GM's Active Fuel Managment Syatem

[DaveB]

The truck is mint...just has a $h!tty 5.3 motor. On Kijiji looks like guys are asking 18-22 for a nice truck. I just can't afford the 20-30 difference right now to get into a different vehicle.

Talked to Sylvan Autopro...they can get the same motor from GM for 5300 bucks....installed for 8500. Still get the 3 yr warranty from GM. Frickin dealerships.....frickin GM's.....frick.

 

[DRD]

You run synthetic oil Dave?


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[Cat401]

If the rest of the truck is mint like you say, then spend the $8500....you should have a reliable unit for many years to come...

I am just having trouble believing the 5.3 is a poor design, My last 5.3 I had was a 2008 with 318.000Km. I sold to a family member is still running and I'm sure its got close to 400k
on it.

A have a 6.2L (I know different engine) that I use daily and it has over 345K on it....done nothing but change fluids

 

[DaveB]

You run synthetic oil Dave?


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Did dyno oil at 5000km, then synthetic at 10 and every 10k since.


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[DaveB]

If the rest of the truck is mint like you say, then spend the $8500....you should have a reliable unit for many years to come...

I am just having trouble believing the 5.3 is a poor design, My last 5.3 I had was a 2008 with 318.000Km. I sold to a family member is still running and I'm sure its got close to 400k
on it.

A have a 6.2L (I know different engine) that I use daily and it has over 345K on it....done nothing but change fluids

I hear ya, my 06 was 300,000 km with zero issues...was even on original brakes. The new car sales manager at the dealership bought it for himself...it's still running around.
I am likely gonna drop the 8500....no new quad for mama.....


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[tex78]

New motor installed is $10,550....motor is 6500 bucks, so 4000 in labor. Having a hard time with it. Doesn't even make sense to do a wrecker motor LBZ, although I like the idea, the $$ just doesn't work.

Crate motor has 3 year, 60,000k warranty. Might do 'er, run it for 2.99 more years and dump it....

Gotta think. This cuts into quad budget severe....

3 year, 160000 km warranty

sent while drinking tea's

 

[MK4TDI]

The truck is mint...just has a $h!tty 5.3 motor. On Kijiji looks like guys are asking 18-22 for a nice truck. I just can't afford the 20-30 difference right now to get into a different vehicle.

Talked to Sylvan Autopro...they can get the same motor from GM for 5300 bucks....installed for 8500. Still get the 3 yr warranty from GM. Frickin dealerships.....frickin GM's.....frick.

Could try SGI salvage in Sk. Should be able to find a 5.3 with under 100,000 on it for under 2 grand.

Another option depending on how long you plan on keeping the truck.

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[neilsleder]

Put heavy oil in it and drive till she dies! Might go for ever!


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[DRD]

Did dyno oil at 5000km, then synthetic at 10 and every 10k since.


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I thought I read something a few years ago that said the 5.3 didn't like synthetic as the cam clearances didn't like the robust chemical chains of synthetic? See if I can find it.
260k on the wife's 5.3, runs like the day I brought it home. 5/30 cheapest I can find on sale whenever the 'puter tells me to change it.

 

[DaveB]

I thought I read something a few years ago that said the 5.3 didn't like synthetic as the cam clearances didn't like the robust chemical chains of synthetic? See if I can find it.
260k on the wife's 5.3, runs like the day I brought it home. 5/30 cheapest I can find on sale whenever the 'puter tells me to change it.

What year is wife's 5.3? Does it have AFM (run on 4 cyl for mileage)?

Mine still runs fine and no codes....leaning towards Neilsleder's idea....throw some Rislone in there and run 'er 'till she dies, THEN put momo in it.

 

[X-Treme]

If you're interested, I have a shop that does these things for me. He does em all day long for 3K. Cam and lifters. BUT..... it's in Ft. Saskatchewan. If you're interested, PM me, and I'll give you some deets.

 

[DRD]

No AFM, just a poor mechanic and have to drive ol' crap, 04.

