Finally have enough money to seriously consider a new sled

[tex78]

Had a buddy price it out and if recall it was cris's fix it kit , and mabe that was with cylinders, and this is also 2 years ago when they first came out also

He never did it, it blew up and parked, never heard what it was going to take to get it running

 

[summit1000]

So does this look like it'd be a good kit? Sale Piston Cylinder Repair FIX KIT 08 09 Polaris 800 RMK PRO Assault Dragon | eBay It says it has an aluminum spacer. The MTNK kit is like $160 more and it has a zinc plated spacer, not an aluminum spacer. If I was going to do it, this isn't something I'd cheap out on. I'd want to put the best fix kit in it. Also, any idea how much it is to have cylinders honed? By the way, Vince and dragonweld I really appreciate the offer on helping me get it installed! If and when I actually get one, we'll have to talk further. Thank-you so much for the information and the offer to help install it!

 

[Vance Matheson]

Snowmobile 800 Polaris CFI Engine FIX KIT NEW Namura Pistons TOP END Repair KIT | eBay

This is the one you want summit1000. If it ends up you dont already have the kit installed and your cylinders are pooched its about 650 to replate and 800 for the new snowX cylinders. The snowX pistons are yamaha oem from japan and cat rings.

 

[summit1000]

Snowmobile 800 Polaris CFI Engine FIX KIT NEW Namura Pistons TOP END Repair KIT | eBay

This is the one you want summit1000. If it ends up you dont already have the kit installed and your cylinders are pooched its about 650 to replate and 800 for the new snowX cylinders. The snowX pistons are yamaha oem from japan and cat rings.

That kit is an even better deal! With 1500 miles what do you think the odds of the cylinders being shot is? Like do you think there is a good chance all is okay and it'll just be the cost of a fix kit and honing (honing and replating aren't the same thing, are they????....sorry dumb question, but I am not 100% sure).

 

[Modman]

That kit is an even better deal! With 1500 miles what do you think the odds of the cylinders being shot is? Like do you think there is a good chance all is okay and it'll just be the cost of a fix kit and honing (honing and replating aren't the same thing, are they????....sorry dumb question, but I am not 100% sure).

If the seller didnt list it as a feature, the fix kit likely hasnt been done. Cylinders should be fine, the pistons wear - the cylinders don't. Honing and replating are not the same things - hone just puts some very light scratches in the coating - replating is an all new coating on the cylinder. Nikasil is almost as hard as diamond with its silicon content so it basically doesn't wear. Unless you have a flaw in the cylinder casting or it has suffered mechanical damage of some type (impact from the rod), its probably going to be fine and not need replacing so don't worry about it, only thing you can do is lift the head off and check. Better to find a cylinder flaw in your shop than stuck on the side of the trail.

 

[Vance Matheson]

good advice from modman summit1000, find out if a fix kit has been installed and when then. inspect your cylinders now in the summer dont wait. you could take your power ports off and look in that way or buy or borrow a snake cam. and clean and inspect those power valves they gum up and like to stick.

 

[Trashy]

Good advice from Vance, about the power valves..... They are super easy to clean.

 

[tex78]

Power valves need cleaned in them all, sooner than later when they stick, good heads up for summit tho vance

 

[trench]

I see that you are located in St. Albert, I took my cylinders (2011 RMK) in to Riverside and had them honed and measured for the new pistons. They had it all done in a couple of days and it was not that much money. I never did a fix kit on my Dragon but for me the hardest part of working on that sled was getting the air box back in after taking it out, the top end rebuild is pretty simple. If you do a fix kit and have a fuel controller you should be able to get that sled working very well and be quite reliable. Congrats on the new sled, I loved mine, it handled great and I never had any issues with it.

 

[neilsleder]

Some guys say you don't need to hone a nikasil cylinder if there's no damage. I always got it done but some say it's not needed.

 

[CUSO]

It's probably a good thing to hone/de-glaze them, its supposed to make the rings seat better.

Some guys say you don't need to hone a nikasil cylinder if there's no damage. I always got it done but some say it's not needed.

 

[Modman]

It's probably a good thing to hone/de-glaze them, its supposed to make the rings seat better.

Its a toss up and lots of people in both camps on this one.

On nikasil, unless you are using a diamond hone, it won't do a lot to the coating IMO. Don't use a diamond hone, it will remove too much of the coating, its only paper thin as it is so you don't want to "remove" any of it. Ball hone and very light pressure if you do it IMO.

Honing (in the traditional sense) was true more on the old iron sleeved cylinders before where both the rings and cylinder would wear into shape together based on their same hardness.

