Clutch Kits???

STYKO

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Question, I've read many threads about clutch kits and primary and secondary and different colors springs, etc.....

1. If I put some 28" Zillas on my Brute 650i, will I need to do a clutch kit????, I hear the 28" zillas are only 27" high and zillas are light weight.

2. If clutch kit is needed, can I do myself,

any help/info, thanks:beer::beer::beer:
 

skid

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you will need a clutch kit if you don't want to smoke your belt. I have 2 brutes ones a 750 and the other is a 650, i tried running 28" swamp lites on the 650 and it takes a bit to lug them around. On my 750 i just change the primary and secondary springs to a maroon and almond and it pulls good even in high gear.
 

brutematt750

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you will need a clutch kit if you don't want to smoke your belt. I have 2 brutes ones a 750 and the other is a 650, i tried running 28" swamp lites on the 650 and it takes a bit to lug them around. On my 750 i just change the primary and secondary springs to a maroon and almond and it pulls good even in high gear.[/QUOTE

Hey skid , good to see you on this site !

I agree maroon primary and almond secondary would work good. They are made buy EPI and cost around $25 each. Super easy to do u just need a couple tools : torque wrench( that goes both directions , cause the primary is reverse thread ) , primary clutch puller ( also made by EPI) , and a secondary spring compressor tool ( that u can make yourself or buy the one that EPI makes). check out mud in my blood website for full detailed instruction and videos of how to do this.
 

STYKO

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you will need a clutch kit if you don't want to smoke your belt. I have 2 brutes ones a 750 and the other is a 650, i tried running 28" swamp lites on the 650 and it takes a bit to lug them around. On my 750 i just change the primary and secondary springs to a maroon and almond and it pulls good even in high gear.

Thanks, I will look into this, my buddy in MB, has 28" mud lite XTR on his 650 and XTR are more in weight then Zillas, so, I think I should be okay with a clutch kit:beer:
 

STYKO

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you will need a clutch kit if you don't want to smoke your belt. I have 2 brutes ones a 750 and the other is a 650, i tried running 28" swamp lites on the 650 and it takes a bit to lug them around. On my 750 i just change the primary and secondary springs to a maroon and almond and it pulls good even in high gear.[/QUOTE

Hey skid , good to see you on this site !

I agree maroon primary and almond secondary would work good. They are made buy EPI and cost around $25 each. Super easy to do u just need a couple tools : torque wrench( that goes both directions , cause the primary is reverse thread ) , primary clutch puller ( also made by EPI) , and a secondary spring compressor tool ( that u can make yourself or buy the one that EPI makes). check out mud in my blood website for full detailed instruction and videos of how to do this.

I will check out the Mud in my blood site, thanks
 

skid

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you will need a clutch kit if you don't want to smoke your belt. I have 2 brutes ones a 750 and the other is a 650, i tried running 28" swamp lites on the 650 and it takes a bit to lug them around. On my 750 i just change the primary and secondary springs to a maroon and almond and it pulls good even in high gear.[/QUOTE

Hey skid , good to see you on this site !

I agree maroon primary and almond secondary would work good. They are made buy EPI and cost around $25 each. Super easy to do u just need a couple tools : torque wrench( that goes both directions , cause the primary is reverse thread ) , primary clutch puller ( also made by EPI) , and a secondary spring compressor tool ( that u can make yourself or buy the one that EPI makes). check out mud in my blood website for full detailed instruction and videos of how to do this.

brutematt I'm glad i found this site to lots of canadians, i like to see that!
 

4byrookie

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I wouldn't even waste your time with a secondary spring, I ran my 28" Zillas on stock clutching for 900km with no issues and no belt smoking. I mud as hard as anyone and had no issues. You will barely notice any difference in power unless you are searching for it. I would go with a maroon primary and it will give you more snap than stock and requires very little work to do. I set mine up with the maroon primary at about 950km and it worked great till I put the Laws on at 1100km.
 

