850s with no issues

[indyxcsp]

Finally off BREAK IN and have 700 kms. Dealer performed first service and I have had a couple rides in since. Found I needed to adjust clickers to 2 from 3 as I was pulling near 8200rpm. Should get me close. Belt was well broken in on some long distance trails in the beginning and it still looks great. Almost no belt dust. Oil Consumption is acceptable. I have hit some rocks early season and i was scared after hearing some stories but all is good. Coming off my NYTRO and DAys of Polaris..... the T-MOTION is taking some getting used to. Never ever consider writing a review until I have had Seat time but this is the nicest sled I have ever owned. Got three days coming up in Wells BC again so we will see what the clutching changes did to bring RPM down the 200 I need. I love the fit and finish. Dealer told me to make sure to clean your Footwells out where the snow does accumulate and get the airflow moving. I have found thats the only place it will build up. 2017 850 Summit X 154x3"

 

[svtman]

curious... did you disconnect your sway bar?

Nope, everything is stock. No skid plate and sway bar stays connected for this guy.

 

[noob]

I've got the same story as you indyxcsp. I've been on Yamaha for 9 years and polaris and couldn't be happier with the 850. The absolute best sled I have ever had. Just put a baker skid in it, diamond s can and it's a ripper. I really feel bad for the guys experiencing issues with this sled. Hope skidoo gets something going for you fellers.

 

[Rotax_Kid]

Finally off BREAK IN and have 700 kms. Dealer performed first service and I have had a couple rides in since. Found I needed to adjust clickers to 2 from 3 as I was pulling near 8200rpm. Should get me close. Belt was well broken in on some long distance trails in the beginning and it still looks great. Almost no belt dust. Oil Consumption is acceptable. I have hit some rocks early season and i was scared after hearing some stories but all is good. Coming off my NYTRO and DAys of Polaris..... the T-MOTION is taking some getting used to. Never ever consider writing a review until I have had Seat time but this is the nicest sled I have ever owned. Got three days coming up in Wells BC again so we will see what the clutching changes did to bring RPM down the 200 I need. I love the fit and finish. Dealer told me to make sure to clean your Footwells out where the snow does accumulate and get the airflow moving. I have found thats the only place it will build up. 2017 850 Summit X 154x3"

Don't expect to drop top end RPM with the clickers. They don't work quite the same as a TRA.

 

[Rotax_Kid]

I have a few hundred miles on my 154 x 2.5.


So far its been a real good machine. Motor is strong and very responsive. Handles quite well. Belt is a nice green tinge just like my 800s and clutches are showing full shift.

All in all at this point, nicest BRP 2 stroke I've ridden.

I like the open footwells.

Like how easy it is to fill with oil

Primary super easy to work on. If you are doing pivot weight changes make sure you take an actual allen key. I've noticed the bolts can get pretty snug in there and the stock tool doesn't have enough leverage to break free.

Hood comes off real easy once you do it once or twice. Airbox boot fits really well.

I haven't ridden a stock suspended machine for a while. I'm waiting for parts here but have to say their stock calibration is avtually pretty good thus far.


Some things which I'm on the fence over...

Midrange RPM primary has a annoying whine.

The tmotion action almost seems more pronounced with this design. Machine can throw you around quite quick if your weight too imbalanced

Wish ot had a analogue gauge for clutch work...digital is hard to follow

My chaincase cover is already starting to lose paint. My 14 with a few thousand miles didn't

Tensioning a chain by hand is challenging...don't like this design.


Its not perfect and I'm well aware of the issues some are having but this far I'm quite happy. Little clutching and gearing has potential for some nice gains.

 

[Rotax_Kid]

Double post...

 

[indyxcsp]

Don't expect to drop top end RPM with the clickers. They don't work quite the same as a TRA.

hmmmmmm - 210 kms this weekend on clicker two and my RPM went to 7900. Still on the same belt and it looks good! I also think I'm getting the T-motion figured out!

 

[CodyR]

400+ on both of ours and zero issues. Removed foam and added some venting have not went through a belt yet or anything.
https://youtu.be/4i-N1a2U6MY
Here was the last ride a few days ago.

 

[Merc63]

50km, done break in and liking the machine more and more everytime I ride it. The handling and predictability is spot on.

No issues, runs like a champ.

 

[CodyR]

50km, done break in and liking the machine more and more everytime I ride it. The handling and predictability is spot on.
No issues, runs like a champ.

You finished break in with only 50km?

 

[Rotax_Kid]

hmmmmmm - 210 kms this weekend on clicker two and my RPM went to 7900. Still on the same belt and it looks good! I also think I'm getting the T-motion figured out!

