quad.

I can look at it.

sent from my htc

 

[Snow Bunny]

It is a CV carb. The motor is a cf moto 250. My hubbie will try taking the carb apart carefully and clean er up. He has done one before but a long time ago. I have the option of buying a new one for like 150 bucks. It is very upsetting to pay money for something and not have the quality work put into it like they say they did. Oh well, live and learn. Thank you for all the helpful advice.

 

[Mike270412]

Where did u get the work done?Local around the Grove area??Should let us know so no one else gives this lowlife money for nothing.

 

[Snow Bunny]

Where did u get the work done?Local around the Grove area??Should let us know so no one else gives this lowlife money for nothing.

He used to own Hammerhead in Acheson but that went bankrupt and now he owns a company called Huvur. They sell different types of side x sides. He doesn't have a shop or anything, he stores the machines in a warehouse and does service work out of his garage in edmonton, on the west end.

 

[Toyboy]

If that is who I think it is, he is no mechanic he used to be the salesman/part owner (real big talker) and i would have a tough time thinking he could remove an engine nevermind hooking one back up.

TB

 

[Snow Bunny]

If that is who I think it is, he is no mechanic he used to be the salesman/part owner (real big talker) and i would have a tough time thinking he could remove an engine nevermind hooking one back up.

TB

Actually you are correct. I was speaking to him on the phone and such, his mechanics are his younger brother and some other dude. He would tell me what the mechanics did. He never actually did the work. However he did leave to the U.S. for three weeks without letting me know that his phones would all be turned off. I could not reach him or anyone for that three weeks to find out what the status of my buggy was. It sat in his garage for 2 months and not a single thing was different from the first time I went to pick it up. Then was told it was part of the break in period and re-tuning would be needed. To talk to his is a nice guy, but very unreliable to get a hold of. And whatever he told me his mechanics did, they did not do.

 

[Snow Bunny]

I am actually still waiting for a set of front tires he said he would order for me since May when I last picked it up. Ended up purchasing them myself because I couldn't get a hold of him and wasn't waiting any longer.

 

[Snow Bunny]

I forgot to mention that they had lost my keys for it and had to put in a new ignition, as well as broke my dipstick. Found that out at home when we went to change oil.

 

[tex78]

If u weren't so far away I'd fix it for ya. And do it right the first time LOL

sent from my htc

 

[Snow Bunny]

If u weren't so far away I'd fix it for ya. And do it right the first time LOL

sent from my htc

What a lovely offer. I wish you were closer as well. Hopefully my husband can figure it out.

 

[TheMuffinMan]

Well CV carbs can be finicky. It relies on a vaccuum created within the carb to lift the slide. If it does not have enough negative pressure the slide will be out of sync with the butterfly causing issues much like the ones you are having. Make sure the main vent line from the airbox to the top of the carb is not plugged and that it is properly attached and has no leaks in it. Usually the line will have its own little foam air filter inside the airbox, make sure it is clean. If that all looks good, check the rubber diaphragm in the top of the carb barrel, make sure it does not have any holes in it, and that it is oriented (some can be put in upside down) and seated correctly. Also be aware that airbox mods can have a negative effect on a CV carb, depending on where the vent is located. It is also critical that the carbs air jets and other vent hoses are clean and installed exactly right. Hope you guys figure it out.