neilsleder
Active VIP Member
I know he has a stand to install it, I built it so now it’s all excuses lol
Chinese diesel heaters for enclosed sled trailer
- Thread starter SnowDog
- Start date
I know he has a stand to install it, I built it so now it’s all excuses lol
- Moderator
- #62
Worked on it today.
The checker plate is over the 2 inch hole.
Then I bent the checker plate to cover the sides of the hole.
Thicker aluminum piece has a hole to fit the exhaust pipe lined up to the center of 2 inch hole. To eliminate heat transfer to the wood.
The stand Neil built for me. It’s perfect
It has been running for 3 hours set at 35C.
I will report inside temperature. It is minus 16 here.
The checker plate is over the 2 inch hole.
Then I bent the checker plate to cover the sides of the hole.
Thicker aluminum piece has a hole to fit the exhaust pipe lined up to the center of 2 inch hole. To eliminate heat transfer to the wood.
The stand Neil built for me. It’s perfect
It has been running for 3 hours set at 35C.
I will report inside temperature. It is minus 16 here.
- Moderator
- #63
- Moderator
- #64
- Moderator
- #65
- Moderator
- #66
Frankenytro
Active VIP Member
- Moderator
- #68
Yes,,Are your walls insulated?
- Moderator
- #69
No, I have done the roof, then I’m finishing the inside (heater included) and see how it goes, then will insulate the floor. If I can keep the heater running for the weekend when nessarry, Shoukdnt need too do the walls.
- Moderator
- #70
Used 1 inch styrofoam in the walls and ceiling.
We put 2 Rv Matt’s on the floor for camping
Insulating the walls made a huge difference
Ricki Bobby
Active VIP Member
That’s awesome. What did you use on the roof to hold the insulation?
Lightningmike
Active VIP Member
Nice job Ray!!
- Moderator
- #73
I cut the insulation snug between rafters. Then covered with 4x8 sheets of paneling white on one side. Then 1x4’s at seams and around edges this is before wood panels
Here's my spec - 16 ft v-nose - fully insulated similar to arff and used poly and tuck tape. Spray foamed the underside of the floor. Brings the temp from 0 to +16 in about 1.25 hours. The last few days at -34c outside, I set the thermostat at 8 and it just keeps it there happy happy. Uses about 2.5-3 l of fuel in 24 hours at those temps, when its warmer, maybe 1 -1.5 L per day. I've had mine for a few years now, know lots about them so feel free to ask.
You don't really need to buy the 8KW ones, most of them are just re-branded 5KW units, the heat output is the same. They typically run about 200-225 degrees C on the combustion temp, exhaust outlet is about 350-400F at full tilt and the outlet air temp is about 80c. Once it drops down to maintenance (once the trailer is up to temp), you can almost touch the exhaust with your hand, only about 200F. Air outlet temps drops to about 60C and the combustion temp drops to 150-160C.
If you guys want a remote, most of them have the upgraded digital screens now with remote (if you have a rotary knob one or the stock digital screen without a remote), just make sure you get the right connector as there are a few different styles.
They will run off of a standard 12VDC battery, you're going to get about 9-16 hours from it depending on how high you want the temp set and the amp hour rating on your battery. Hardest part on batteries is the start up (and shut down), on start up they will draw about 6-7 amps when the glow plug, fan and fuel pump starts. Running they only use about 1-3 amps. I run a dual battery set up on my trailer, tied into 350 W solar panels (and the truck +12V on my 7-pin to charge those batteries when driving). The heater runs off those batteries. With the panels not covered in snow, the trailer is stand alone. There is an automatic battery disconnect on the trailer that cuts power draw from the truck so it never draws the truck down when its shut off. When parked, I connect a battery charger to the inverter and the heater runs off that. You can also get a standalone 120V to 12VDC 20 amp power supply for around $30 that will power the heater when your trailer is parked.
If your voltage ever gets too low, the heater should shut off and throw a code for low voltage.
I built some diffusers for the intake and exhaust. You do not want the intake facing forward and being ram air, too much road salt, moisture and intake pressure will do bad things to your heater and could cause it to overheat and catch fire. Somewhere tucked up is nice. I run mine while driving to and from staging, set thermostat at 20C and keeps things toasty and all the gear and sleds dry by the time you are back to your lodging. Your exhaust should be down lower than the trailer frame. As someone else did, just use a sleeve with a few inches of clearance and I just stuffed some fibreglass repair cloth up between the spray foam and the exhaust pipe.
For water management, I put down some industrial vinyl flooring, installed a floor drain at the back of the trailer to drain the melt water and use a small 12VDC fan to exhaust the excess air moisture. You can buy the trough-style driveway grate drain from Home Desperate or Lowes in various lengths. I was initially worried about the flooring but it hasn't really any tears after 2 seasons. I just went to a flooring depot place and got an off-cut/ discontinued / end of the roll type piece for cheap. The flooring and glue was $90 and will be better than having to install a new subfloor in 7-10 years, just replace the vinyl instead.
