Hard Core Sled Fuel Mod when doing some other small things? Opinions?

[chrishew]

Hey Guys what do you think of adding resistance to the inlet air temp sensor cicuit to richen up the ETEC's?
Hot Rod Sled Shop Ski-doo 800 ETEC Fuel Mod-NEW STAGE 1-3
I'm running a PowderFreaks head right now and was trying to use a AAEN pipe and can early last season but seemed like it was running super hot EGT and kept getting really lazy throttle response (Had to heat tape lots of the nose cone and hood). The pipe temp sensor blew out on me and I never got to welding it back in, that was the end of testing that pipe can combo for me. I was using a bit of race fuel blended in a couple of days to see if that would help but still felt lazier in the mid range than with stock exhaust and seemed to make the rave valve opening power band super on off like a motorcross bike? Pulled great at wide open though.
So not that I'm even really interested in trying the pipe again but maybe. I am looking at maybe doing a port and polish job (Linderman), y-pipe (Brand?), timing advance 1-2 degrees via Budds, and/or 3" silicon intake coupler. Just some stuff I'm thinking of and wondering if I would benefit from a bit richer map. Don't really want to pay for a PC-5 because I don't think I'll need much fuel if any extra and shouldn't have to change it up. I do have a AEM AFR gauge and probe sitting on the shelf that I was thinking of welding a pipe bung on for just to get an idea of what its running for ratio's.
I was also looking at just turboing it instead and getting all the power gains I'm looking for and then some. Don't want to spend $5000 on a turbo kit though, so I was looking used and found a guy selling a Silber on here for $2500. Probably about the most I'm looking to invest in it and would just switch the fuel controller out for a Redline Box. Don't want to deal with a machine that runs inconsistent though and would rather just see it run a bit crisper and maybe make an additional 10 hp, since I'm sure in a year or two I'll be looking for an upgrade.

 

[Bnorth]

Been trying a few small changes to mine this year too looking for a bit more. Have been considering that head and Aaen pipe but you kinda have me second guessing now lol. Are you running the stock t-stat? Could be the high egt's are driving up coolant temp and ecm is pulling timing.

 

[revbyu]

The etecs are quite lean at idle to mid range already I believe - adding a different pipe combo could make it more noticeable - not having the sensor in place could be causing a issue with losing backpressure in pipe - u have alot of variables happening so would maybe start going back to stock pipe and seen want happens - thought power freaks head was suppose to give better cooling - but like Bnorth said your ecm could be retarded your timing because of high temp or maybe detention !!

 

[chrishew]

I took the pipe off as soon as the sensor blew out so only ran it down the trail back to the truck without the pipe temp sensor. I had my stock mid pipe in the truck because this AAEN pipe was actually a warranty replacement for one I bought for my Polaris that repeatedly blew holes and split welds open. He said the new ones were made with thicker material and would send me a new one as a replacement for my Skidoo for my troubles, maybe still has a few quality issues? Only had about 5-6 rides on it when the temp sensor bung let go. Powderlites Dave in Sicamous did a pretty good job tig welding up the Polaris one a few times for me so will probably get him to touch this one up and re-enforce a bit to try it again. Maybe add a 2nd bung for my AFR?

I wasn't sure if the pipe or the AAEN can (temp sensor holder is just a nut welded to the outside of the can?) was causing it but definitely felt like it was pulling timing. Has ran better than stock with the head and stock pipe and MBRP trail can now, not huge gains from the head but a clicker at least and better midrange. No I'm not running his tstat yet but might do that this year. Didn't keep a really close eye on the temp graph but think itsits at 4 bars most of the time. Does seem to run a bit hotter coolant temps now because I think the billet head is heat transferring better than stock.

 

[kidinloghouse]

ran into the same thing as you running the aaen pipe. i had an aaen pipe, bondi box. 2.5 degree's of timing and a diamond s mesh hood and intake. my freeride was really lean at elevation. and melted my nose cone bad at sea level. i checked it out on buds and had a 30% knock correction. and had detonated the pto spark plug almost out. i was mixing 110 in it and a resister from billy howard for the engine temp sensor. got me through drag race season. and i installed the hrss resister for the air temp sensor before my spring trip to chetwynd and it didnt skip a beat for those three days of riding. i have since installed an rktek drop in piston kit, cut head and a thermastat from terra alps. and it didnt skip a beat on me last winter.

