Gen 5 freeride suspension for tech tree riding

[wkotelko]

Just got back home from a quick trip . Our group ended up riding with a local guy who took us the “ Special way in”. It was the most technical stuff I’ve ridden. No where to turn around and not enough time to pick a line.

I struggled. Gassed my self early with a few stucks and it just got harder from there.

Has anyone got their suspension dialed on the gen 5 for this type of riding. My sled feels so front end heavy and dives down like an anchor when your trying to navigate down hill, then when you need to go up I’m literally along for the ride , skis up and trench and then if you do plane up on the snow it just goes where it wants.

Buddy’s 858 was sure easy to ride hah.

So, from searching the forums there are two opinions on how to get this set up.
Let the limiter strap out with more preload on the cts and soften up the rts. Or, tighten up the limiter, soften the cts and stiffen the rts.

Next trip I’ll play with these different set ups and see what works.

What works for you guys ?

 

[greenthumb]

There's no one magic setup that works for everything. A shorter limiter will help keep the front end down, but adds ski pressure. This sort of trade off is true for every adjustment. Try middle of the road as a start work from there to suit your style. Do you have a bunch of crap strapped to your tunnel? Get rid of it.
Sounds like you had your abilities pushed and just need more braaap time. I don't mean that demeaning or negative way at all. I find once you get flustered, it's best to just take a short break and regain your composure. Trying to play keep up while out of breath, fogged goggles and frustrated just leads to more mistakes.

 

[oler1234]

Tightening the limited strap is a old school mentality when you didn’t have adjustable shocks.

Let the limiter out all the way.
Run the center shock spring in the middle
Adjust shocks to control ski lift and front end weight

As well running the springs really stiff on the front will make it front end heavy

Also clutch engagement can have a huge effect on front ski weight and transfer. Running a low engagement is good but it make it more difficult to SNAP the track loose. What this does is dig a trench but provides weight transfer and makes the front lighter.

These are the main functions, the recipe to success really is up to the guy running the machine and there riding style.

 

[sledneck__11]

Also snow conditions make a huge dif to, thats why there no one magic pony answer to this question i would park at one single climb adjust all the way soft make the climb see how sled reacts with u on it then go all they way stiff and see which worked better then find your sweet spot i run raptors but i usually pretty soft once in the good snow and fairly rigid with coming down the trail, when climbing and the shocks are soft helps keep the sled from shooting off any which direction when u hit things under the snow. Rider postion when stopping/starting is huge honestly seat time is your best friend

 

[wkotelko]

Yes definitely seat time is the main factor and one set up isn’t the end all by any means. Just need to put some time in on the hill and try different set ups.
I did put the fox race series shocks all around on it and I had them revalved a bit stiffer. I might need to revalve again or just put the stock ones back for now. I have the fox on the softest settings but still to firm . The sled is harder to ride like this no doubt.

 

[LID]

If you have the fox all around, you can play with the rebound on the shocks as well. Really big difference in the front end between going soft on the rebound vs having them firm. Especially when you valved them stiffer

 

[Caper11]

Send your shocks out to get revalved, the KYB integral adjusters that Enzo offers help with adjustment. They are the same adjusters as the doo race sled uses.
With a revalved suspension you will not need to mess with the limiter, just adjust the clickers on the shock when needed.

 

[wkotelko]

If you have the fox all around, you can play with the rebound on the shocks as well. Really big difference in the front end between going soft on the rebound vs having them firm. Especially when you valved them stiffer

I’ve played with the rebound quite a bit , it does affect the compression as well. Running them on full soft already. Might have to go with a softer spring.

 

[deaner]

I hate to say it......but the answer for this type of riding is a Polaris! Can't believe how much easier they are for technical tree riding

 

[deaner]

Would be cool to hear setup tips though. Would rather own a door from a quality standpoint, so if a guy could dial one in to handle more like a poo in the trees that would be amazing. I can make a doo go where I want, but cant believe how much easier it is on a polaris

 

[wkotelko]

Would be cool to hear setup tips though. Would rather own a door from a quality standpoint, so if a guy could dial one in to handle more like a poo in the trees that would be amazing. I can make a doo go where I want, but cant believe how much easier it is on a polaris

yeah man, deep snow in less technical terrain the doo works really good and the power is great. But, all these guys doing the YouTube; watch a guy ride trees on the Polaris then watch a guy on a skidoo. Skidoo is all over the place while Polaris points and shoots. I have not had a good chance to try a Polaris but may consider renting a 9r for a day or two next trip

 

[Bnorth]

I hate to say it......but the answer for this type of riding is a Polaris! Can't believe how much easier they are for technical tree riding

On Dec 24th you will now be visited by the ghost of Maxwell past.


But seriously the Poo and Cat chassis works so much better for tree riding and holding a line. Love that Rotax turbo power though!