What I was getting at, and I may have worded it a little cryptic, is that the clickers in a pDrive, even though the Owner's Manual states it's a top end RPM adjustable design, really aren't. Since you cannot change the mass of the ramp/flyweight, the only options to drop RPM with this design is to either move the weight away from the clutch centerline or reduce final spring force. If you really get down to the nitty gritty of the pDrive's design, the largest affect the clickers are actually having on the ramp profile is the early on achievable side force. If you cycle the ramp through all clicker positions, you will see the tip of the flyweight arcs around it's pivot point. What this means is the center of gravity of the flyweight only articulates and should result in a multiple positions (1/5 and 2/4) achieving the same top end centrifugal force. It took me a while to grasp this and I did have some help from a few people along the way to piece what's going on together. Experiment with the clicker some more and you'll likely find you don't have the range it appears you might.

Dynamo Joe's found the same results via his website -

Clicker position is NOT for changing engine speed at full throttle
(NOTE - I will post force diagrams of different clicker positions to show what the positions do on the upshift and "Track speed" (shift ratio) AND engine speed change)

The clicker only changes the way the clutch pushes off the very bottom end.
You can make the clutch feel "revvy" or "less revvy" being more aggressive.
You must change engine speed with pivot bolt weight - THEE END
The clickers are NOT there to change engine speed like the older TRA.
If you put the clicker down to #1 it will be the most revvy....and still 7900-8000
If you put the clicker up to #5 it will be the least revvy, most aggressive...and still 7900-8000
If you are running say 8100 with 14.7 grams pivot then no matter what clicker you are on, you must add 1 full gram and go to 15.7 grams pivot to push the engine speed down to 7900

QUOTE BRP MANUAL
In position 1 and 2 the engine will reach its peak power rpm very quickly with some overshoot. This means that the drive clutch will apply less pressure on the belt in its transition between engagement speed and peak rpms. This could be desirable in fluffy snow conditions that offer little traction.
Position 3 represents a good all-around position where there is only minimal rpm overshoot. This position should give good vehicle acceleration in the normal snow conditions.
In position 4 and 5 the clutch will clamp the belt very early after engagement, slowing down the climb in rpm. This can be beneficial in wet snow where a lot of traction is available.


Definitely not trying to burn you at the stake here...new design, new quirks..we're all learning something each time we go out and I'm sure the P85 guys are laughing at our revelations! ALl about generating more conversation so we can all learn.

 

[pfi572]

What I was getting at, and I may have worded it a little cryptic, is that the clickers in a pDrive, even though the Owner's Manual states it's a top end RPM adjustable design, really aren't. Since you cannot change the mass of the ramp/flyweight, the only options to drop RPM with this design is to either move the weight away from the clutch centerline or reduce final spring force. If you really get down to the nitty gritty of the pDrive's design, the largest affect the clickers are actually having on the ramp profile is the early on achievable side force. If you cycle the ramp through all clicker positions, you will see the tip of the flyweight arcs around it's pivot point. What this means is the center of gravity of the flyweight only articulates and should result in a multiple positions (1/5 and 2/4) achieving the same top end centrifugal force. It took me a while to grasp this and I did have some help from a few people along the way to piece what's going on together. Experiment with the clicker some more and you'll likely find you don't have the range it appears you might.

Dynamo Joe's found the same results via his website -

Clicker position is NOT for changing engine speed at full throttle
(NOTE - I will post force diagrams of different clicker positions to show what the positions do on the upshift and "Track speed" (shift ratio) AND engine speed change)

The clicker only changes the way the clutch pushes off the very bottom end.
You can make the clutch feel "revvy" or "less revvy" being more aggressive.
You must change engine speed with pivot bolt weight - THEE END
The clickers are NOT there to change engine speed like the older TRA.
If you put the clicker down to #1 it will be the most revvy....and still 7900-8000
If you put the clicker up to #5 it will be the least revvy, most aggressive...and still 7900-8000
If you are running say 8100 with 14.7 grams pivot then no matter what clicker you are on, you must add 1 full gram and go to 15.7 grams pivot to push the engine speed down to 7900

QUOTE BRP MANUAL
In position 1 and 2 the engine will reach its peak power rpm very quickly with some overshoot. This means that the drive clutch will apply less pressure on the belt in its transition between engagement speed and peak rpms. This could be desirable in fluffy snow conditions that offer little traction.
Position 3 represents a good all-around position where there is only minimal rpm overshoot. This position should give good vehicle acceleration in the normal snow conditions.
In position 4 and 5 the clutch will clamp the belt very early after engagement, slowing down the climb in rpm. This can be beneficial in wet snow where a lot of traction is available.


Definitely not trying to burn you at the stake here...new design, new quirks..we're all learning something each time we go out and I'm sure the P85 guys are laughing at our revelations! ALl about generating more conversation so we can all learn.

Good job !! I was wondering when someone would post this ?

 

[snopro]

You finished break in with only 50km?

He must have missed a zero?