 

[takethebounce]

Been trying a few small changes to mine this year too looking for a bit more. Have been considering that head and Aaen pipe but you kinda have me second guessing now lol. Are you running the stock t-stat? Could be the high egt's are driving up coolant temp and ecm is pulling timing.

Have you called BigJohn about his Rave mod? It will help that mid range lean spot.

 

[chrishew]

Hey Kidinloghouse I remember talking with you a couple seasons ago about how the AAEN pipe was working for you. I was hoping it would be fine at our elevations but these sleds are bang on with there temp and elevation correction so it does just run too lean with the pipe I think no matter how you slice it. I like the idea of throwing some extra fuel at it anyway before making any adjustments to my timing. Glad to hear you've had luck with it so far, even if only for one trip. Are you using the AAEN double core silencer can as well?

ran into the same thing as you running the aaen pipe. i had an aaen pipe, bondi box. 2.5 degree's of timing and a diamond s mesh hood and intake. my freeride was really lean at elevation. and melted my nose cone bad at sea level. i checked it out on buds and had a 30% knock correction. and had detonated the pto spark plug almost out. i was mixing 110 in it and a resister from billy howard for the engine temp sensor. got me through drag race season. and i installed the hrss resister for the air temp sensor before my spring trip to chetwynd and it didnt skip a beat for those three days of riding. i have since installed an rktek drop in piston kit, cut head and a thermastat from terra alps. and it didnt skip a beat on me last winter.

 

[chrishew]

I saw his posts over on Dootalk about the Rave Cut. Just thought he was doing the same cut that would need to be done for a big bore but might be worth a chat with him about what changes he makes and how it helps with lean midrange? Thanks for reminding me.

Have you called BigJohn about his Rave mod? It will help that mid range lean spot.

 

[kidinloghouse]

i did 5 days in vale last february, as well lotsa trips down the track for 660 feet last spring. get the fuel mod and go from there.

the change from the SHR cut raves is because the ecm holds the raves closed longer than it should to create higher pipe temps to cut down on emissions. hence the lean mid range.

 

[chrishew]

Don't know if anyone is curious but I did buy one of these Hard Core Sled fuel mods and tried running it for a couple days. One with my AAEN pipe and can and one day with the factory pipe and a MBRP can. Too rich lost power throughout and lots of midrange burbles and farts. Took the fuel mod back out (Stg 2 is waht they sent me) back out and may try the AAEN pipe once more once I get my clutch kit in but it is just really lazy in the midrange with the AAEN pipe. Possibly not making enough pipe heat by the engine not being loaded enough in the midrange by the clutching. That's why I may try it once more with clutching but I think this is a good top end pipe and might work better at sea level but I haven't had much luck with it at 5000-700 feet.

Just thought I would through a final update out there for people.

 

[kidinloghouse]

are you stock timing?, the aaen pipe makes most of it's power midrange from what i understand. mine works better loaded up. are you stock gears? i am running 22/49 with my 154 3" 7 tooth drivers. what kind of clutch kit are you running. is you pipe ceramic?, if your looking to get rid of it i may be interested.

 

[chrishew]

are you stock timing?, the aaen pipe makes most of it's power midrange from what i understand. mine works better loaded up. are you stock gears? i am running 22/49 with my 154 3" 7 tooth drivers. what kind of clutch kit are you running. is you pipe ceramic?, if your looking to get rid of it i may be interested.

Yes stock timing right now. I'm running 19/51 gears with 8 tooth doo drivers and a 3" track. Just put a DJ clutch kit in it but haven't had the pipe on it since clutching was done. My pipe is ceramic coated and I would be willing to get rid of it. Just haven't got around to posting it up for sale yet.

 

[kidinloghouse]

let me know what your looking to get out of it. i'd like a ceramic one plus i'm fond of spare parts