Bandit_750
Active member
The quote was start to finish. Prep, pour, etc etc
Cost to pour a concrete slab??
- Thread starter 08arcticcat
- Start date
Well sorry I beg to differ, learned a chitload in 3rd year regarding concrete, including how compression and tensile forces react within a slab, beam, structure or whatever else. My instructor at that time, had also been one of the engineers with the bridge that heads out to PEI ... you may of heard of it, think i will take his advice and knowledge of concrete and how it reacts with loads introduced to it..
And yes arcitcat you put your footing in first, normally 18 inches wide, preferably 24 inches, and depending on soil conditions 6 to 8 inches thick., brace and pour,I recommend if your using a 4 foot frost wall on top of your footing, to install a keyway for the frost wall , it negates any lateral shear on your 4 foot concrete frost wall.
And yes arcitcat you put your footing in first, normally 18 inches wide, preferably 24 inches, and depending on soil conditions 6 to 8 inches thick., brace and pour,I recommend if your using a 4 foot frost wall on top of your footing, to install a keyway for the frost wall , it negates any lateral shear on your 4 foot concrete frost wall.
Your talking completely different things. The thickened edge is poured with the pad always.
A footing is poured to set a wall on.
You can go with a gradebeam for a garage pad, it is a much better way then the thickened edge to.
I have personally seen many crack. The thickened edge is used to support the weight of the building, plain and simple, when it fact it usually does more harm then good. I do them all the time, because it's either that or a gradebeam and people don't want to spend the money and they want it to code.
2 years ago I did a 6" pad, and then put the 4' gradebeam on top, engineer wanted it that way. No 1' thickened edge, just a straight pad with plenty of rebar. There is not ONE crack in that floor or wall to this day, and that weights more then ANY building you will put on a thickened edge pad.
I'd really like to hear anyone give me a good reason as to the benefit of the thickened edge.
And on the rest of your post, i've never seen a 6" wall, they are ALWAYS 8" for ANY gradebeam, retaining wall, basement wall, anything. And unless soil conditions are poor 18" footing.
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read ,more cycle... i never said a 6 inch wall.......i said the footing is 6-8 inches thick...
Mike270412
Golden Boy
Cyle is the undisputed king of concrete(and 5.9's with standards) how could u even think of questioning his infinite wisdom?
kenvb
Active VIP Member
I have built 3 double car garages in my day,all cement done by hand ...electric cement mixer, gravel and sand hauled in by pickups..cement in bags. 2 wheel barrows. some rakes,shovels and water hose, .takes a day and a crew of family or freinds,,a lunch provided,some beer..last floor was 2 yrs ago. cost under $500 for everything.But most of us today are too busy or lazy to do it this way anymore.
my Dad built his sidewalks,steps, and poured the basement walls and floor under the family home in the 60s..then we built his garage in the 70s.all by hand..
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my Dad built his sidewalks,steps, and poured the basement walls and floor under the family home in the 60s..then we built his garage in the 70s.all by hand..
o
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