Amsoil vs Rotella diesel oil

[tex78]

Your correct I went to a 5 hr oil seminar on oils and walmart and others put out bids to see who then can blend there oil the cheapest and the scale for base oil is 1 to 5 and 5 being the best walmart oils are a 2 on the scale they use ****ty base oils to blend there mix as for Coop uses a base oil of 4 way better but in the long run the more expensive the oil is the better the product and the difference between the oil companies is the detergent the use in there mix all the base oil are shipped from one company in the states so all the companies use the same base oils just some cheap out on the scale and go low grade to keep cost down

I really like coop xls synthetic 2 smoke oil

It's on sale here in a few weeks , get 4, 5l jugs for 40 a 5l

 

[Summitric]

Just an fyi... Some of the very best oils out there are the hydro-treated oils.... The "water washing" techniques clean almost 100% of the impurities in the oil stock ... The oil is basically clear, because it is so clean and pure. They actually add colouring to the oil to make it saleable... As per buyer surveys, people wouldn't by clear oils.


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[TDR]

Summitric you are correct except for one thing. Hydrotreated oils are pure not because of water washing but because the oil is processed across catalysts in the presence of hydrogen and hence the term hydrotreated. This is the same process used to make low sulfur fuels. It is amazing what finished oils look like compared to crude. Cool stuff to convert rotting dinosaurs into something useful.

 

[Anvil1010]

Sorry to derail your thread, but what about the Petro Can Duron oils for diesels? Yea or Nay? I thought they were supposed to be very good.

 

[AreWeThereYet]

Sorry to derail your thread, but what about the Petro Can Duron oils for diesels? Yea or Nay? I thought they were supposed to be very good.

Duron E 0W-40 is a good oil

 

[Summitric]

TDR.... Yup, I know all this and easiest just to say water washed or water purified .... Either way, BEST OF THE BEST oils, because it's so clean. Duron is incredible oil as well...


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[TDR]

Rick sorry just the pointy headed engineer in me!!

 

[Summitric]

Rick sorry just the pointy headed engineer in me!!

 

[2012rzr]

I have used Rotella T6 in the past and we run it in everything at work but about 4 years ago I switched to Chevron 5W40 synthetic and have been very pleased with it, it seems to stay cleaner longer. I have always wanted to try amsoil but I'm cheap and can't justify the price. I guess I should mention I run it in my F-350 Powerstroke

 

[Luke The Drifter]

I vote for Mobil Delvac 0w40. I've run it in my 04' 5.9, my 2012 6.7 and a previous employer used it in over 100 pieces of their heavy equipment with nothing but great results. Its priced right for a 100% synthetic oil and it performs extremely well. Rotella is good oil too but it can spendy. Instant starts and oil pressure in -20 and colder is a wonderful thing I do 15,000km services on my 6.7 with no issues.

 

[Phat Cat]

I use Amsoil in everything I own. Nice thing about it is the selection like chaincase oil, fuel additives etc. If you want to use amsoil become a prefered customer and buy at dealer price. Saves about 25% I think.

http://www.amsoil.com/opportunity.aspx?type=preferred

Here is how to find dealers.

AMSOIL Dealer, Retailer and Installer Locator

If you are from the Red Deer area call up John Moldowan. He stocks almost everything from Amsoil. That is who I buy from.

 

[fisherman420]

Been running rotella in my dmax since day 1 and still strong at 270000kms. 15w40 in summer and 5w40 in winter. I know a cummins owner who runs amsoil but I believe regular maintenance with a quality oil is the key factor. On a side note at work we have used mobil delvac, co-op, and petro can oils in heavy equipment and never had any issues motor-wise....some machines run 24hrs a day and have over 30,000hrs with original motors

 

[Phat Cat]

I change my oil every 10k. Yes Amsoil say you can run it longer but i hate the look of dirty oil.

 

[ZRrrr]

Shell Rotella T6 synthetic for my truck and my turbo sled. Did a lot of research before deciding. Came down to two things, levels of Zinc and Phosphorous (enginge protection) within the oil, and pictures of torn down engines that had been run hard using the Rotella T6. 10000K change intervals for the truck.

