Garage pad ?

[OVERKILL 19]

I'm planning on prepping my garage pad soon ....I hope. I have dug out the dirt down to the clay and brought in 3/4 crush and packed it. I'm doing a one pour design as per my Eng drawing , a "floating pad". I was wondering what guy's charge to pour, finish, cut and I would like to add a ton of hardener especially to the surface. Plus add color.

I will have the SM foam, re-bar, in-floor heat tubes and forms in place and ready for concrete. Total is 1256 sq/ft

 

[Cyle]

I would say your looking at about $2,500 to pour, finish, and sawcut that. Typically $1.25 SQ/FT, but more for hardener and color, and more because you have in floor tubes to work around, plus sawcut. I'd give you my companies number, but were in edmonton so to far away.

Your doing it right though 3/4 road crush, and rebar. Just make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing to pour and finish, to make hack jobs have started doing it lately. How thick are you doing? 6"? Probably a good idea if you plan to put anything heavy on it, and the extra concrete would only be about $1300 for that size.

 

[OVERKILL 19]

I would say your looking at about $2,500 to pour, finish, and sawcut that. Typically $1.25 SQ/FT, but more for hardener and color, and more because you have in floor tubes to work around, plus sawcut. I'd give you my companies number, but were in edmonton so to far away.

Your doing it right though 3/4 road crush, and rebar. Just make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing to pour and finish, to make hack jobs have started doing it lately. How thick are you doing? 6"? Probably a good idea if you plan to put anything heavy on it, and the extra concrete would only be about $1300 for that size .

Half the garage will be 6"s where we will park the cars etc. Then the work area will be 8" as the post lift I'm looking at calls for min 8". IMO concrete is too much $ to pour less then 6" and have it crack, hence my fourm name .

 

[Taminator]

My hubby's a very good/experienced concrete finisher. Too far to do yours, but if you want someone's input that knows a thing or two he's a good one to ask! Prep is a very important thing in getting a good floor, prep's poor (not that yours is) and it doesn't matter how good the finisher is. As far as coloring the concrete, a surface stain will give you nicer results than adding it to the mix IMO. I stained my concrete countertop and it looks awesome! Did it dark charcoal/black. Much better than if it was colored black to start with. Have seen some of the dark amber/orange/brown stains as well and they look wicked!
ps 'Overkill' is a word commonly used when describing him as well. He's 'The Arborist' on here if you want to PM him.

 

[papajake]

for a garage that size and infloor heating i would have footings and 4 foot walls poured slabs that size can shift and cause problems for your infloor heating tubes just finished my 28x30 garage did not go with slab after walls were poured i filled the inside with gravel screenings tamped every 6 inches then did my infoor pipes and rebar mountainview concrete in Didsbury are very good to deal with they have mixer trucks so you only pay what you need not by the floor area ask for Andrew he knows concrete

 

[OVERKILL 19]

for a garage that size and infloor heating i would have footings and 4 foot walls poured slabs that size can shift and cause problems for your infloor heating tubes just finished my 28x30 garage did not go with slab after walls were poured i filled the inside with gravel screenings tamped every 6 inches then did my infoor pipes and rebar mountainview concrete in Didsbury are very good to deal with they have mixer trucks so you only pay what you need not by the floor area ask for Andrew he knows concrete

I agree with ya on the footings, but I could not do that as I would have had to get too close to my big trees to pour a 4 foot wall/footing. The slab does not need as much room is why I went this way. The tube problem you speak of, is that due to the slab riding on the tubes?

 

[Cyle]

You can do color in the actual concrete mixed in the truck and/or a colored hardener. Both looks fine, and will never change. I'm guessing your talking about a colored celar? Yes, it does look good to. Hardener is a MUST if your working on it, it won't chip if you drop stuff, it takes a lot anyways, but hardener helps a ton.

A gradebeam isn't really needed, piles under the whole pad would be a lot more beneficial, and cost a lot less. I would reccommend piles under the post list to, and probably under the whole pad, probably not a problem without, but they don't cost to much, maybe 12 piles, $300 to drill them maybe $800 concrete. 4" of concrete done right will carry a 50k tractor without cracking though. Rebar and your base are huge parts. If your using a regular plate tamper 2" at a time, 4-6" of fill packing with a bobcat. Doesn't matter how thick you pour it, a poor base without piles and it will crack. The nice thing about piles, your whole base could settle a foot, and your floor will be fine, the piles will hold it up.

Just make sure you take your time and do it right, and get finishers who know what they are doing. Seen a driveway being poured today, they didn't even have a packer the sand was loose (not like you can pack sand much anyway), and they weren't lifting the steel, it sure does a lot of good in the sand (which is another dumb thing!)

