850s with no issues

[Rotax_Kid]

Holy cow this is fked....
Page 136 2017 race manual


Hmm...you know what? Bull-jack-schitt that's happening!

Joey...can see where people are getting confused...me included..owners manual has same verbage

 

[Utter_Kaos]

So what clicker should I guy use for best over all range


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[Caper11]

Please note, his chart is to show the weight change of the clickers that will make the "rpm overshoot" worse or better. Clicker 3 is the neutral position.
In lower clickers the rpm will flash higher make the sled buzzy and not pull as hard than in higher clicker settings. The opposite of what we are used to with the old tra.

If guys are trying to tune their sleds please do not use the Max rpm function on that horrible gauge. I wish the G4 summits came with the xm gauge package cause digital gauges do not track as quick as the analog gauge.

I do not believe the 200rpm per clicker position for controlling max rpm like the race book or the owners manual says.
Reason being is the clutching I'm running in my 174 the clickers only changes the rpm 100 per position. I read somewhere or was told but cannot recall where, that the pDrive changes the max rpm 30 or 60rpm and with the design of the pDrive it seem likely to me that's the case, if there is much of a noticeable change at all.


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[Andystoy]

In regards to info from BRP posts number 71 and 78:
Owners manual page 142 states that "the adjustable drive pulley allows setting maximum engine RPM to maintain maximum engine power. Ramp cams should be adjusted so that the actual maximum engine RPM matches the maximum horsepower RPM."
Shop manual Rev G4 section 06 subsection 2 adjustment bottom of page 314: "The adjustable drive pulley allows setting maximum engine RPM in the vehicle to maintain maximum power. The adjustment has an effect on high RPM only".
My sled is a Summit X 165 3" with 260 km/162 miles at 59 % break in left came set on clicker 3 so I did not attempt any wide open pulls during early break in. Last few kilometers I set the clutch to clicker 1 and tried several wide open pulls on a nice smooth section of the river at 700m/2300' altitude reaching a top speed of about 122 km/76 mph with the tach showing a steady 8000 RPM (Speed limited by safe distance not clutching etc.) which is right on spec from the owners handbook of 7900 +/_ 100 RPM. After the runs the primary clutch had used all but about the last 1/2" of travel with no rubber marks just where my black marker was scuffed off. The snow conditions here are minimal with only enough snow for lubrication and traction. I have broken in two new belts during the break in distance of 162 miles with minimal dust etc.and both look like new. I haven't had the chance to go out again and try several WOT runs on the same day within minutes of each other to test the the change in engine RPM vs a change in clicker position but at this time I think it will be in the ballpark of 200 RPM/click. I look forward to going to Valemount soon to see how the clutching works in the steeper and deeper.

The reason for citing the doo info is that it is very consistent no matter where you read the info: the owners manual, the shop manual or the racing manual (don't have) that maximum engine RPM can be controlled by adjusting the clicker settings up or down to allow the engine to remain in the 7900 +/- range depending on the power its putting out at that elevation; providing it had the right kit installed when delivered.

Back to the original thread of "850's with no issues: 850 Summit X 165 x 3" Estart 260km/162 miles, 59 % break in left, mid height windshield, adjustable limiter strap etc. Adjusted deflection once per new belt, tightened chain about 1 1/2 turns total, adjusted track once about 1/2 turn, used about 0.6 gals of synthetic oil, 45L/11.9 gals of gasoline estimated quantities. 13.6 mpg US and oil ratio of about 22.7 to one. Engine is running much smoother now and extra oil injected should be done at 6 hours as I now have 9 1/2 engine hours. Happy with the sled as delivered so far, waiting on RPM composite belly pan and will remove the stock Skidoo one that doesn't protect much of anything? Remember that this sled has been broken in on lake and river riding not steep and deep?

I look forward to the development of better clutch kits but find it confusing when the manufacturer states how the P drive should work and others say it doesn't. Time will tell.

 

[Kakwasledder]

I agree, I also read that the clickers wont raise or lower rpm. I did some testing this weekend and can confirm that each clicker position is about 200 rpm, give or take. I have added about 4.5 grams on each bolt and am running 8000 rpm on clicker 3. I moved up to clicker 4 and was running 8200-8300. I did not try clicker 5 because I did not want to over rev that much. I then tried clicker 1 and was only getting 7400-7600 and was very inconsistent. I did not try position 2 either. This was on the same hill with windswept snow but was still a good pull. These are my findings.

 

[Powpowpow]

I look forward to when all the 2017 owners break there e and s mod. All a matter of when it will happen not if. Brp should change the way they test the Prototypes.

Ive broken 2 one riding on the trail bounced off a rock and other not sure what it was there was cracks in the cast when i took it to dealer.

oh well just money and will never buy a 1st season sled again no matter how much so called testing was done.

