24 valve or 12 cummins

[dezmitchell]

Looking to buy a diesel for my tow vehicle and I'm fixed on a cummins here's the plan


Ext cab
4x4---obvoiusly
5-6 speed manual
long box ---that will be flat decked
would be happy with 400hp truck will not stay stock for long

truck will pretty much be a hwy runner only I just want it for the rzr and camper in the summer and a sled hauler in the winter

12 valve will run for ever/cheap-free mods/no electrical old school power and reliability/only really have to watch for the KDP

24 valve is a bit more modern/more power/ perhaps more cold weather friendly/ but one has to watch the vp44 and lift pump

Looking at an older diesel because I want to keep my gas pot for a daily driver and can't justify a $30000 used diesel that's only gets 10000k-15000 a year max.

who has experence with both trucks and what seems to be a better choice for me needs


personally I like the power and modern touch of a 24 valve but the lift pump and vp 44 piling up scare me.....and yes there will be a fuel pressure guage in what ever I buy but u still never know with a 10+ year old truck

how ever one can still get good power from a 12 valve and they seem to run FOREVER

MY #1 is reliability I don't want my tow rig to leave me stranded

budget $7500ish. Seen a few for the 15g mark and that's crazy for an old truck

 

[52weekbreak]

We bought a 2008 3500 CC 4X4 long box automatic with the 6.7. Always ran nice and was fairly good on fuel. My son replaced the exhaust and did a pollution delete with the programmer. Now routinely gets 25 MPG empty and 20 towing and the power is great. Has 200 K on it now and no issues except for the exhaust falling apart. They definitely are holding their value though and if you can find an old one for $7,500, I imagine you will have to deal with rust in addition to the old cabs and suspension. Good luck and hope to see pics of what you wind up getting

 

[moyiesledhead]

My son's '94 12 valve ran around 30-35mpg, my '01 first gen 24 valve (and every other one I know about) is lucky to get 16mpg and the body is turning into a pile of rust as I type this. Both my son's & nephew's '04 commom rail 24 valves are no better for economy, but the body's are holding up a lot better. My Cummins will run forever, but it'll be driving a gen set 'cuz the truck will have fallen apart by then!

There.....that's all I know.

 

[neilsleder]

Get a 12 valve and put a 24 head and valve terrain on it! That way you can have the cheap and easy power but the good flow of the 24 valves. There's not a motor out there that will out last a 12 cable cummins


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[Nytroman]

If I had more time I would put a 12 valve into a nice chevy chassis, then could still have a crew cab. I also only put 2000-5000 km on per year on my tow truck and wont have a new truck sitting here again loosing money. I have a V-10 but don't pass many gas stations when I does go out.

The $7500 rage I found the km issues were more interior wear than mechanical, oh and rust. there is the odd one I have seen from the south that looked good but not many under 10k and the dollar sucks.

 

[Nytroman]

If I had more time I would put a 12 valve into a nice chevy chassis, then could still have a crew cab. I also only put 2000-5000 km on per year on my tow truck and wont have a new truck sitting here again loosing money. I have a V-10 but don't pass many gas stations when I does go out.
I have been browsin
$7500 rage I found the km issues were more interior wear than mechanical, oh and rust. there is the odd one I have seen from the south that looked good but not many under 10k and the dollar sucks.

 

[dezmitchell]

Well the box will be coming off so that's a big rust issue gone and I've already priced out front fenders there not to bad

as far as the 24 valve on a 12 valve motor one needs to swap Pistons because of how the injector sits and there is a few other things that need to be done I don't wana dive that far into it

plans are

Guages
chip/fuel plate+ Fass or air dog if I end up goin with 24v
exhaust
air
clutch
maybe injectors

that will be the max amount of mods I will do

 

[moyiesledhead]

Well the box will be coming off so that's a big rust issue gone

My box is the only part NOT rusty. My doors and rockers are long gone.

 

[handyandy]

I have a 97 12 valve and love it. I'm running 5x0.012 injectors, 62/65/12 turbo, #8 fuel plate and 15.5° timing. It tows really good, have to watch egt's pretty close when towing heavy though. I hit 1500° briefly when I was towing a 20000lb tractor and I'm likely only putting out 350 horses, usually it's only 1100-1200° when I'm towing. If you got a 24 valve you could turn the chip down when your towing and your egt's would be lower.

 

[Bnorth]

I would look at upping your budget a bit and getting into a 3rd gen quad cab. The 12er's are a pain to get anything in and out of the back and the 24v's are better but you still can't fit a human back there for any more than a ten minute drive. My 24v didn't get very good mileage but my 12v didn't either. I like being able to adjust power on the fly with the 24v. Empty crank it to extreme for passing power and better mileage due to more timing. Got a 15k lb trailer on, turn it down to tow and hammer on it. My 24v had an edge chip, twin disc southbend, intake, 4" exhaust, and 110hp sticks. It probably made around 400whp and it was fun but with the handshaker would never be fast. I just upgraded to a crewcab and will never go back.