Think of a honed cylinder (the crosshatch mainly) as a file, and the rings are just steel rings. The cross hatching will file down the highs and lows on the rings and match them to the cylinder shape/circumference. Nikasil is so hard, it doesn't need deep grooves like a traditional hone job to help file down the rings, this is why some people say its not even needed. Why bother if you're only putting in minor scratches anyway. Some say you should, its better for holding a small amount of lubrication on the cylinder wall. I see merits in both arguments but haven't seen a difference in data to support either camp.

For seating rings on nikasil, most important is to put some load on the motor so there is gas pressure behind the rings, its not the light ring tension that seats rings, its the combustion gas pressures pushing them out. this will force them outwards against the cylinder walls and force them to wear into the same shape as the cylinder circumference and therefore give you a better seal. This doesn't need to be a high RPM load, just a load with lots of varying throttle RPM to avoid excessive ring heat. This needs to happen within the first few hours of the engine start up (some say within the first few miles), after that the ring shape has pretty much been set. So don;t run it in the garage for hours before you take it out for the first test run.....

 

[CUSO]

I always see cross hatches on the cylinders from factory, so I am guessing it's worth doing again?

Its a toss up and lots of people in both camps on this one.

On nikasil, unless you are using a diamond hone, it won't do a lot to the coating IMO. Don't use a diamond hone, it will remove too much of the coating, its only paper thin as it is so you don't want to "remove" any of it. Ball hone and very light pressure if you do it IMO.

Honing (in the traditional sense) was true more on the old iron sleeved cylinders before where both the rings and cylinder would wear into shape together based on their same hardness.

Think of a honed cylinder (the crosshatch mainly) as a file, and the rings are just steel rings. The cross hatching will file down the highs and lows on the rings and match them to the cylinder shape/circumference. Nikasil is so hard, it doesn't need deep grooves like a traditional hone job to help file down the rings, this is why some people say its not even needed. Why bother if you're only putting in minor scratches anyway. Some say you should, its better for holding a small amount of lubrication on the cylinder wall. I see merits in both arguments but haven't seen a difference in data to support either camp.

For seating rings on nikasil, most important is to put some load on the motor so there is gas pressure behind the rings, its not the light ring tension that seats rings, its the combustion gas pressures pushing them out. this will force them outwards against the cylinder walls and force them to wear into the same shape as the cylinder circumference and therefore give you a better seal. This doesn't need to be a high RPM load, just a load with lots of varying throttle RPM to avoid excessive ring heat. This needs to happen within the first few hours of the engine start up (some say within the first few miles), after that the ring shape has pretty much been set. So don;t run it in the garage for hours before you take it out for the first test run.....

 

[pfi572]

I always see cross hatches on the cylinders from factory, so I am guessing it's worth doing again?

You argue about everything?lol

IMO modman is correct .

 

[CUSO]

No, I am asking an honest question, from observing something.

Take that any way you want, but if you want to start a chit show, have at er.

You argue about everything?lol

IMO modman is correct .

 

[pfi572]

Lol
Nope just observing?
Carry on

 

[LennyR]

No, I am asking an honest question, from observing something.

Take that any way you want, but if you want to start a chit show, have at er.

Tough to beat cuso in a chit show, he's completely full of it. LOL.

 

[LennyR]

Oops, sorry I slipped. LOL.

 

[CUSO]

OH, Yu are back for more humiliation buddy???

Tough to beat cuso in a chit show, he's completely full of it. LOL.

Well now back to the current flow of events... (SANS LENTARD)

I honestly don't know. Did some searches, and some say it's not good to do, just because the softer abrasive lodges in the cylinder scratches, and does more harm than good to rings. I read scotch brite by hand seems to take the glaze out, but not leave a harmful residue.

What do the re-nic-coaters do?

 

[pfi572]

Any I have done are completely striped and re- plated.
Have cleaned a few cylinders up with muratic acid if not to bad and only some aluminum piston on walls.
Quoted

"Nikasil is short for Nickel Silicon Carbide. Silicon carbide is a very hard ceramic (much harder than steel) that can be dissolved in nickel. The nickel solution can then be electroplated onto the aluminium cylinder bore. The piston rings will then rub off the exposed nickel, leaving a very hard layer of silicon carbide to protect the aluminium piston from direct contact with the aluminium cylinder. With this setup, the engine tolerances can be much tighter for better performance. The cylinder must be re-plated after it is re-bored, but Nikasil is extremely durable, so the cylinder does not need to be reworked as often as an iron or chrome cylinder.[3]"