Clutch Puller question

[catzuki]

So i got a kit from a guy from another site, and it all seems like good stuff, So i just bought a new sled(new to me) and i looked at the clutch and it needed to be cleaned and service. So i took the primary bolt off and put the puller in and was trying to get it off and then it looked like th puller was going wanky. So i removed the puller and sure as heck, it looked like a piece of spagetti(bent like a mexican holla dancer). So now i cant get my clutch off now(until he sends me a new puller which he was cool with), but what would make the primary stick on there that hard??? If i get another puller am i gonna run into the same problem?? Last owner of this sled said he never serviced it and it has 3560 miles. Let me know what you think. The sled is the one in my sig.

 

[xrsrev]

it takes quite a bit of force to remove those clutches! If u bent one bolt u may bend another! If u cant get it off grab the doo one! I have removed bout 8 clutches and no problems with mine! Make sure u have the right puller bolt to!

 

[maxwell]

here is the problem. do not apply any more torque to the clutch puller than you would to the clutch bolt itself (75 ft/lbs). lets face it, its not a metal alloy bolt from another planet. yes you will keeep breaking them it is a taper fit clutch and will not come off easy. sometimes i will torque up the puller to 75lbs then let it sit in tension for a few hours and sometimes it will just pop off on its own. other times i apply heat to the clutch shaft and it will most likely come off that way while under tension.

once you have it off...if you get in the habit of taking it off at least twice a season it will coem off like butter every time. its when they are on their for 4000miles like yours they are nasty.

the other option is to tip the sled up on its side and fill the cavity with water then put some pipe thread teflon tape onto the puller bolt and the nature of hydraulics will pop the clutch right off. works every time when they fail the other 2 methods.

 

[teeroy]

the other option is to tip the sled up on its side and fill the cavity with water then put some pipe thread teflon tape onto the puller bolt and the nature of hydraulics will pop the clutch right off. works every time when they fail the other 2 methods.

one can use the stock clutch bolt for the procedure maxwell refers to, put a few wraps of teflon tape around the bolt and it will work. I never use the puller to remove the clutch anymore, just to split the halves.

 

[maxwell]

one can use the stock clutch bolt for the procedure maxwell refers to, put a few wraps of teflon tape around the bolt and it will work. I never use the puller to remove the clutch anymore, just to split the halves.

duh my bad. lol

yah and if you cant get the clutch halves apart just thread the PULLER LOL into the clutch once its off and hit the end with a rubber mallet. or gently drop the puller end on a connc floor comes off every time.

 

[teeroy]

duh my bad. lol

yah and if you cant get the clutch halves apart just thread the PULLER LOL into the clutch once its off and hit the end with a rubber mallet. or gently drop the puller end on a connc floor comes off every time.

I was pretty sure you knew about the bolt thing, figured you had a moment there....:d

 

[sledheadted]

Hey Catzuki dude...My first and only time using a clutch puller resulted in the same twisted up look.Since then, I only remove the bolt, mark the face with the shaft(where the belt rides), and with no effort slide the outer half(2 pieces,together) off for cleaning and rebuilding. Make sure you notice the factory "arrow"markings on the removed half BEFORE splitting them, as to put them together as they were or your clutch repair won't last long.

 

[catzuki]

ok well im getting another puller tommorow at some point and im gonna give it a try. did you guys use a impact gun or just a wrench? I was using a big(15") crescent wrench. I didnt have to mcuh torque on it cause i didnt want to wreck anything, but i might have to try your hydralic method. It seems like its on there and the last owner told me it had never been off.

 

[maxwell]

Hey Catzuki dude...My first and only time using a clutch puller resulted in the same twisted up look.Since then, I only remove the bolt, mark the face with the shaft(where the belt rides), and with no effort slide the outer half(2 pieces,together) off for cleaning and rebuilding. Make sure you notice the factory "arrow"markings on the removed half BEFORE splitting them, as to put them together as they were or your clutch repair won't last long.

sometimes that will not work. only on worn out or older model tra2 clutchesd that can work.

the newer tra5 taper fits and taper spines require the entire assembely to come off in order to seperate. USUALY

 

[maxwell]

ok well im getting another puller tommorow at some point and im gonna give it a try. did you guys use a impact gun or just a wrench? I was using a big(15") crescent wrench. I didnt have to mcuh torque on it cause i didnt want to wreck anything, but i might have to try your hydralic method. It seems like its on there and the last owner told me it had never been off.

use a torque wrench to 75 ft/lbs. with a 15" wrench it wont feel like alot of pressure. dont use an impact either.

