Drive Shaft issue

[OnlyPolaris]

The one here looks similar to the last pics posted. If you look there is glue coming out the bleed holes but when you look at the surface of the 2 bonded parts it doesn't even look like there is glue on there. The 12 shaft looks like it will work but hasn't been confirmed yet. If they are going to break it will do it early. Try to get some miles on the sled before taking it into the backcountry. There is no connection between the sleds that had the a-arm recall and the ones with the failing drive shafts.

 

[2scoops]

I did read one guy's post that he checked his out and the glue coming out of the relief holes in the shaft was soft and he could sink his fingernail into it. maybe it's a problem with the glue itself. something to check if you have a pro anyways

That was my post and just to clarify for others the glue coming out of the relief hole is hard but around the seam is where it is soft as I was able to pick it off and smear it between my fingers. My buddy has exact same sled that I'm going to have a look at tonight and see if his is similar.

 

[tavis43]

09/17/2012 no problems yet 3.5 hours

 

[IEATSRT]

In the pictures sledwrecks submitted, you can see in the steel insert a channel for the glue. There should have been a good seam of glue caulked on here all the way around then inserted into the aluminum shaft. I see no evidence of glue in this channel on his pictures on some of the sides. I am wondering if during manufacturing of some shafts if the pieces weren't put together, then tried to apply glue through the bleed hole and get it to run down the channels. Which would explain why some sides have a bit of evidence of glue and otherds dont. Man sure looks to me like this is what happened. There is no way in the pictures posted glue was applied to the channel then inserted. Mine however, LOOKS as though the glue was applied to the channel then inserted, as there is glue coming out the seams. Not sure what to think.

 

[Staple_STI]

In the pictures only polaris submitted, you can see in the steel insert a channel for the glue. There should have been a good seam of glue pasted on here then inserted into the aluminum shaft. I see no evidence of glue in this channel on his pictures on some of the sides. I am wondering if during manufacturing of some shafts if the pieces weren't put together, then tried to apply glue through the bleed hole and get it to run down the channels. Which would explain why some sides have a bit of evidence of glue and otherds dont. Man sure looks to me like this is what happened. There is no way in the pictures posted glue was applied to the channel then inserted. Mine however, LOOKS as though the glue was applied to the channel then inserted, as there is glue coming out the seams. Not sure what to think.

Do you have pics or a link to the pics so when I look at my sled today I can see where these relief holes are. Also want to see the difference in what you are talking about location the glue was applied to

 

[IEATSRT]

Have a look at page 14 of this thread.

 

[Staple_STI]

Have a look at page 14 of this thread.

Thank you for helping my lazy ass.. I will get pics if mine is different

 

[SledMamma]

Flipped mine over for a looksy and took some pictures:



My concern is that the glue does not seem to extrude from the seam on all sides of the drive shaft (as in picture #2) and two of the sides I can't feel any excess glue. When I flip the sled the other way and look at the clutch side shaft it is glued well on 1 side and the other 3 are lacking. Also, the glue seems hard, but I can score it with my fingernail. Is this bad? Sled is a White LE 155 manufactured on August 30, 2012... Hope it wasn't one of the bad batch.

I have 70 good rippy kms in wet heavy snow on it so far and haven't had problems but I am concerned. We regularly sled in an area that is a $2600 chopper ride out...

PS- I now have a hernia from flipping it back over by myself x2 and probably won't be able to ride until the issue is sorted anyway

 

[IEATSRT]

I hate to admit it but yours looks better than mine! I never looked at all sides of the shaft nor the clutch side, but the sides I did see had evidence of glue, yet not as much as yours.

 

[+SLEDWRECKS+]

That's probly the best/easiest/quickest fix right now

The only problem is I heard some dealer's won't warrenty any altered shafts. And at 650 bones it's a kick in the nut sak !

 

[KH2110]

The only problem is I heard some dealer's won't warrenty any altered shafts. And at 650 bones it's a kick in the nut sak !

well then I guess it's nice that the dealers don't get to pick and choose what polaris will cover and what they won't

Polaris has by far the best record for quickly taking care of their customers and doing the right thing..........and I'm sure they will perform with this issue as well

 

[fredw]

this gotta be a joke correct... remember the 900 issues...

well then I guess it's nice that the dealers don't get to pick and choose what polaris will cover and what they won't

Polaris has by far the best record for quickly taking care of their customers and doing the right thing..........and I'm sure they will perform with this issue as well

 

[cs5]

Well mine has no glue at all sticking out at the seam and only a small amount coming out that little hole. After seeing the last pictures it goes in further than I originally thought so this has to be a bonding issue. I like the idea of rivets to get by but if they don't want to warranty it after I would be upset. I priced out a new shaft at 565 and I know for a fact the 12 shaft goes right in no issue. I have no problem with Polaris getting this straightened out but I don't want a chopper ride so I am sending my kid out to make laps to break in the belt and then I am going to put my fat ass on it and pin it a few times. I have a feeling with the amount of glue NOT visible on mine it is going to let go fast. 09/18/2012 is my build day.

 

[RK Tek]

We are offering a nice kit to help with this issue.. please call if interested

 

[IEATSRT]

Sorry to hear this, one other recent shaft failure posted by user "only polaris" to come to light on this thread was the 18th as well. However, perhaps that says nothing about when the shaft was assembled?? The general consensus on rivets is... it's a bad idea. Can lead to stress fractures that will weaken the shaft, not to mention your running your risk of losing your warranty as you are aware of. If you do it... I would at least talk with your dealer first in the event there is a recall/warranty to ensure they will warranty your altered shaft. Perhaps RKTek would give you piece of mind but that is all I bet they will guarantee. Nothing against them at all as their intentions are great... but as of yet their kit is untested, and we are still not sure exactly what it is. And who is to say your shaft won't hold without any modding? Again their intentions are great and if it gives someone piece of mind and holds well then its $85 dollars well spent. You bet ride it close to home, if it fails it fails...

 

[IEATSRT]

yup. lift back of sled, pin throttle, drop on ground.

GGB can sound test fail - YouTube
Kinda like this? Lol. Just keeping things light!!

 

[cs5]

GGB can sound test fail - YouTube
Kinda like this? Lol. Just keeping things light!!

That made me laugh out loud, that's the kind of thing I would expect to break something from.

 

[Graveler]

well then I guess it's nice that the dealers don't get to pick and choose what polaris will cover and what they won't

Polaris has by far the best record for quickly taking care of their customers and doing the right thing..........and I'm sure they will perform with this issue as well

LMFAO that is by far the best backhanded comment I've heard in a long time. take another big gulp of your Doo-aid....

 

[Chrisco]

Well I did rivet thing I could care less about the 585 for the new shaft, Whats my dealer going to say no........ Ya right bad move for him.. anyway Im not going to take the chance with my customers and were we ride its more than 585 to get out so Ill be the guinea pig on this one. Got one done now and will do another one on the weekend and if anyone is going to the hills this weekend stop by the shop and Ill pop some in.

 

[CUSO]

A split collar with a hex inside would be the ticket. Inside flange on the end to prevent splined shaft from working out would even improve it.

I think a hollow rivet's low shear strength will not last. Judging by the thin wall, it will still fail, it's like riveting tin foil.

All they had to do is just make the end an 1/8" thicker for the last inch, just enough to run past the inner ribs.

Someone will get their walking papers.