My box is the only part NOT rusty. My doors and rockers are long gone.

I just sold my 99 cause it was starting to rust and I wanted to get rid of it before the value dropped out the bottom. I held on to my 12v too long and it was pretty damn rotten.

 

[bkoz]

With a $7500 budget have an extra $3000 kicking around for repairs. A $7500 old diesel will need work...

 

[dezmitchell]

With a $7500 budget have an extra $3000 kicking around for repairs. A $7500 old diesel will need work...

There out there I'm not looking for a mint truck here just looking for a tow rig to have at my disposal when needed

1994 2002 Dodge Pickup Truck Diesel | Find Great Deals on Used and New Cars & Trucks in Alberta | Kijiji Classifieds

 

[dodgeram18]

I had an 02 24v 47re for 5 years before my 12 and I loved it, I miss it every day. Older diesels are built solid but there are many front end components that will need replacement or work when on a tight budget. steering box sucks, wheel bearings are kinda weak, ball joints are hit and miss( i never had to replace any in my 5 years of ownership) standard nv4500 is good nv5600 is better for towing since 1st is geared so low but useless if not towing heavy loads or starting on hill tows. with the 24 valve sovp44 is a better injection pump and it will last 400k or more with the right fuel supply since fuel lubricates the vp44 so get a fass or similar lift pump and get a fuel gauge, you dont need to worry about head studs until you upgrade that stock hx/hy35 unless its a hovp44 model then it is possible to pop the head with stock turbo from how the pump timing is set up. stock head bolts can be retorqued to hold over 500rwhp tho i just never tried for myself since i went all out and built a 600hp twin turbo auto daily driver. If i were to do it again i would go manual with a clutch and mild tuning.first fass then 100/150hp injectors with the edge hot unlocked and retorqued head bolts. done. fairly inexpensive yet dependable to daily drive.

 

[dodgeram18]

And if you are going to buy aftermarket parts shop nowhere else but : Diesel performance parts. Cummins, Duramax, Powerstroke. best deals around.

 

[kennyblatz]

i wouldnt let the vp pump scare you ethier truck you will want a new lift pump and a new vp44 is 1200 bucks in edmonton. changed my injectors in the parking lot at work once easy truvks to work on ...miss my 98 24v

 

[DRD]

Look for a 98 with the suicide doors, or get a 24V. The Ford 7.3 trucks are good as well, may not have the grunt of a Cummins but the rest of the truck is better IMO.

 

[MiledOut]

there is always the Fummins swap, 6l are cheap

 

[lloydguy]

I drive a 24valve,6speed. Not the newest or greatest thing on the planet,but hey it get's me
where I goda go.My steering box brace and 75 hp stix are from jcobb at DAP as listed above.
Good guy to deal with and his injector's are flow matched to a higher standard than OEM or anyone
esle on the market as far as I know. I got more HP and better fuel economy. You don't have to get sucked
into the whole buy a FASS or airdog BS or your cummins will blow up crap either.
I replaced the lift pump on the block with a better OEM type pump and mounted it by the tank (where it
should have been in the first place)and changed all of the lines to 1/2" instead of the stock 10mm or
whatever they were.Keeps 15 psi to the VP 44 at all times,that's all that really matter's IMO.
Also have fuel preasure/pyro/boost on the pillar.As you said fuel is the most important.
Summer 21-23 MPG is no problem,winter 16/17 depending on idle hours.
Ford 7.3 is also a Very good powerplant and rides alot better than my cummins as well.

 

[dodgeram18]

I have to give my 2 cents and disagree with part of the statement above. Any upgraded lift pump WILL save your Vp44. Just something to think about whether it's a holly $200-300 pump or a fass $600-900 pump it will extend the life of your injection pump. First thing to do is get a fuel psi gauge and don't let it dip below 5 psi, 3 psi and damage will start to occur. If you feel dead pedal immediately let off and don't demand a dry injection pump. It all depends on your budget how you want to build it. Join cummins forum. LOTS of great info on there. And as a wise man once said:
Powerful, reliable, inexpensive - pick any two but you can't have the third.

 

[DRD]

I have to give my 2 cents and disagree with part of the statement above. Any upgraded lift pump WILL save your Vp44. Just something to think about whether it's a holly $200-300 pump or a fass $600-900 pump it will extend the life of your injection pump. First thing to do is get a fuel psi gauge and don't let it dip below 5 psi, 3 psi and damage will start to occur. If you feel dead pedal immediately let off and don't demand a dry injection pump. It all depends on your budget how you want to build it. Join cummins forum. LOTS of great info on there. And as a wise man once said:
Powerful, reliable, inexpensive - pick any two but you can't have the third.

I ran a relocated stock pump with 1/2" lines, couldn't suck it under 9Psi with drag comp and 65HP sticks.