Building a garage-shop , need help

niner

Active VIP Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2009
Messages
8,674
Reaction score
62,531
Location
lacombe
Metal building guy Said its way harder to build because it's twice the span , said probably twice the time to build it
I’m thinking seeing you wanted a 40x40 with 12’ storage on both sides he priced out a 70’ wide building. 40’ wide building and 70’ long will price out way cheaper.
 

tex78

Active VIP Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Messages
17,570
Reaction score
17,029
Location
DA Moose B.C
I’m thinking seeing you wanted a 40x40 with 12’ storage on both sides he priced out a 70’ wide building. 40’ wide building and 70’ long will price out way cheaper.
The 40x40 with 12 foot sides is 64 feet total one side

40x70 be the same , except all open inside between all 4 walls

Screenshot_20220104-212253_OneDrive.jpg
Screenshot_20220104-212307_OneDrive.jpg
 

Cyle

Active VIP Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2008
Messages
7,182
Reaction score
4,762
Location
edmonton
Wood would be a way better option if steel isn't a clear span, who wants a bunch of posts in the way if it's only a 40' span, wood trusses will span that easy. As Niner said though on a 40x70 run the trusses the 40 way not the 70 way much cheaper.
 

tex78

Active VIP Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Messages
17,570
Reaction score
17,029
Location
DA Moose B.C
Wood would be a way better option if steel isn't a clear span, who wants a bunch of posts in the way if it's only a 40' span, wood trusses will span that easy. As Niner said though on a 40x70 run the trusses the 40 way not the 70 way much cheaper.
Ya I never asked which way

But the guy said very close to same price for building, just way more time to assemble
 

2kDoo

Active VIP Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2012
Messages
2,583
Reaction score
4,874
Location
s
My co worker got one of these, the garage barn series. His was about 20k I think. un insulated etc
 

X-it

Active VIP Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Messages
7,894
Reaction score
17,997
Location
Prince George
Who knows what you guys can get away with on your farms but if you have to follow the codes there is now way you can go wider than 32 feet without engineered piles. So you may as well go down 4 feet and not have to deal with frost heaves. If you are going with metal roofs you better learn about condensation under the metal, they may have some new fancy products that work good at stopping this that actually work, however i have not tried any so far i can vouch for.
 

tex78

Active VIP Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Messages
17,570
Reaction score
17,029
Location
DA Moose B.C
My co worker got one of these, the garage barn series. His was about 20k I think. un insulated etc
Not big enough
 

TDR

Active VIP Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
935
Reaction score
1,395
Location
Edmonton
Where in the building did you install the tube heater? Is it parallel to the overhead doors or perpendicular across the shop in front of them?

Runns from the back of the shop towards the front doors. Awesome heat.
 

ctd

Active VIP Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2016
Messages
526
Reaction score
1,515
Location
In Elevation
I've 50 x 100 in mind with same number of doors you have here, any idea $ per sqft? Why would you stick frame vs steel vs post & beam vs ICF?
 

niner

Active VIP Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2009
Messages
8,674
Reaction score
62,531
Location
lacombe
I've 50 x 100 in mind with same number of doors you have here, any idea $ per sqft? Why would you stick frame vs steel vs post & beam vs ICF?
I don’t have final pricing yet. But a stick frame has these advantages. Easier to insulate and get a very good R-value in the walls over steel. 4’ insulated foundation has advantages over a pole building as it has a better frost barrier and keep the heat in the building. ICF would have a way higher building cost with no benefits compared to this build.
 

overkill19

Active VIP Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
305
Reaction score
694
Imo
Best money I spent was 3” SM under the floor and 3” SM on the outside of the frost walls.
Just laying the Sm on the gravel you could feel the shop get warmer.
I’m not a infloor heat believer for shops. But I’m sure glad I put Sm under the floor


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

niner

Active VIP Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2009
Messages
8,674
Reaction score
62,531
Location
lacombe
Imo
Best money I spent was 3” SM under the floor and 3” SM on the outside of the frost walls.
Just laying the Sm on the gravel you could feel the shop get warmer.
I’m not a infloor heat believer for shops. But I’m sure glad I put Sm under the floor


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
The only problem with SM on the outside of a frost wall is keeping the mice out. Rodent control is critical.
 

niner

Active VIP Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2009
Messages
8,674
Reaction score
62,531
Location
lacombe
What kind of extra measures do you take on a build like that to keep the mice out?
The insulation in the foundation is sandwiched between concrete. This wall was 4” concrete, 2” styrofoam, 4” concrete. Depends on the customer but we usually recommend 3” styrofoam in the middle. Then we blow cellulose in the walls.
 

NeilV

Active VIP Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2009
Messages
203
Reaction score
470
Location
Busby Alberta
I've 50 x 100 in mind with same number of doors you have here, any idea $ per sqft? Why would you stick frame vs steel vs post & beam vs ICF?

45-50$/sqft for a stick frame on a 4ft grade beam, finished and insulated. No plumbing or electrical. 20ft walls.

Very little price difference between pole shed and stick frame. Only extra cost is the grade beam and you make up most of that by not buying the pressure treated lumber for the posts.
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom