Chinese diesel heaters for enclosed sled trailer

catmando

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Got it working great and cleaned up, biggest issue was the gas cap vent was plugged, suffocated the poor little bugger. Ran 2 test with it plugged in too my garage for 7 hours, worked as it should. Did a 3rd test without plugging it in too my house, started it in -20 ran off the battery for 7 hours worked like a charm, shut it down and the battery was still good. Finally I can say I’m happy with it. 👍🏻✌🏻😁🍺
 

Bernoff

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Yes I tested it with smoke. In the trailer it goes off. We don’t wear monitors in fires, We use CO monitors, choline, and oxygen level monitors at alarm calls when home smoke/co detectors go off. They are MSA small monitors. Clip on our jackets
How much are your carbon monoxide Monitors that you wear? I 'm not sure if I would trust a household monitor that is in a environment like a sled trailer. Hot , Cold, Vibration from roads and Humidity can't be good for it.
 
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arff

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How much are your carbon monoxide Monitors that you wear? I 'm not sure if I would trust a household monitor that is in a environment like a sled trailer. Hot , Cold, Vibration from roads and Humidity can't be good for it.

The ones at work? I can ask.
I know we recalibrate them twice a week and the calibration gas is expensive
 

Bernoff

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The ones at work? I can ask.
I know we recalibrate them twice a week and the calibration gas is expensive.
I'm just not sure about the household stuff. The recalibration you do is very important since yours and the rest of the fire fighters lives depend on it. You deal with nasty ch!t and thanks for standing up each day and saying you will go into the fire and save people. Thanks and yes if you could find out what they are worth it would be appreciated. Information is always something you can never have too much of. It will come down to how I will mitigate the risk.
 
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TylerG

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I'm just not sure about the household stuff. The recalibration you do is very important since yours and the rest of the fire fighters lives depend on it. You deal with nasty ch!t and thanks for standing up each day and saying you will go into the fire and save people. Thanks and yes if you could find out what they are worth it would be appreciated. Information is always something you can never have too much of. It will come down to how I will mitigate the risk.
Why not look into an RV one then that would be designed for similar conditions?
 

summit889

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manual is wrong for this controller, anyone able to give me the rundown? Seems like if you hold top left it’ll change screens sometimes. Thanks
 

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Bernoff

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Why not look into an RV one then that would be designed for similar conditions?
Are you suggesting an RV CO detecter? Didn't know of such a thing. Thought they would be exactly the same as our household ones. Thanks
 

meierjn

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An RV usually has a CO detector and a propane leak detector. I should look at replacing mine this year. I'm sure its "best before" date is expired.
 

TylerG

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An RV usually has a CO detector and a propane leak detector. I should look at replacing mine this year. I'm sure its "best before" date is expired.
I think they only have a 10 year life expectancy, if they expire none of propane appliances will work
 

MP Kid

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I think they only have a 10 year life expectancy, if they expire none of propane appliances will work
Appliances still work…
Monitor just keeps chirping until the power is cut off. Mine was wired direct to the battery, main trailer disconnect didn’t solve the problem. Had to cut the wires to the device and replaced it.
 

summit889

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Is the flex they send enough length to transition to ABS? Seems like it’s still really hot coming out of the flex. Heater is running just over 200f
 

Modman

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Is the flex they send enough length to transition to ABS? Seems like it’s still really hot coming out of the flex. Heater is running just over 200f
Not sure about ABS - use gas furnace venting ducting, it can take the heat better. I've used PVC but it will discolour and warp a bit, just FYI. But yes, if you stretch it out, it should be fine to transition to a different pipe.
 
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Bernoff

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Another question. I have a pull start little 500 genset. Will it over charge a Battery or is there a regulator that prevents it? Probably 40 years old but still runs good.
 

arff

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Another question. I have a pull start little 500 genset. Will it over charge a Battery or is there a regulator that prevents it? Probably 40 years old but still runs good.

I run my generator all night. I installed a 6 amp auto battery minder to my 2 rv batteries in my enclosed
 

Modman

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Another question. I have a pull start little 500 genset. Will it over charge a Battery or is there a regulator that prevents it? Probably 40 years old but still runs good.
Not really following you.

1) Genny > battery charger > battery?

or

2) Genny > battery?

If the generator is plugged into a battery charger or a smart charger then it should be fine to connect to the battery (option 1). If its just somehow connected to the battery directly (like off a 2 post 12VDC direct connection - option 2) , then it will charge the battery to whatever the generator output voltage is (if genny puts out 30V then that's what the battery will see). Most have a set of "12VDC" posts and as long as the output is regulated to 12VDC from the genny, it should be fine. You should test the output voltage to confirm though.
 

Bernoff

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Yes modman I was wanting to go Genny straight off the 12 volt terminal to the battery. Some of these smaller gensets ( look at least ) like a automotive alternator. So I would assume that there is a voltage regulator that prevents the battery from overcharging. Second question. If this it true does the genny have to be at full throttle because an automotive alternator can be "I think" just higher than idle and it will be charging. Seems to me that it would be more efficent and quieter to go the Genny 12 volt terminals to battery. School on my options thanks.
 
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