I dont believe that is the case because this shaft was tested for a couple of years with no problem, something changed between then and now. With the amount of engagement between the two parts I don't think any amount of bonding is going to hold it, with that little amount you are totally reliant on the bond to transfer the power when the bond should only be holding the two parts together. At least thats how I see it.
Drive Shaft issue
- Thread starter sledneck_03
- Start date
I dont believe that is the case because this shaft was tested for a couple of years with no problem, something changed between then and now. With the amount of engagement between the two parts I don't think any amount of bonding is going to hold it, with that little amount you are totally reliant on the bond to transfer the power when the bond should only be holding the two parts together. At least thats how I see it.
maxwell
Active VIP Member
someone should machine a billet locking collar. simple bolt on fix.
teeroy
Active VIP Member
I'll bet that's exactly what RKTek is doing. will be a 2 piece bolt together deal, hex shaped on the inside to stop the aluminum from deforming if the glue is bad. thing is, if the glue is bad and can wiggle even a tiny bit what is going to stop the stub from moving sideways and out of the extruded tube? the stub cannot be made to fit tight inside the extruded shaft because there has to be a space for the glue to do it's thing.
What do you think the cost on that will be? Haha. Or a mass produced shaft from a 12. Or a home fix. Prob doesn't need a beaver stamp to work.
teeroy
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he posted on SW that it would be under 90 bucks and he is supplying 2 for each shaft, one "fix" on each end
If it works cheap fix till something better comes along. Thanks T.
maxwell
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even if tthey werent failing wouldnt be a bad idea for high HP guys anyways.
when i did the 174 and 3" tracks big bores etc on the xp i still had all the shafts welded as there is alot more strain on that driveshaft with the big flippers and more hp
when i did the 174 and 3" tracks big bores etc on the xp i still had all the shafts welded as there is alot more strain on that driveshaft with the big flippers and more hp
teeroy
Active VIP Member
yeah man, sucks that they don't have it easy like we did with the 'doo, some spot welds and bob's your uncle. but I think Kelsey's fix will give some pro owners a little peace of mind if nothing else. I feel their pain. I did read one guy's post that he checked his out and the glue coming out of the relief holes in the shaft was soft and he could sink his fingernail into it. maybe it's a problem with the glue itself. something to check if you have a pro anyways
maxwell
Active VIP Member
should contact the mythbusters. they lifted a car with some glue.
No pro here....I bleed yellow.....but my ridin bro's got em. Some piece of mind would be good before heading into long line country.....
They also floated a lead balloon.....
teeroy
Active VIP Member
and one with duct tape...lol.
fredw
Active VIP Member
this has to be the best thread yet, pictures were priceless... on the same note at least we had a easy fix and after a few shafts went down, a few tac welds and shafts were better than new
we are thinking of going to quatz this weekend and i just found out three of the guys have new poos, is there anyway to see the problem before we unload, getting a little concerned
we are thinking of going to quatz this weekend and i just found out three of the guys have new poos, is there anyway to see the problem before we unload, getting a little concerned
ditto. wasn't waiting for BRP to decide that enough had failed that they should take action. we did 5 of them and rode the whole season without worry. never got a warranty shaft until the following xmas.
maxwell
Active VIP Member
yup. lift back of sled, pin throttle, drop on ground.
scrfce
Active VIP Member
Uhhhgg $hit mines 09/17/12
+SLEDWRECKS+
Active VIP Member
Chrisco
Active VIP Member
Why not just put 2 steel rivets on every flat bar untill a new shaft comes out.
maxwell
Active VIP Member
Oh man! Hate to say it but they will all fail if not fixed that's a brutal design.
maxwell
Active VIP Member
That's probly the best/easiest/quickest fix right now
IEATSRT
Active member
I have 230 miles on mine no issues with shaft or belt. First 100 were monitoring rpms as it was over reving due to lower elevation than clutched for but hit wot in short bursts, wanted to give the engine a good break in, while adhering to belt break in procedure. After that changed weights to 10-66's and rode her like it should be rode. Attached a few pictures of my drive shaft. Looks to me like mine has significantly more glue than others that I have seen with broken shafts... I don't see any adhesive in the pictures a few posts back. Glue is also good and hard. I believe this is a manufacturing defect, as opposed to engineering fault. Machine must have ran out of glue and someone was on lunch break. They have already admitted to some gluing problems with the a-arms. Sled was manufactured Aug 30 but that says nothing about when driveshaft was manufactured I guess. I'd have a good look at the shafts and see if the glue has excess coming out the holes and seams, as you can clearly see on mine.
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