 

[Cdnfireman]

Use good quality oil and change it regularly. Synthetics have long since proven their advantages so most brand name high quality oils will do the job. Lots of people swear by amsoil but I'm not sure there's enough proven advantage to it to justify the extra cost.
The big threat to lubricants in our climate is condensation. It collects in the crankcase as our engines heat and cool. Hopefully the oil gets hot enough long enough to burn off the condensation but if it doesn't then it mixes with the sulphur in the small amount of unburnt fuel and byproducts of combustion that make it to the oil. This turns the oil slightly acidic and the additive packages in the oil work to combat this. That's why they measure the base number of the oil.
Anyone running extended change intervals runs the risk of a buildup of condensation and acidity, unless like a semi the oil rarely cools down to get contaminated by the condensation and its associated byproducts.
The cheapest thing we can do to our vehicles is maintain them. Spending an extra $100 a year to shorten the interval and keep cleaner oil in the engine is money well spent. If you do this for a ten year vehicle lifespan it's only an extra $1K. $1K doesn't last long when you're paying for an oil related failure of an engine part. Common sense IMHO.

 

[ZRrrr]

I run a very nice crank case catch can for this very reason. Works great!

Use good quality oil and change it regularly. Synthetics have long since proven their advantages so most brand name high quality oils will do the job. Lots of people swear by amsoil but I'm not sure there's enough proven advantage to it to justify the extra cost.
The big threat to lubricants in our climate is condensation. It collects in the crankcase as our engines heat and cool. Hopefully the oil gets hot enough long enough to burn off the condensation but if it doesn't then it mixes with the sulphur in the small amount of unburnt fuel and byproducts of combustion that make it to the oil. This turns the oil slightly acidic and the additive packages in the oil work to combat this. That's why they measure the base number of the oil.
Anyone running extended change intervals runs the risk of a buildup of condensation and acidity, unless like a semi the oil rarely cools down to get contaminated by the condensation and its associated byproducts.
The cheapest thing we can do to our vehicles is maintain them. Spending an extra $100 a year to shorten the interval and keep cleaner oil in the engine is money well spent. If you do this for a ten year vehicle lifespan it's only an extra $1K. $1K doesn't last long when you're paying for an oil related failure of an engine part. Common sense IMHO.

 

[mb1]

I think it was on "Bob is the oil guy" site I was reading that the majority of engine wear occurs during startup, because the oil isn't at operating temp. And that's normal temps, never mind the winters we see up here.

I run a pan heater with my block heater. The valve covers ( duramax ) are warm on a -30 morning. I figure no matter what oil you run it has to be warm to work.

Other thing is, there's a lot of talk on the web about this oil or that oil, but rarely do you see good solid facts. It's great if a guy has run X brand oil all his life and never had a problem, but the next guy has never changed his oil, and hasn't had one either. Different vehicles, different intervals, different service loads, etc. it's nearly impossible to get real info. JMO of course. I also believe in oil is cheap compared to motors.


'12 T4
Husaberg 570FE

 

[Absledder]

I think it was on "Bob is the oil guy" site I was reading that the majority of engine wear occurs during startup, because the oil isn't at operating temp. And that's normal temps, never mind the winters we see up here.

I run a pan heater with my block heater. The valve covers ( duramax ) are warm on a -30 morning. I figure no matter what oil you run it has to be warm to work.

Other thing is, there's a lot of talk on the web about this oil or that oil, but rarely do you see good solid facts. It's great if a guy has run X brand oil all his life and never had a problem, but the next guy has never changed his oil, and hasn't had one either. Different vehicles, different intervals, different service loads, etc. it's nearly impossible to get real info. JMO of course. I also believe in oil is cheap compared to motors.


'12 T4
Husaberg 570FE

A few guys I know run webasto heaters on there diesels and love them. The warm up and circulate the coolant so your entire engine is up to temp before it ever has to crank over. Another bonus is that your cab is nice and warm too.

 

[scottp]

Ended up using the Rotella T6. The UFA had it on sale for just under $37 for a 5L jug so it was quite a bit cheaper than the Amsoil.

 

[MADMAN]

Chevron 100% synthetic 5/40 for me. ( duramax)
Ran the shell for quite afew years but they have taken a few good additives out and switched the base oil a couple years back so not as good as it was.

Do you run this weight year round in your dmax?