 

[Caper11]

What I was getting at, and I may have worded it a little cryptic, is that the clickers in a pDrive, even though the Owner's Manual states it's a top end RPM adjustable design, really aren't. Since you cannot change the mass of the ramp/flyweight, the only options to drop RPM with this design is to either move the weight away from the clutch centerline or reduce final spring force. If you really get down to the nitty gritty of the pDrive's design, the largest affect the clickers are actually having on the ramp profile is the early on achievable side force. If you cycle the ramp through all clicker positions, you will see the tip of the flyweight arcs around it's pivot point. What this means is the center of gravity of the flyweight only articulates and should result in a multiple positions (1/5 and 2/4) achieving the same top end centrifugal force. It took me a while to grasp this and I did have some help from a few people along the way to piece what's going on together. Experiment with the clicker some more and you'll likely find you don't have the range it appears you might.

Dynamo Joe's found the same results via his website -

Clicker position is NOT for changing engine speed at full throttle
(NOTE - I will post force diagrams of different clicker positions to show what the positions do on the upshift and "Track speed" (shift ratio) AND engine speed change)

The clicker only changes the way the clutch pushes off the very bottom end.
You can make the clutch feel "revvy" or "less revvy" being more aggressive.
You must change engine speed with pivot bolt weight - THEE END
The clickers are NOT there to change engine speed like the older TRA.
If you put the clicker down to #1 it will be the most revvy....and still 7900-8000
If you put the clicker up to #5 it will be the least revvy, most aggressive...and still 7900-8000
If you are running say 8100 with 14.7 grams pivot then no matter what clicker you are on, you must add 1 full gram and go to 15.7 grams pivot to push the engine speed down to 7900

QUOTE BRP MANUAL
In position 1 and 2 the engine will reach its peak power rpm very quickly with some overshoot. This means that the drive clutch will apply less pressure on the belt in its transition between engagement speed and peak rpms. This could be desirable in fluffy snow conditions that offer little traction.
Position 3 represents a good all-around position where there is only minimal rpm overshoot. This position should give good vehicle acceleration in the normal snow conditions.
In position 4 and 5 the clutch will clamp the belt very early after engagement, slowing down the climb in rpm. This can be beneficial in wet snow where a lot of traction is available.


Definitely not trying to burn you at the stake here...new design, new quirks..we're all learning something each time we go out and I'm sure the P85 guys are laughing at our revelations! ALl about generating more conversation so we can all learn.

Great write up Geoff! Thanks for posting this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Merc63]

Clicker 1 and 2 would create more clutch heat...?

 

[pfi572]

Clicker 1 and 2 would create more clutch heat...?

Yes it would.

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

Clicker 1 produces an overrev on my sled and revvy as heck when I do slow wrong foot forward on a sidehill.

As I go higher in clicker position the clutch feels more “meaty” and draws more engine torque out of it.
Ive only got to test to #3 and instead of going 80 feet (16 guard rail posts) im able to go 120 feet (24 guard rail posts) before I get stinky belt smell.
And at clicker #3 the connection between my thumb and the ground is tighter.

Dint matter stock clutching or with my parts installed.
I was doing wrong foot forward test in semi-setup big grainy, no bottom sugary snow to where the vehicle speed (not track speed) is going fast enough like speed walking. Id count the guard rails and get a whiff of the belt, turn out go down get on this railbed. Give the belt a break and watch others fk around. Take another turn, clicker #2...
Clicker 3 go the longest and then stinky belt smell. ugh.

Gona try 4 and 5 this weekend coming up somewhere.

Trying to pick apart the clutching in its component parts "bottom end' "midrange", etc.

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

Holy cow this is fked....
Page 136 2017 race manual

ADJUSTMENT
This adjustable drive pulley allows setting maximum engine RPM in the vehicle to maintain maximum power. The adjustment has an effect on high RPM only.

Ramp cam should be adjusted so that actual maximum engine RPM in vehicle matches the maximum horsepower RPM given in Technical Specifications.

To adjust, modify ramp end position by turning ramp cams (3x) [shows pic of clicker]
Each number modifies maximum engine RPM by about 200 RPM.

Lower numbers decrease engine RPM in steps by about 200 RPM.

For example: Ramp cam is set at position 3 and is changed to position 5. So maximum engine RPM is increased by 400 RPM

Hmm...you know what? Bull-jack-schitt that's happening!

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

I did not test clicker 4 or 5 on the side hill test.
What i did find with 5 though is engine speed dropped as my track speed increased in a pull at 50+mph. Especially when getting into a wheelie and then coming down.....8000 to 7700ish. I can hear it and see the engine speed drop.
Clicker 3 the engine speed did not drop going up this same hill.

so...
Im just going to keep repeating whatever i can do to try and get the same results and sort it out.

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

Force charts - clicky