Any garage pad experts in here

[gotboost]

Here is the problem iam going to be having i have a 24 by 24 garage right now that is getting moved in the spring and iam build 32 by 36 in spring can i pour cement over my existing pad i have now as i have to make my pad bigger I just dont want to rip out the old cement pad. Should i drill little chunks of rebar into the exisiting pad i have on the sides and top so the whole pad is tied in together ????? I might need an expert opinion not sure if my way will work thanks colin Or the other way is to pour around pad making the old floor part of my new garage ?????

 

[bayman]

Probably could pour it over the existing one but....How is your floor in the existing one?How well is the compaction on the soil?

If you inspect and find everything if satisfactory to you with the existing slab, then give 'er.

Where will the new slab sit,are you building directly in the middle(having 4 and 6 feet each side)or will the existing pad be an outside edge.The latter way will be the best I think.Will the new slab be thicker? If so, you will need to bush hammer(roughen) the concrete for a good bond. Definetely drill dowels into the existing slab(10M @300mm, minimum embedment of 150mm).

Jack hammering the slab and starting over is the most ideal way but you can attach to other slab.Any rebar questions, just sent me a PM, I know alittle about the chit.

 

[Cyle]

Pouring over is a no-no-no-no-never(99% of concrete guys will refuse to do it as it's not proper, and anyone who will likely doesn't know what they are doing). Pretty much guaranteed problems. Even if the existing slab is fine, you are going to double the weight and very likely to run into issues. As for pouring around. If you know that pad is done proper and in really good shape you could drill in rebar and attach to the outside. But it's still not a great way. I mean if the pad is only a few years old and in perfect shape you could otherwise a lot better to take it out and start again. Plus if you pour overtop, you would save very little not taking out the other pad, $1200 or so would remove and haul away the other pad, atleast around here.

 

[gotboost]

the pad was built in 1980 ish so i guess i will rip it out and start over might be easier in the long run i was a bit leary about pouring over the pad so thanks guys i guess i will be doing it the hard way haha

 

[007sevens]

If your are going to add say two inchs to the old pad and you drill reinforcement from the sides to tie the two pads together wouldnt it be alright. Maybe the strength on the edge of the old to new might crack. Doing same thing this spring on a bit larger scale, keep us posted.

 

[Little]

This is what we did. Formed around old pad, prepared base,packed the hell out of it, put in helical piles(10),drilled 12"(approx) into existing slab every 4', drove 5/8 rebar into these holes (rebar 80" total) put down,tied rest of rebar to these. Poered concrete. We went from a 24x24 to 36x36 adding 6' to all sides. Did this in 2001 and no prob. so far. Even with serious wet conditions in Regina plains gumbo. I am not a contractor, wife, self and 2 friends did this over about 3 days. Hardest was drilling existing pad. Rented a huge hammer drill. (Try to drill above or below existing rebar) Worked for us, Mark

 

[Cyle]

This is what we did. Formed around old pad, prepared base,packed the hell out of it, put in helical piles(10),drilled 12"(approx) into existing slab every 4', drove 5/8 rebar into these holes (rebar 80" total) put down,tied rest of rebar to these. Poered concrete. We went from a 24x24 to 36x36 adding 6' to all sides. Did this in 2001 and no prob. so far. Even with serious wet conditions in Regina plains gumbo. I am not a contractor, wife, self and 2 friends did this over about 3 days. Hardest was drilling existing pad. Rented a huge hammer drill. (Try to drill above or below existing rebar) Worked for us, Mark

If existing pad is really good it can be done. But to make it the best epoxy rebar every 16" (should be drilled in every place), only need to drill in 4"-6" or so. With epoxy in, it will tear the concrete apart before that rebar will ever pull out. Do it all the time on bigger slabs with multiple pours instead of sticking rebar out.

But OP pad is 30 years old, way to old to be adding onto. Infact almost guaranteed if you tried to drill in you would see how soft the concrete has gotten. Plus that concrete is probably like 20 MPA if your REALLY lucky.

 

[CATPRIDE]

This is NOW an Approved Cyle THREAD.....................GOOD LUCK NO BOOST

 

[CATPRIDE]

This is what I would do if I was YOU.................bring in some buds........grab two Kegs of Beer minimum.......rent a couple jack hammers and get RID OF THE OLD pad.............then drink the kegs dry..........hire the cement crew and let them do it..................my 2 pennies

 

[E to the v]

Get rid of it. New slab will almost certainly crack if you pour over top.

 

[E to the v]

And if your gonna dish out the $ to build a new shop, it would be very obvious you cheaped out and poured aroumd 30 yr old conc

 

[gotboost]

And if your gonna dish out the $ to build a new shop, it would be very obvious you cheaped out and poured aroumd 30 yr old conc[/QUOTe

yeah i know what iam doing now out with the old in with the new way easier to start fresh again

 

[wildman]

Depending on where you live, i know of a great company that does it all. would take out the old floor and form up new one. can pm me if u want.

 

[CATPRIDE]

[/QUOTe

yeah i know what iam doing now out with the old in with the new way easier to start fresh again[/QUOTE]

So its a KEG PARTY?

 

[Cyle]

And if your gonna dish out the $ to build a new shop, it would be very obvious you cheaped out and poured aroumd 30 yr old conc[/QUOTe

yeah i know what iam doing now out with the old in with the new way easier to start fresh again

Yep for sure. If you are considering removing yourself, for sure get prices either way. Usually guys won't charge that much more to take it out, as if you have your own machine and truck it doesn't cost much, and usually if you have to rent stuff, your time it ain't worth it.

 

[gotboost]

i have a track bobcat and pride on the jack ass hammer we are all good hahaha

 

[X-it]

Of coarse you know what you have to do when exceeding 728 sq. ft or 30 feet

 

[gotboost]

iam guessing engineered plans got them allready

 

[X-it]

Well then plan view on your footings and you will have the answer to my statement. Make sure and use steel even though code does not require it. As far as the slab, only read who has done it (exact same job) and what where the results. I have seen bad results with even the best of prepped pre pours, but for the main part if the base is good the slab will be the same. There are some fantastic fabrics out there that completely eliminate cracks, they are not approved or used by anybody as of yet, but they work great.

 

[CATPRIDE]

Ummmmmmmm...................what about the beer?