 

[tex78]

I thought I read something a few years ago that said the 5.3 didn't like synthetic as the cam clearances didn't like the robust chemical chains of synthetic? See if I can find it.
260k on the wife's 5.3, runs like the day I brought it home. 5/30 cheapest I can find on sale whenever the 'puter tells me to change it.

It's the new oils ( energy conservation) that has 0 zddp ( zinc e.c.t) that's the metal to metal barrier

Synthetic or not

I use and have been for years, 0w40 rotella in everything, quads, bikes, cars and diesel trucks
It's a non energy conservation oil and has lots of zddp

sent while drinking tea's

 

[neilsleder]

It's the new oils ( energy conservation) that has 0 zddp ( zinc e.c.t) that's the metal to metal barrier

Synthetic or not

I use and have been for years, 0w40 rotella in everything, quads, bikes, cars and diesel trucks
It's a non energy conservation oil and has lots of zddp

sent while drinking tea's

Shell rotella is in pretty much everything I own!


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[Cdnfireman]

I'll agree with you on a HEUI injection system or a non common rail system that fuel dilution is a real issue due to their flaws and requires more frequent changes. But so is dilution from coolant in the event of a failure in the head gasket or oil cooler. Bottom line regular sampling intervals are a better way to monitor this.

Also on a CR fuel system, especially the newer ones, fuel dilution of the oil is almost a non issue. It takes a major event to cause fuel dilution such as a cracked injector body or a hung injector. Neither of which are common unless you get a tank of poor quality fuel or run serious tuning. Either of these situations however will most likely initiate a code indicating a problem almost immediately.

I think that for all of you that believe a fresh oil change is detrimental to your engine, consider this: you should buy me enough high quality synthetic oil for a full change. I will run said oil in my truck for 6000km, at which time I will drain it into a sterilized containment vessel (that you provide of course). You can then run this oil in your engine, and since I've already taken care of all that volatility and other ickiness that new oil contains, your engine will be better protected. Graciously, I will do this for no charge.

 

[MK4TDI]

Oil threads are just like which sled is better Cat, Poo, or Doo and everyone gets in a pissing match and hurt feelings.

Change your oil every 1000 km if that what helps you sleep at night. And I'll continue to change mine when the oil analysis says so. Everyone wins.

Some good facts on oil in this thread though, not much on AFM. Shall we get back to that ?


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[DaveB]

So now that my truck is rattling....code says #5 cyl misfire, but no engine light...will it hurt it to drive it another 150km to get fixed? Or should I trailer it? Thanks to X-treme, I talked to a guy who has done lots of these and I am going to do the cam and lifters....for a lot cheaper than the dealer wants. (and yes he does a proper job, new Melling cam instead of a crappy GM one, new lifters, re-surface heads, re-gasket, new timing chain and tensioner, etc)

 

[X-Treme]

So now that my truck is rattling....code says #5 cyl misfire, but no engine light...will it hurt it to drive it another 150km to get fixed? Or should I trailer it? Thanks to X-treme, I talked to a guy who has done lots of these and I am going to do the cam and lifters....for a lot cheaper than the dealer wants. (and yes he does a proper job, new Melling cam instead of a crappy GM one, new lifters, re-surface heads, re-gasket, new timing chain and tensioner, etc)

Awesome Dave! Great to hear. They'll look after ya! Is it actually rattling, or is it the misfire making it sound that way? If it's an actual engine rattle, I'd trailer it. Don't wanna risk damage to the bottom end.

 

[DaveB]

Awesome Dave! Great to hear. They'll look after ya! Is it actually rattling, or is it the misfire making it sound that way? If it's an actual engine rattle, I'd trailer it. Don't wanna risk damage to the bottom end.

It's a lifter...chirp chirp at idle....tick tick comes and goes at cruise RPMs....not bottom end.

 

[X-Treme]

It's a lifter...chirp chirp at idle....tick tick comes and goes at cruise RPMs....not bottom end.

No. I know that. But if you start to do more damage to the top end, that "damage" (ie. metal filings) may make it down to the oil pan, and may end up damaging the bottom end.