 

[Puba]

If your not going with footings you better sink some piles....... Without them you may have issues down the road with a floating slab, it's not overkill it's smart.

 

[Scotty]

I'm planning on prepping my garage pad soon ....I hope. I have dug out the dirt down to the clay and brought in 3/4 crush and packed it. I'm doing a one pour design as per my Eng drawing , a "floating pad". I was wondering what guy's charge to pour, finish, cut and I would like to add a ton of hardener especially to the surface. Plus add color.

I will have the SM foam, re-bar, in-floor heat tubes and forms in place and ready for concrete. Total is 1256 sq/ft

Here's my opinion.... I built a shop on my acreage 4 years ago. I spared no expence. My shop is 50 x 30 (1500 sq ft.) Infloor heating, boiler system... not hot water tanks?, 6 inch pad, 22 12" x 12 ft. piles. SM under the pad as well. Went with a ton of hardener and color (Floorseal "French Grey"). My floor is like rock, easy to clean and looks great. I have had lots of large trucks in here and I have not had one single crack in the floor yet. Still looks like new. Drive sleds in with sharp carbides and the barely leave a scratch. Enjoy yur garage!

Here's the only decent pic I have of the floor...

Domn't skimp, do it right and you will enjoy it for years.

 

[Uturn]

Scotty, what's with the rolls on the rack behind the quad?

Garage looks nice and bright.

 

[OVERKILL 19]

Here's my opinion.... I built a shop on my acreage 4 years ago. I spared no expence. My shop is 50 x 30 (1500 sq ft.) Infloor heating, boiler system... not hot water tanks?, 6 inch pad, 22 12" x 12 ft. piles. SM under the pad as well. Went with a ton of hardener and color (Floorseal "French Grey"). My floor is like rock, easy to clean and looks great. I have had lots of large trucks in here and I have not had one single crack in the floor yet. Still looks like new. Drive sleds in with sharp carbides and the barely leave a scratch. Enjoy yur garage!

Here's the only decent pic I have of the floor...

Domn't skimp, do it right and you will enjoy it for years.

Did you pour a floating pad or did you put in footings and frost walls?

My drawings call for 12" thick by 19" footing and slopes up to desired floor depth, 6- 8inchs.
I'm kind of confused if a guy pours a floating slab then ancours it down with piles, is the slab not floating anymore.

I plan on SM under the whole floor, and I have no problem putting in the piles, I just can't rap my brain around it.

 

[Cyle]

Did you pour a floating pad or did you put in footings and frost walls?

My drawings call for 12" thick by 19" footing and slopes up to desired floor depth, 6- 8inchs.
I'm kind of confused if a guy pours a floating slab then ancours it down with piles, is the slab not floating anymore.

I plan on SM under the whole floor, and I have no problem putting in the piles, I just can't rap my brain around it.

If you stick rebar up from the piles and tie it into the pad it is not a floating pad. If you do not join the piles and pad, it would be a floating pad. Unless you do a gradebeam, you don't want to tie your pad into the piles. That isn't really a footing, it's a thickened edge, engineers like it but IMO, and the opinion of most people, it's a WASTE of time and money. If your pad is going to crack it will be where the thickened edge ends(VERY likely to get a crack there if there is ANY movement). I would NEVER do it for my own pad. No offence to any engineer, but a lot of their ideas on paper just don't work in the real world. You are much better off with a straight 6" or 8" pad with piles under the whole thing. Gradebeam could go either way. A gradebeam is to hold up your walls if your worried about settling, or have heavy things on them(no a regular 2x6 wall isn't heavy). A gradebeam is not the best way to hold up your pad, if it's sinking it will pull the rebar right out of the gradebeam, it helps a bit but not for all the money it costs, extra piles and a thicker pad are a lot better idea. And don't skimp on steel, if your worried, 5/8 bar on 1 ft centers, and the pad won't go anywhere

By the sounds of it you had a engineer design your pad? I would say your much better off talking to a few people who'd be doing the finishing for what you should do LONG before a engineer.

Scotty, that's a nice shop. You did it pretty much how I would, I just would of did less piles (unless your ground isn't to good). Really 14 would hold up that floor just fine, but yea overkill never hurts.