 

[snowhunter]

Just curious if ur sway bar was attached or not on those 2 failures.....ive smashed mine off of stuff and no damage yet ...it's hit things I'm sure woulda tweaked my 15 t3....i owned an 09 800 polaris so I know the pain

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[towerrigger]

I look forward to when all the 2017 owners break there e and s mod.

Aren't you a ray of sunshine! LOL.

I guess I've been lucky so far. Bounced off some boulders hard enough to gouge the ski and wear bar up and throw me off the sled. I guess it depends where the hit occurs.

 

[ferniesnow]

Fixed it for you.

 

[LUCKY 7]

atta boy Ferniesnow

 

[Merc63]

Of course it does. They only engineer bracing to take so many hits. I'd assume a side hit would cause more damage than a straight on hit.

If people think changes will be made in the 18s they are dreaming.

 

[birdie]

Say Ferniesnow have a couple of questions for you
Tell me more about the scag you run

It looks like you are running a straight steel scag and why
Have you had bad experiences with the carbide runner
Seems like you would be replacing the steel 2 or 3 times a year

I am interested to hear what your experience is

Birdie

 

[drew562]

Say Ferniesnow have a couple of questions for you
Tell me more about the scag you run

It looks like you are running a straight steel scag and why
Have you had bad experiences with the carbide runner
Seems like you would be replacing the steel 2 or 3 times a year

I am interested to hear what your experience is

Birdie

The carbides will bite rocks and sharp edges. With some bulkheads cracking from light hooks on rocks the steel wear bar should help it slide over with less impact.

 

[ferniesnow]

The carbides will bite rocks and sharp edges. With some bulkheads cracking from light hooks on rocks the steel wear bar should help it slide over with less impact.

Say Ferniesnow have a couple of questions for you
Tell me more about the scag you run

It looks like you are running a straight steel scag and why
Have you had bad experiences with the carbide runner
Seems like you would be replacing the steel 2 or 3 times a year

I am interested to hear what your experience is

Birdie

What Drew said. I have run the mild steel for years as I don't like the carbides on the rocks in the creeks and we have several of those to cross where we have no bridges. Then there is the part where they gouge the aluminum ramps (my ramp has the SuperGlides on it but over the course of the winter there will be gouges from the carbides) and mark the concrete in the shop. Yes, I use 2-3 pair a year but I am not a fan of the carbides for the reasons I mentioned.

 

[ferniesnow]

1200 km on my 850 and not a hitch; stock belt still looks like new and the bulk head is intact. Sway bar is disconnected on both sides and I haven't experienced a problem. Oops, I forgot about the filter material on the air intakes. Not holding up well. Heavy duty covers have been ordered.

400 km on my wife's 850 and no issues either. Sway bar has also been disconnected. Also, her air intake will get the heavy duty covers. Trees are closer together this year with the low snow...............hahahahaha

Both CVT's have been bastardized to get air flow.

I would say that the PDI at Bow Ridge in Cochrane was excellent and that has made a difference.

 

[birdie]

Thanks for the review and good to hear

Any photos of the CVT I cut the bottom part off Did you drill holes in the side or aluminum

Send them to 780-719-6220 Cell

Birdie

 

[snopro]

Of course it does. They only engineer bracing to take so many hits. I'd assume a side hit would cause more damage than a straight on hit.

If people think changes will be made in the 18s they are dreaming.

Why do you say that Merc? BRP would be crazy not to make these bulkheads stronger for next year. My thinking is if they are covering some of the case repairs this season they are admitting some fault? No?

 

[drew562]

Why do you say that Merc? BRP would be crazy not to make these bulkheads stronger for next year. My thinking is if they are covering some of the case repairs this season they are admitting some fault? No?

I'm told CKMP is buzzing with well known sled builders and engineers coming and going. Plans and fixes will on the way. Specialty sleds has a team tied conversion shaft already. Its a proto only for now but soon they will be available

 

[ferniesnow]

Thanks for the review and good to hear

Any photos of the CVT I cut the bottom part off Did you drill holes in the side or aluminum

Send them to 780-719-6220 Cell

Birdie

Yes, I drilled a bunch of 1/2" diameter holes in the plastic and aluminum. No pictures at this time.

 

[Merc63]

Why do you say that Merc? BRP would be crazy not to make these bulkheads stronger for next year. My thinking is if they are covering some of the case repairs this season they are admitting some fault? No?

Did you read what Norora said in the 850 vs Axys thread? Just confirmed my thoughts, nothing will change mechanically.

He basically said it was a tiny group having issues and early season snow/rocks causing bulkheads.

If on the chance they do make changes what happens to all the guys who bought these machines this season? Rung out to dry?