perhaps if there is an airlock. The stuff would level itself out as the inner ribs don't mate inside the end.
If this was gonna work wouldn't you need to fill the entire cavity of the shaft to ensure it got to both ends and was balanced? Or just hold it vertical and fill the drive side? If the shaft is indeed to thin as has been proposed would filling one side just move the twist (failure) point? Or moving away from the end there would be sufficient integrity? Not an engineer. Just a couple questions. Curious.
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Would a 2 part epoxy have the correct viscosity to level in a small area between the ribs or would it just level mostly in one channel and harden?
You can get epoxies to have an open time of a half hour. I am sure if there was an imbalance it would be minimal.
Makes sense. I was just thinking of a gel. Didn't think it would have the hydrostatic pressure to level with such a small intersticial (spelling) space.
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I guess yo could inject an equal amount of CC's into each of the 3 spaces with a horse syringe to be rest assured, since you probably need air holes to release anyways.
$100 bucks, pretty cheap.
Fug, if I had a '13, I'd be on the hunt for a different brand. Screw all these temporary fixes.
Done fishing. Let's go sledding !!
Fug, if I had a '13, I'd be on the hunt for a '12 and down driveshaft. Screw all these temporary fixes, put in a steel extruded driveshaft and go have fun !!
Done fishing. Let's go sledding !!
I wouldn't even worry about "siezure potential". There are countless bearings made to run with no oil. Sealed and grease-packed.
Sent from my iPhone when I should be fishing.
from what I read the '12 steel driveshaft stub is just steel, the '13 shaft stub is an alloy made with a corrosion inhibitor to prevent the inner bearing race from seizing to the shaft since there would be no oil. I have to wonder how much oil actually gets between the shaft stub to inner race mating surface to prevent seizure, but hey, it's their story I guess. I'm sure a dab of anti seize compound would alleviate any concerns.This can't be true. Or polaris certainly would have recommended taking this precautionary action by now. Reputation and profit margins aside of course. There's my d!ckhead comment. Your right hv. Many quality bearings made for a long run life without an oil bath. Is it the actual bearing they are worried about seizing? Or shaft to sprocket? Thought they were a sealed bearing anyhow?
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from what I read the '12 steel driveshaft stub is just steel, the '13 shaft stub is an alloy made with a corrosion inhibitor to prevent the inner bearing race from seizing to the shaft since there would be no oil. I have to wonder how much oil actually gets between the shaft stub to inner race mating surface to prevent seizure, but hey, it's their story I guess. I'm sure a dab of anti seize compound would alleviate any concerns.
my thoughts as well. a few over there worried about how true the '12 shafts were compared to the '13 shaft, as any wobble on the drive end may be detrimental to the belt drive longevity.Yeah for sure. I'm not very familiar with the system but most bearing fit tight (in order to actually serve their purpose). Can't see tons of oil getting between the mating surfaces. A quality anti-seize compound would have to do the trick wouldn't you think? Personally I'd douse it in koprkote and ride. Even if I needed to torch it out in 2000 miles. At least I'd feel good about it.
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my thoughts as well. a few over there worried about how true the '12 shafts were compared to the '13 shaft, as any wobble on the drive end may be detrimental to the belt drive longevity.