 

[OVERKILL 19]

If you stick rebar up from the piles and tie it into the pad it is not a floating pad. If you do not join the piles and pad, it would be a floating pad. Unless you do a gradebeam, you don't want to tie your pad into the piles. That isn't really a footing, it's a thickened edge, engineers like it but IMO, and the opinion of most people, it's a WASTE of time and money. If your pad is going to crack it will be where the thickened edge ends(VERY likely to get a crack there if there is ANY movement). I would NEVER do it for my own pad. No offence to any engineer, but a lot of their ideas on paper just don't work in the real world. You are much better off with a straight 6" or 8" pad with piles under the whole thing. Gradebeam could go either way. A gradebeam is to hold up your walls if your worried about settling, or have heavy things on them(no a regular 2x6 wall isn't heavy). A gradebeam is not the best way to hold up your pad, if it's sinking it will pull the rebar right out of the gradebeam, it helps a bit but not for all the money it costs, extra piles and a thicker pad are a lot better idea. And don't skimp on steel, if your worried, 5/8 bar on 1 ft centers, and the pad won't go anywhere

By the sounds of it you had a engineer design your pad? I would say your much better off talking to a few people who'd be doing the finishing for what you should do LONG before a engineer.

Scotty, that's a nice shop. You did it pretty much how I would, I just would of did less piles (unless your ground isn't to good). Really 14 would hold up that floor just fine, but yea overkill never hurts.

Thanks.
Red Deer City requires you to have a engineered pad over 760 sq ft. This is why I have one. Do you think I should do the pad with the thickened edge and then add the piles, then I still meet the engineered drawing and city requirements?

 

[Puba]

I wouldn't do the thickened edge, go with the piles and don't tie the rebar into the slab. And for a good laugh when the boys are over sittin in the garage having beer's watching the game you can tell them all that they are sittin on your piles :d haaaa.

 

[Cyle]

Thanks.
Red Deer City requires you to have a engineered pad over 760 sq ft. This is why I have one. Do you think I should do the pad with the thickened edge and then add the piles, then I still meet the engineered drawing and city requirements?

Engineered pad, well if you got the drawing your set. I would not go with the thickened edge, if your really worried, make the edge 8" thick, and slope it to the 6", that change is not enough to crack it. But 12" is, and is not good for anything. It is a requirement here to, but you just fill the edge with dirt before the inspection, and never had a problem.

If you have no intention to sell, you don't even need a final inspection, when you eventully did you would need an inspection, but by then, it wouldn't really matter.

The house my family is building right now, 28x32 garage floor, 9 14' 12" piles, 6" pad. There is a gradebeam, but only because it is attached to the house. 16 more piles under the gradebeam, because the whole thing is on 4' of fill, and the floor will be under 3' more of sand. Not one bit worried about it going anywhere. The piles will be holding up the whole pad, and it will never crack. Current house garage floor is about the same, many parts have been hollow as long as I can remember, and the floor looks perfect after 20 years, and it gets beat up worse then any floor i've seen. Our driveway is the same thing, no cracks, just a hole about 2" deep from droping a 1000lb jackhammer on it, it fell on the point, which is made to break concrete so.

 

[mikesky]

Hello guys,
Planning to put my garage this summer.
Interesting how much is might cost to do similar job as the poster.
Any ideas?
Thank you.

 

[ferniesnow]

Hello guys,
Planning to put my garage this summer.
Interesting how much is might cost to do similar job as the poster.
Any ideas?
Thank you.

First of all, to the best "toy forum" on the internet.

Secondly, thank you for dooing a "search" before posting a new thread. That, in itself, is pretty significant on this site.

Thirdly, more information would be nice. Size of building, amenities, etc.

The garage that overkill built was quite a project.

 

[X-it]

You are over the max of 728 sq ft for slab on grade. You will need a 4 foot foundation or grade beam pile design. Garage height, lot percentages and distance from the property line must meet requirements as well.

 

[OVERKILL 19]

Hello guys,
Planning to put my garage this summer.
Interesting how much is might cost to do similar job as the poster.
Any ideas?
Thank you.

If you are asking how much it cost to build my shop/garage, it kind of depends....how much ya do yourself etc.
I did most of the ground work, compacting the electrical and heating and I have ceder shakes on the roof which added up. I was around the $78-$80 square foot range all done......but still have stuff to do, trim around inside windows doors.

 

[mikesky]

Thirdly, more information would be nice. Size of building, amenities, etc.
The garage that overkill built was quite a project.

Thank you. I've tried to do my best in order not to post new

So I got a permit from city of Edmonton for a 22 wide and 24 long garage.
Planning to make it 9 ft tall with 8ft overhead doors.
My major concern right now is the pad. How to make it right for less (i know sounds silly)
should I go with just a regular pad or make it with a 1 ft curb?
Any comments will be appreciated.
Thank you.