Got a AAEN pipe and silencer combo for my 12 800 Pro

[chrishew]

Hi Guys. I've got a 12 800 Pro with 900 miles. It has a 13.6:1 PA head , HPS can, Fire n Ice intake, and a Boss Noss kit. I bought a AAEN pipe and can combo for it this summer.
I'm planning on opening up the top end to check the cylinder skirts for cracking and the pistons for excessive slop before the winter. I pay close attention to the way my sleds run (oil ratio, plug colour, sound etc).
I would like to try running this pipe without a PCV as I only ride in Sicamous / Revy area and take it easy on the way up while burping the throttle. I've seen a few people comment that at elevation they found with the SLP pipe and can that the sled ran way too rich with the SLP PCV map and by the time they dialed back the amount of extra fuel in the map it was near factory fuel settings and others that pulled the PCV and felt it ran better without.
With the 13.6:1 head I always mix in a bit of race fuel to bump up my shell 91 to around 94-95 octane (half way through the season I started using torco accelerator instead of C12 due to the cost savings). If anything its been on the rich side with this octane on the non-ethanol plug.
AAEN also claims that with the pipe alone you do not need a fuel controller only when you install both there pipe and silencer. I don't think the silencer could make a huge difference in the engines fuel demand. What I would like to try is installing a KOSO air/fuel ratio gauge, running a healthy 95 octane race gas blend, and starting with the ethanol plug installed.
From the info I can find supposedly all the ethanol plug does is add 5% extra fuel through the entire map with no changes to timing. I want to run a air/fuel gauge anyway just because I like to be able to see if the engine is running rich or lean at all times instead of pulling the plugs to check, used to run egt's on all my previous carbed sleds.

I guess I'm curious to see if others on here think this is stupid to even try?
What kind of air/fuel ratios should I be hoping to see at part throttles and wide open?
Is the air/fuel gauge better than just running exhaust gas temps?
Will the air/fuel gauge give me a correct reading of the C16/NOS blend while I'm on the button also?
Is KOSO the preferred brand of AFR gauges and where should I weld the bung on the pipe?

Thanks in advance for the feedback
Chris

 

[chrishew]

No feedback at all guys?

 

[Ryan Verrecchia]

Well see your sled probably won't blow up without one but it might boog and rev high basically not a fun ride..the controller will avoid this and will insure that you don't hurt the engine at all..you will get better over all performance with one..so if you do get one it won't be a waste of money I personally don't like PVC because you can't tune it on the trail and if you buy the other pice for it then you would of been better off getting a boondocker controller..and for a/f gauges you can buy a new one or pick up a cheap used one...anyway it is worth the money

 

[Ryan Verrecchia]

I think 12.5 on the a/f is a good number it's too bad you bought the pipe because if you got it from BMP they can send you a map for the PCV so you don't have to do anything really

 

[007sevens]

Too many variables, you won't get a good or reliable response from anybody repeatable. If you install the air/fuel or the EGT gauge (you don't need both) you will be able to protect the engine by monitoring the gauges.

So try the pipe without the tuner and see how it responds. Other wise I suggest taking it to a snowmobile tuner to have it properly tuned.

Do your homework and don't believe everything you read on a Internet Forum. Just my two cents

 

[chrishew]

Thanks Guys.

I've thought this over for a bit now and I'm going to run a fuel controller now anyway. I guess before I was just trying to save a few $$ but even if it doesn't lean out (which isn't worth the risk anyway) I would still probably be giving up a few HPs by not giving it enough fuel in the midrange and top end. From what I've been reading the 12s aren't mapped quite as lean as the 13s but still not even close to running fat due to emission standards. With the 13.5:1 head and a full exhaust I'd rather have the adjustability to tinker with the tuning myself anyway.

I took a lot of pride in getting my old twin piped 03 800 RMK running good and mean with my own clutch setup and jetting / needle changes day to day. Tuning is half the fun for me

What kind of fuel controller do you guys recommend? I know PCV's are the most popular but I would like to make changes right on the hill based on what I'm seeing for air/fuel ratio. Also I use Mac computers and I don't think there compatable with Power Commander's program. Boondocker box or Dobeck any good? Would love to do a vipec or Boost-it but big $$.

007 thanks. I definately don't believe everything I read on the forums, just try and sift through the BS and see if a few agree on something.

 

[chrishew]

Also I know AAEN is not the favorite pipe out there but I've had great luck with his pipes in the past on a phazer and a XLT. Completely different machines but thought I would give it a try since it has a nice big power band according to DynoTech's research and ugly welds don't bother me as long as they hold.

 

[Ryan Verrecchia]

I find the boondocker box would be the best and easiest to use someone might even have a map out there for it too...you might be able to buy a used one if you want.. have fun this winter..you might have to change your clutching a bit too..