STYKO

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I wouldn't even waste your time with a secondary spring, I ran my 28" Zillas on stock clutching for 900km with no issues and no belt smoking. I mud as hard as anyone and had no issues. You will barely notice any difference in power unless you are searching for it. I would go with a maroon primary and it will give you more snap than stock and requires very little work to do. I set mine up with the maroon primary at about 950km and it worked great till I put the Laws on at 1100km.

Any special tools needed to just do a primary spring to maroon? I have lots of tools, but always looking to add to the collection!!!
 

brutematt750

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Any special tools needed to just do a primary spring to maroon? I have lots of tools, but always looking to add to the collection!!!

If u just do the primary u can do it while still on the quad. There's a vid on how to do it this way on Mud in my blood. You don't need any special tools to do it that way.
 

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do u ever go 100km down a road????????? i'd maroon prim and almond second it.... and put on a new teryx belt while ur at it and keep your old one for a good spare...
 

STYKO

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do u ever go 100km down a road????????? i'd maroon prim and almond second it.... and put on a new teryx belt while ur at it and keep your old one for a good spare...

Once, I went 97km (fast as it would go) down a gravel rd to my gradma's house last time I took my quad to MB. It was fun, no cops there in that area. :nono::nono: But for the most part I do not drive that fast. :d:d

Is the Teryx belt better or something?

If you maroon the prim for better snap off the start, what is the almond secondary going to do for me? Thanks!
 

tex78

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Once, I went 97km (fast as it would go) down a gravel rd to my gradma's house last time I took my quad to MB. It was fun, no cops there in that area. :nono::nono: But for the most part I do not drive that fast. :d:d

Is the Teryx belt better or something?

If you maroon the prim for better snap off the start, what is the almond secondary going to do for me? Thanks!

ya if u do both it will have more snap off the start but it takes ur top end speed out.. [ its like gearing it down ]...

i have 30's and have the almond prim and red sec... the red sec is 2 times longer than the stocker
 

brutematt750

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ya if u do both it will have more snap off the start but it takes ur top end speed out.. [ its like gearing it down ]...

i have 30's and have the almond prim and red sec... the red sec is 2 times longer than the stocker

If you do both springs it will make even more snappy then just doing the primary. I had just a primary in mine when I first got it and ran it like that for about 600 kms then changed the secondary to an almond and it was defiantly a noticeable difference. As for the tyrex belt , it is suppose to be better made because of the extra strain on it from the tyrex weighing more the the brute. Make sure u check ur deflection when u put a new belt on. I just put a new belt in mine and it was about 5-6 mm tighter then my last one was when I put it in.
 

tex78

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huh i just put a teryx belt on mine with out having to change nothing...

we measured it at the kawi dealer and it was the the same size...
 

brutematt750

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huh i just put a teryx belt on mine with out having to change nothing...

we measured it at the kawi dealer and it was the the same size...

The belt i put in was a brute belt and I don't know what was going on with the belt I just put it in but it was super tight. It seemed like maybe that belt was just out of spec or something because I've had 3 other belts on it without it being that tight. I already had it set up to be tight so now I'm going to have shim it out a bit. I just sent my clutch down to v force John to have the stage 3 mod done, so I'm going to wait till I get it back and check the deflection after the machining done.
 

tex78

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The belt i put in was a brute belt and I don't know what was going on with the belt I just put it in but it was super tight. It seemed like maybe that belt was just out of spec or something because I've had 3 other belts on it without it being that tight. I already had it set up to be tight so now I'm going to have shim it out a bit. I just sent my clutch down to v force John to have the stage 3 mod done, so I'm going to wait till I get it back and check the deflection after the machining done.

ok i'm on kawiriders too whats the stage 3 mod intail?
 

brutematt750

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ok i'm on kawiriders too whats the stage 3 mod intail?

he does the cover mod as well as the sheaves more aggresively for the 750 versus the 650. Suppose to be pretty noticable difference. I had a groove in mine from the belt being to tight, so this is a good way to machine the sheaves as well as upgrade while I'm at it. Seemed like the right thing to do! I guess I'll find out how well it works.
 
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