You don't really need to buy the 8KW ones, most of them are just re-branded 5KW units, the heat output is the same. They typically run about 200-225 degrees C on the combustion temp, exhaust outlet is about 350-400F at full tilt and the outlet air temp is about 80c. Once it drops down to maintenance (once the trailer is up to temp), you can almost touch the exhaust with your hand, only about 200F. Air outlet temps drops to about 60C and the combustion temp drops to 150-160C.
If you guys want a remote, most of them have the upgraded digital screens now with remote (if you have a rotary knob one or the stock digital screen without a remote), just make sure you get the right connector as there are a few different styles.
They will run off of a standard 12VDC battery, you're going to get about 9-16 hours from it depending on how high you want the temp set and the amp hour rating on your battery. Hardest part on batteries is the start up (and shut down), on start up they will draw about 6-7 amps when the glow plug, fan and fuel pump starts. Running they only use about 1-3 amps. I run a dual battery set up on my trailer, tied into 350 W solar panels (and the truck +12V on my 7-pin to charge those batteries when driving). The heater runs off those batteries. With the panels not covered in snow, the trailer is stand alone. There is an automatic battery disconnect on the trailer that cuts power draw from the truck so it never draws the truck down when its shut off. When parked, I connect a battery charger to the inverter and the heater runs off that. You can also get a standalone 120V to 12VDC 20 amp power supply for around $30 that will power the heater when your trailer is parked.
If your voltage ever gets too low, the heater should shut off and throw a code for low voltage.
I built some diffusers for the intake and exhaust. You do not want the intake facing forward and being ram air, too much road salt, moisture and intake pressure will do bad things to your heater and could cause it to overheat and catch fire. Somewhere tucked up is nice. I run mine while driving to and from staging, set thermostat at 20C and keeps things toasty and all the gear and sleds dry by the time you are back to your lodging. Your exhaust should be down lower than the trailer frame. As someone else did, just use a sleeve with a few inches of clearance and I just stuffed some fibreglass repair cloth up between the spray foam and the exhaust pipe.
For water management, I put down some industrial vinyl flooring, installed a floor drain at the back of the trailer to drain the melt water and use a small 12VDC fan to exhaust the excess air moisture. You can buy the trough-style driveway grate drain from Home Desperate or Lowes in various lengths. I was initially worried about the flooring but it hasn't really any tears after 2 seasons. I just went to a flooring depot place and got an off-cut/ discontinued / end of the roll type piece for cheap. The flooring and glue was $90 and will be better than having to install a new subfloor in 7-10 years, just replace the vinyl instead.
Last edited:
- Moderator
- #75
Ganibis
Member
Multi-use trailer finished up. 21' by 7'. I ordered the trailer originally with the walls and roof insulated. 1" styrofoam in the walls and 1/2 bat r12 fiberglass in the roof.
I added 2" durospan between the floor joists and strapped with plumbing hanger. I thought about getting it sprayfoamed, but after seeing a friend's get soaked from melting sleds and adding a ton of weight to the trailer I decided against it.
I have the 4 port 8kw heater, used some 1 1/2" abs to make some ducts to split flow throughout the trailer. Make sure to use the supplied foil ducts for at least 12" off the heater then connect the abs. It will get hot enough to deform.
Added a 3 amp battery charger connected to my 120v base plug and onboard battery. Just need to bring the generator for the kids to watch tv while fishing.
Still fits my RZR 4 1000, or 3 sleds, or 2 sleds 2 snowbikes, or a bunch of drunk fishing buddies.
Was -29C on Monday, heater set on 4.8hz and 5 ice fishing holes open with sleeves it was 14C inside.
I added 2" durospan between the floor joists and strapped with plumbing hanger. I thought about getting it sprayfoamed, but after seeing a friend's get soaked from melting sleds and adding a ton of weight to the trailer I decided against it.
I have the 4 port 8kw heater, used some 1 1/2" abs to make some ducts to split flow throughout the trailer. Make sure to use the supplied foil ducts for at least 12" off the heater then connect the abs. It will get hot enough to deform.
Added a 3 amp battery charger connected to my 120v base plug and onboard battery. Just need to bring the generator for the kids to watch tv while fishing.
Still fits my RZR 4 1000, or 3 sleds, or 2 sleds 2 snowbikes, or a bunch of drunk fishing buddies.
Was -29C on Monday, heater set on 4.8hz and 5 ice fishing holes open with sleeves it was 14C inside.
- Moderator
- #77
Since we don’t sled. But use trailer for day trips and winter camping and sxs riding.
Has anyone tried putting a insulated tarp on the floor. Then a rv matt on top.
Might be nice to walk on and have camp cots on.
Looking at options for the floor.
Has anyone tried putting a insulated tarp on the floor. Then a rv matt on top.
Might be nice to walk on and have camp cots on.
Looking at options for the floor.
Rene G
Active VIP Member
If you want something temporary you could try these, they’re insulate and provide some cushion
- Moderator
- #79
Great idea
snopro
Active VIP Member
Good job guys. Lots of thought put into this.
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