 

[sledheadted]

unless ur doing work to or replacing ur crank...why do you need to get the inside half off? Scuff the face with scotchbrite and slide the other rebuilt/half back on..just trying to rid ur stress bud.

 

[catzuki]

ya thats why i didnt use an impact. I got a torque wrench so ill do that tommorow. I need to clean it as it looks like about 6 years of burnt belts on that thing and it also feels like the the clutch needs a bit of work. Almost sounds like a couple buttons are worn as the weights are clankin a bit.

 

[maxwell]

unless ur doing work to or replacing ur crank...why do you need to get the inside half off? Scuff the face with scotchbrite and slide the other rebuilt/half back on..just trying to rid ur stress bud.

on some models like the tra 5 and 7 you can not just slide the half off. (taper fit) the whole assembely needs to come off and be punched out with the puller bolt.

 

[sledheadted]

Oh I see Maxwell..my bad. thats why I got on here to learn and learn..my sleds getting to be a little old now so i guess my knowhow is as wel

 

[maxwell]

yeah like i said. i have a tra2 on my 2001 and it slides off no problem as they all do.

same with SOME of the tra3 on the rev depending on how many miles it has on it.

but as far as tra5 (rt1000) and the tra7 ( xp ) they are almost press fit on. cant come off without removing the whole clutch and beating on the bolt.

learn something new everyday i dont actually know anything i just copy what other people say

 

[bhowes]

if it does not work tip sled on side clutch facing up pour small amount of water in bolt hole install puller w/ teflon tape on thread tighten up so water wont leak out tip sled back on feet and start torquing clutch will pop right off
plumber lesson of the day cant compress water so hydraulic force will pop off clutch

 

[catzuki]

if it does not work tip sled on side clutch facing up pour small amount of water in bolt hole install puller w/ teflon tape on thread tighten up so water wont leak out tip sled back on feet and start torquing clutch will pop right off
plumber lesson of the day cant compress water so hydraulic force will pop off clutch

Well i got it off today no problem. I went and borrowed the local shops puller and it came off no problem. I gave the clutch a little tap with a rubber mallet and it came off easy. Got both the primary and seconday all cleaned up and bak on the sled. Might install a clutch kit in a bit, just not sure what i want right now.

Thanks again for the help and coments.

 

[maxwell]

you want a dj clutch kit

i already decided for you dont even worry about it.

 

[dooryder]

whats djs site again, might be ordering a kit from him in the near future

 

[2003Summit]

Did 3 sleds in the last two days. 2 XP and one 03 ZX.

NONE would come off with the puller. Bent the puller on the 09 XP (over torqued it). I would now recommend a torque wrench with the puller and give up around 90ftlbs. Had to use the hydraulic method on all three. Worked great.

The only comment about the hydraulic method is despite several attempts with various amounts of teflon tape there is enough seepage that tightening by hand was not fast enough. Had to use an impact wrench. In two cases the impact only impacted for about 1.5 seconds. The 03 was bad, about 3-4 second of impacting. Man did it pop.

We were using water. Oil might not seep past the teflon but water does. We used water because we didn't want the hassle of cleaning up any oil.

I don't think I will use a standard puller ever again. The hydraulic method is the bomb. Put your pullers away.

I think the way the water pushes on the clutch is has much more surface area and creates more force in a safer way. Plus I think it might also expand the clutch minutely which also helps. It sure does work allot better than a puller.

Just tilt the sled, wrap your bolt with teflon, fill that hole up with water (make a mess, who cares), thread it in about 4 turns by hand and use the impact on it. POP!