Driveshaft Bulletin!!!

teeroy

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the "end cap" design clamp....Pro Clamp - Time For a Beer - SnoWest Snowmobile Forum

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d mills

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perhaps if there is an airlock. The stuff would level itself out as the inner ribs don't mate inside the end.

Would a 2 part epoxy have the correct viscosity to level in a small area between the ribs or would it just level mostly in one channel and harden?
 

CUSO

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Once the epoxy bites into the ribs, the ribs will disperse load. That shaft is super strong where the ribs are.

You would have to use a liquid epoxy, not a gel. It would self level and be balanced.



If this was gonna work wouldn't you need to fill the entire cavity of the shaft to ensure it got to both ends and was balanced? Or just hold it vertical and fill the drive side? If the shaft is indeed to thin as has been proposed would filling one side just move the twist (failure) point? Or moving away from the end there would be sufficient integrity? Not an engineer. Just a couple questions. Curious.

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CUSO

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You can get epoxies to have an open time of a half hour. I am sure if there was an imbalance it would be minimal.
Would a 2 part epoxy have the correct viscosity to level in a small area between the ribs or would it just level mostly in one channel and harden?
 

d mills

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You can get epoxies to have an open time of a half hour. I am sure if there was an imbalance it would be minimal.

Makes sense. I was just thinking of a gel. Didn't think it would have the hydrostatic pressure to level with such a small intersticial (spelling) space.

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CUSO

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I guess yo could inject an equal amount of CC's into each of the 3 spaces with a horse syringe to be rest assured, since you probably need air holes to release anyways.
Makes sense. I was just thinking of a gel. Didn't think it would have the hydrostatic pressure to level with such a small intersticial (spelling) space.

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d mills

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I guess yo could inject an equal amount of CC's into each of the 3 spaces with a horse syringe to be rest assured, since you probably need air holes to release anyways.

If it was able to penetrate like a true "fluid" it should level if a sufficient space is there.

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High Velocity

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Fug, if I had a '13, I'd be on the hunt for a '12 and down driveshaft. Screw all these temporary fixes, put in a steel extruded driveshaft and go have fun !!


Done fishing. Let's go sledding !!
 

SledMamma

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Fug, if I had a '13, I'd be on the hunt for a '12 and down driveshaft. Screw all these temporary fixes, put in a steel extruded driveshaft and go have fun !!


Done fishing. Let's go sledding !!

Ya... Brandy Floyd (rides a sponsored sled from a US dealer) was told by 'a friend' in the industry a month ago to find a 2012 shaft... . ImageUploadedByTapatalk1354607447.647192.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1354607473.283591.jpg

And here we are now with Polaris recommending a 2012 not be put in AND putting the 2012 and 2013 drive shafts on back order status. I am working on getting a 2012, but the seizure potential without an oil bath makes me nervous... Still trying to research the best fix, but not holding my breath for Polaris. I have 200kms on mine, but I believe it is a not a matter of 'if' but 'when'.
 

High Velocity

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I wouldn't even worry about "siezure potential". There are countless bearings made to run with no oil. Sealed and grease-packed.


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d mills

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I wouldn't even worry about "siezure potential". There are countless bearings made to run with no oil. Sealed and grease-packed.


Sent from my iPhone when I should be fishing.

This can't be true. Or polaris certainly would have recommended taking this precautionary action by now. Reputation and profit margins aside of course. There's my d!ckhead comment. Your right hv. Many quality bearings made for a long run life without an oil bath. Is it the actual bearing they are worried about seizing? Or shaft to sprocket? Thought they were a sealed bearing anyhow?

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teeroy

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This can't be true. Or polaris certainly would have recommended taking this precautionary action by now. Reputation and profit margins aside of course. There's my d!ckhead comment. Your right hv. Many quality bearings made for a long run life without an oil bath. Is it the actual bearing they are worried about seizing? Or shaft to sprocket? Thought they were a sealed bearing anyhow?

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from what I read the '12 steel driveshaft stub is just steel, the '13 shaft stub is an alloy made with a corrosion inhibitor to prevent the inner bearing race from seizing to the shaft since there would be no oil. I have to wonder how much oil actually gets between the shaft stub to inner race mating surface to prevent seizure, but hey, it's their story I guess. I'm sure a dab of anti seize compound would alleviate any concerns.
 

d mills

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from what I read the '12 steel driveshaft stub is just steel, the '13 shaft stub is an alloy made with a corrosion inhibitor to prevent the inner bearing race from seizing to the shaft since there would be no oil. I have to wonder how much oil actually gets between the shaft stub to inner race mating surface to prevent seizure, but hey, it's their story I guess. I'm sure a dab of anti seize compound would alleviate any concerns.

Yeah for sure. I'm not very familiar with the system but most bearing fit tight (in order to actually serve their purpose). Can't see tons of oil getting between the mating surfaces. A quality anti-seize compound would have to do the trick wouldn't you think? Personally I'd douse it in koprkote and ride. Even if I needed to torch it out in 2000 miles. At least I'd feel good about it.

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teeroy

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Yeah for sure. I'm not very familiar with the system but most bearing fit tight (in order to actually serve their purpose). Can't see tons of oil getting between the mating surfaces. A quality anti-seize compound would have to do the trick wouldn't you think? Personally I'd douse it in koprkote and ride. Even if I needed to torch it out in 2000 miles. At least I'd feel good about it.

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my thoughts as well. a few over there worried about how true the '12 shafts were compared to the '13 shaft, as any wobble on the drive end may be detrimental to the belt drive longevity.
 

d mills

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my thoughts as well. a few over there worried about how true the '12 shafts were compared to the '13 shaft, as any wobble on the drive end may be detrimental to the belt drive longevity.

That seems a trivial worry in my eyes. I have a hard time believing the 13 shaft has been balanced any more than the 12 hydroformed( if I'm not mistaken) shaft. Again I'll reiterate that I'm no expert but that wouldn't even blip on my give-a-f-o-meter. Even if there was a balance issue I'm sure the belt would hold up for let's say 500 plus miles. It seems the shafts can't. I'd rather pack a spare belt than a shaft that may fail again in 3 more miles.

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gopherchoker

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Polaris probably doesn't want people to buy the 2012 shaft due to lack of supply. If in one week more people buy driveshafts than in the last two years their supply would be exhausted. Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't this driveshaft be as big of an issue as a brake failure. IMO it's just as dangerous, and would warrant an immediate safety recall, not a fix-as-fail one. Also don't the c3 belt drive kits just run a normal bearing on a steel shaft with no oil bath. With some anti-seize compound the 2012 seizing issue would be non-existent.
 
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