Boondocker nitrous install

bayman

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Pretty sure I can manage the installation, but it's the tuning that is scaring me. Anybody in Cowtown want to help a fella out. Gotta bring the spare sled to Linderman for new crankshaft and top end. Don't really want to fork out more cash. Already had the XP down there and that set me back 1500 bones. Ummm, yes there will be beer involved. Can't seem to doo anything without it. I was raised on the bottle.:beer::beer:
 

oler1234

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its not difficult just follow the instruction. Only thing is you need to get a Y-block for the DPM. Leave your lines relatively long so that you can pull the air box in and out with more ease, as well tuning. Solinoid should mount on the cross bar between secondary clutch tower and chaincase. As for bottle, the stock bracket can work, but it depends on what type of can you are running and the size of bottle. 4.0lber CF can be treaky. Best place is to mount it right on the can if you can, the more heat the better.

As for tuning, just leave leave the origonal disks in it that you get from boon docker, 5hp per hole roughly. I think it works out to a 30 or 40hp hit. Crank the fuel setting to the max. And dial it back from there. Regulator will help you consistancy but not necessary.

For activation i stayed with a button, but i know we set one up through trigger pull of throttle. That was pretty slick. Button is what i prefer.
 

wiseguy

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Here's a couple pics of mine installed. Didn't like the switch that came with the kit, so I took a kill switch from a KTM dirt bike. Just dremeled out the sides of the switch so that a zip tie would fit through it and used that. The only problem that I have with the kit is that the panel over the bottle doesn't close quite all the way and when you pull the starter cord it rubs the panel. I just need to trim the panel a little. For tuning I have a long flat screw driver that I can reach in and turn the dials. Just set it up like the instructions said and haven't touched it since.
 

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bayman

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Thanks boys, I will try and get it installed on the weekend. Youngest daughter's birthday is saturday though, and being a single dad, I can't miss it. Also have to pull a little weight out of the primary, then will tackle this. Linderman thought he had it a little heavy, I could only pull 8000 on clicker 5. What clicker are you guys running them on? I had it set up for 4 before the bb.
From what I remember, the instructions from boondocker show something about the dpm. (Wish i had them with me, so don't sound like a complete dumby) I think it had to do with venting?? There was the dpm option and a carb option, I think?? Which one do I use?:beer:
 

tnt-salvage

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i have a filling station i might sell. its like brand new bought from boondocker direct. 43 lbs when full of nitrous. still have roughly $100.00 worth of juice in it. im pulling the nitrous off my sled and no longer using. please pm if any interest in it.

i have a hybrid kit on my sled half holtz half boondocker works awesome but dont really hill climb anymore so no need to keep it.
 

oler1234

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Use the DPM option. Carb optionbasically removes all the functions of the DPM, back to the old school. there is no venting, you just have to splice the DPM line and install a Y-block. Likei mention earlier keep it relatively long so you can pull the air box if need without alot of swearing. With my BB i am running clicker 1-3 depending on elevation. As for the bracket and the side panel about note, just put a kink on the back side support to lay the bottle closer to the oil tank. This will get ride of the problem. In my case, i just relocated the fuzes to the nitrous braket and cut the holder off the oil tank so there was clearence.

Just as a side note i might be able to help you out with re-fills.
 
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