ponyboy
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1 " on the main frame .... 3/4 in side .065 wall imo
Cromoly Running Boards
- Thread starter ~Rowdy~
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- #82
Thanks! I don't know anything about welding, cromoly, nothing. So if I take this on I will be kind of flying by the seat of my pants. Hoping not to screw up tooo bad.
tex78
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How come such a bonner on the cromoly??? I have seen the cromoly arms on the trailing arms break real easy....
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- #84
Cause I've seen a guy with them on a sled that was visiting me over the xmas holidays and they held up to him good.
What else is there out there that is tubular and may be better?
ponyboy
Active VIP Member
you must have a friend that could show you where to start .. mig welding is easy , but you don't want to practice on CM .. practice on some junk , get the MiG set up so you are comfortable with it .... measure 3 times ..cut once !! CM is no different than mild steel . IE you will not see a change while welding either steel . CM is more money , lighter , and stronger . the hardest thing will be fit and finesh so remember measure 3 times , cut once :d
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- #86
I've done a bit of welding before, and know how to solder, but will for sure practice on some crap first, haha. Working in the trades I'm sure I can find a guy that will show me the ropes for some beer and food.
thanks for the tips and tricks! I learned the measure 3 times cut once when I built my fence at my house haha. Screwed up on post #1 and never again.
ponyboy
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have fun ...... girls make good welders:d
maxwell
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- #89
YES! Thats what I want to do! Minus remaking the whole tunnel. Who's sled is that?! I am going to need to enlist help for this project! I have skills...but not those skills
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Showtime
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That looks super slick but man thats some precise work....
HRT Offroad
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- #92
shoppingcart111
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I would go with aluminum then you can mate it to the tunnel.
These boards are carbon fiber tube. Very strong and light, plus hold no snow. We built these for our mod sled as a 1 off but everybody that tries them wants a set. Possible new product? Any feedback would be great.
Typically you rivet the boards to the tunnel even when you use Aluminum, so mating really shouldn't have a bearing on which material to use.
Comparing aluminum and steel or (cromo), kind of goes like this. For the exact same size of tubing lets say 1" .065 wall, the aluminum will weigh about 1/3 of what the steel will, but will also be about 1/3 as stiff, and ruffly half as strong.
So if it took you 3lbs of steel to make the boards, it would take 1lbs of aluminum, however the steel would be 3 times stiffer, and 50% stronger.
Now in reality, you don't ever size them the same because of this. Because stiffness also relies on the diameter of the tubing used, you can get some bigger diameter aluminum and be close to the same weight. Mountain bikes are a good example of this, if you look at similar sized mountain bikes with both steel and aluminum frames, the aluminum frame typically has a much larger O.D of tubing used.
My two things:
-Aluminum has a much shorter fatigue life, it will crack eventually, ask anyone that has owned an aluminum sled deck for any length of time.
-Steel rusts, even cromoly so you need to take this into consideration.
Cromoly describes a number of different alloys. You will want to do some research as to what suits your needs the best. Off the top of my head I have used (4130, 4140, 4340, 4340m (also known as 300m))
If cost is no object, either those carbon boards posted up, or a Ti alloy would be my vote. :d
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HRT Offroad
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My preference would be 4130 chromoly - best choice for the application in my opinion:d
You know, if you are gonna go and fabricate your own footwells, the cat extrusions are super strong. Just go to your cat dealer and order some. Last time I ordered them, they were about 50$ a length. Get 3 lengths, cut up.the 3rdfor cross braces,and rip the tab off. Use a mitre saw with a 60 plus tooth carbide blade and Pam cooking oil to
Prevent blade gumming. If you need some short pieces of tunnel extrusion. I have a bunch if you want to practice. You can have em.
Prevent blade gumming. If you need some short pieces of tunnel extrusion. I have a bunch if you want to practice. You can have em.
Sparx
Active member
Do yourselves a favour, get the Skinz... Welding is in our family and you won't be abled to make these with the quality in them for the cost. No need to get powder coated either, just pick the color you want, I'll be selling these like crazy next year for the guys in our group.
In 3 rides I shreaded my brande new Klim pants, never ever slipped once on these new boards. Had my 260lb uncle stand on them with no flex whatsoever. Don't knock this product till you try it. Not a dealer, but probably should be after my experience with Skinz. You won't get a better product for price.
Had the Sno Eliminators for my M1000, better product stock, but I would never compare them or anything else to these Skinz boards. If these pics don't sell you, nothing will...
About the shreading of your boots? Why would you shread if you don't slip? Seriously, no exageration here... Just sold a set to a XP in flat black but they are backordered. They are available to the Po's, Nytro's, XP's and M series.
You finally don't even have to stomp the snow out, they just fall through naturally.
In 3 rides I shreaded my brande new Klim pants, never ever slipped once on these new boards. Had my 260lb uncle stand on them with no flex whatsoever. Don't knock this product till you try it. Not a dealer, but probably should be after my experience with Skinz. You won't get a better product for price.
Had the Sno Eliminators for my M1000, better product stock, but I would never compare them or anything else to these Skinz boards. If these pics don't sell you, nothing will...
About the shreading of your boots? Why would you shread if you don't slip? Seriously, no exageration here... Just sold a set to a XP in flat black but they are backordered. They are available to the Po's, Nytro's, XP's and M series.
You finally don't even have to stomp the snow out, they just fall through naturally.
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maxwell
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