2016 Proclimb Electrical Problems

[Jjanke]

Okay so the last two trips I have ran into some electrical issues and I believe they are linked and want to get some thoughts on it. I’ll try my best to describe the entire situation and my findings so far.

Installed new cfr handle bars and cat handle bar controls(previous ones were both cracked/damaged) on my 16 cat this summer. First trip out 2 weeks ago, my bar warmers quit working half way through the day. Got it home and determined that it blew the 15A fuse. Replaced the fuse before this weekends trip and thought all was well.

Go up the trail Saturday and head to the back. After a few hours of riding, I started my sled and noticed that the needle on the gauge was bouncing back and forth as if it was continuously getting RE started. Shut the sled off and scratched my head. Went to start it again and the gauge had no power. Began to check harnesses and couldn’t find anything. Checked the fuses and this time it blew the 7.5A middle fuse which controls the gauge and the power valves so it was obviously running like crap.

Put the 15A fuse from the handlebar warmers into the gauge and power valve fuse location to attempt to make it out. As a test, I left the hood unhooked hoping it would not blow the fuse and it did not. Everything was running okay and got out of the bowl okay. Went to plug the harness in, and the gauge immediately started jumping around/ RE setting.

Tried to un plug my speedometer harness from my belt drive (which quit working mid season last year). Started the sled and all was okay. Gauge was normal and running well.

Ran the rest of the day like this and seemed to run okay. Until near the end of the day when my sled gauge was reading an output of 5.3 volts instead of 14 ish like it should. By the end of the day, my gauge would keep the setting any time that additional power was being drawn from the sled such as turning my Hugh beam on. Also lost the tail light by the end of the day and seemed like the headlight was dim.

My original thought was the voltage regulator, but not certain this is a common issue, or maybe I could have caused it with my new controls and bar setup that was bought from a guy parting out his 13 proclimb.

Very long description but fairly complicated issue that I need to sort out.

My question here is it it is the voltage regulator, could the early signs of it fails be power surging certain systems causing the fuses to pop? And now as it continues to fail, losing the ability to provide adequate voltage to the sleds electric components?

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[mountianguy]

I believe the regulator is in the ecm, sounds like you may have a failed stator. Simple to check with an ohm meter, I sold my 16 and with it went the manual but any decent dealer will give you the specs and which wires to check. I would open up all connectors and inspect for corrosion / resistance reassemble with dielectric grease.Check all harness for damage etc.

 

[readimedic]

If you are blowing random fuses, you are getting spikes in voltage. Check your voltage regulator. Its on the right side of that sled, mag side, or even replace it.
Always use dielectric grease. Keeps out moisture.

 

[Allseasons]

I’d put money on the stator, and one side being fried. I’m on my third,
and an aftermarket stator at that. I’d check it for resistance before buying a regulator.

 

[Jjanke]

I’d put money on the stator, and one side being fried. I’m on my third,
and an aftermarket stator at that. I’d check it for resistance before buying a regulator.

Thanks, I will look to do a test on the stator first. Can use a standard multi-meter for this no? I believe these sleds have a plug in that makes the stator wires accessible to test fairly easily? Ill look to see if i can find a thread with some steps to do the stator test.

 

[mountianguy]

Sorry the regulator is separate on these and not in the ecm i was thinking of something else. Have you found the problem yet?

 

[Jjanke]

Sorry the regulator is separate on these and not in the ecm i was thinking of something else. Have you found the problem yet?

I haven’t found the problem yet.

Did an ohm test on the stator today and got the following resistances. Anyone able to confirm that these numbers are about right?

Charge coil 1 - 11.2 ohms
Charge coil 2 - 11.2 ohms
Lighting coil - 0.5 ohms

 

[readimedic]

Are you using an ordinary ohm meter? I found that an ordinary ohm meter does not give accurate numbers on a stator. I have tried two of them.
There is a reason why Cat uses a Fluke meter, alot more accurate. Your lighting coil is a little low. .08-.12.
Charge coils arefrom 8.8-13.2.
Check your spark plug caps and coils too.
Voltage reg. is 10-15 DC, 11-14 AC

 

[Jjanke]

Are you using an ordinary ohm meter? I found that an ordinary ohm meter does not give accurate numbers on a stator. I have tried two of them.
There is a reason why Cat uses a Fluke meter, alot more accurate. Your lighting coil is a little low. .08-.12.
Charge coils arefrom 8.8-13.2.
Check your spark plug caps and coils too.
Voltage reg. is 10-15 DC, 11-14 AC

I measured with a digital multi meter on the Ohm setting. I tested another 16' m8000 with 300 miles on it and got slightly less resistnace on the charge coils on his and the same resistance on the lighting coil which to me seems like it proves my stator is good.

How do i check the spark plug caps and coils? I have ordered a new VR since it is relatively cheap so i may start with that so that i can either put the blame on the VR or at least rule it out.

 

[mountianguy]

After rereading your original post, it's like you have a short to ground somewhere. If you had no issues until you changed the bars. I would go back to the handle bars and start there, checking the wires and connections. Measure all the electrical devices hand warmers etc look for a wire rubbed through something has changed. Now the vr may be failed but if there is a separate issue the new one wont last long either. If the lighting coil is out of spec it is most likely in need of replacement. You are checking the coil cold and it could show close to spec but when hot it could be a different reading. To check the spark plug caps you will need a meter capable of 5000 ohms most of the digital meters don't go that high. You will need a Fluke meter. The coils are the same type of check as the stator they are nothing more than two wraps of wire. The specs are important to get but when you have multiple devices (4 coils) a compare some should give you enough info.

edit; Thanks to Skegpro i did find the service manual for your machine on Country Cats website. All the specs and info you require is in the manual.

 

[Jjanke]

After rereading your original post, it's like you have a short to ground somewhere. If you had no issues until you changed the bars. I would go back to the handle bars and start there, checking the wires and connections. Measure all the electrical devices hand warmers etc look for a wire rubbed through something has changed. Now the vr may be failed but if there is a separate issue the new one wont last long either. If the lighting coil is out of spec it is most likely in need of replacement. You are checking the coil cold and it could show close to spec but when hot it could be a different reading. To check the spark plug caps you will need a meter capable of 5000 ohms most of the digital meters don't go that high. You will need a Fluke meter. The coils are the same type of check as the stator they are nothing more than two wraps of wire. The specs are important to get but when you have multiple devices (4 coils) a compare some should give you enough info.

edit; Thanks to Skegpro i did find the service manual for your machine on Country Cats website. All the specs and info you require is in the manual.

When you say measure the devices, are you saying check the power supply to the plug ins while the sled is running?

I do not think the coils are bad because even though I’m measuring it cold, it checks out to the same spec as my buddies did when I measured it cold as well.

I think a short could be possible just tough to actually narrow it down. Will strip the controls off again and check the wires closely again for any runner through wires.

 

[mountianguy]

I am thinking measure the ohms ,look for an open could help narrow down the search. Read the manual on CC website that may also help.

 

[Jjanke]

Found the problem. The brake light switch was pinched between the brake lever mount and the handle bar control. It was shorting out to my metal brake fluid resivour. Ready to ride for the holidays.

Thanks everyone for your help and comments along the way.