2016 M8000 162 Ltd - hard starting when warm, getting tired of pulling it 3-5 times

[acesup800]

When heat soaked on the hill and it gets shut off, it never fires first pull. Sometimes 3-6 pulls and if it doesn't start on the first pull, you always have to add throttle. Is it flooding or is the heat soak leaning letting the temp sensor to lean it out?

It is getting old pretty fast. Any solutions or simply buy a doo? Buddies new doo starts every time on first pull, cold or hot.

 

[kovs]

Get shot then you only have to start in the morning even better

 

[Fatdaddy]

Check your reeds

 

[acesup800]

Check your reeds

I can, but any reason why this could be an issue? No other running issues whatsoever. A broken reed typically causes noticeably more issues than simply starting problems. Also, always starts second pull when cold and first pull when on the trail. Only causes problems when deep snow and then gets shutoff.
Plus, it only has 1000 miles on it.

 

[dwight3566]

They typically need a little throttle when warm, this is normal.

 

[Fatdaddy]

I can, but any reason why this could be an issue? No other running issues whatsoever. A broken reed typically causes noticeably more issues than simply starting problems. Also, always starts second pull when cold and first pull when on the trail. Only causes problems when deep snow and then gets shutoff.
Plus, it only has 1000 miles on it.

Mine needed throttle to start after warm every time. RPM was lower then normal when idling too. Reeds were my issue

 

[mountianguy]

My starts with a light pull when warm, i always let my idle normalize. When you first stop the idle will be elevated 2400 ish and after a few seconds it will settle down to 1800 ish. Shutting it down at the 2400 is leaving excessive fuel in the engine hence the reason you need more air to start it. Basically its is a minor flood. The Doo does start better than anything else, mine cold is 2-3 pulls and warm its 1.

 

[acesup800]

Generally, I don't shut it down on high idle and most times, it doesn't high idle. It just seems to start hard and once running, it idles very low for a bit. Other than that, it runs perfectly fine. As suggested, I should check the reeds, but that is a serious PITA. Probably going to have to, but the thought of wasting a full day to check something I am not fully sure of, well.....

 

[ippielb]

Generally, I don't shut it down on high idle and most times, it doesn't high idle. It just seems to start hard and once running, it idles very low for a bit. Other than that, it runs perfectly fine. As suggested, I should check the reeds, but that is a serious PITA. Probably going to have to, but the thought of wasting a full day to check something I am not fully sure of, well.....

Find a buddy with a scope or rent one, pop the hood off, open the throttle with an elastic band. Stick the scope on the throttle bodies and check for cracks, chips, and how well they’re sealing.

Makes it a “1 beer job”

 

[acesup800]

Find a buddy with a scope or rent one, pop the hood off, open the throttle with an elastic band. Stick the scope on the throttle bodies and check for cracks, chips, and how well they’re sealing.

Makes it a “1 beer job”

Yep, a 1 beer job. Thanks for the info cause it worked perfectly. And thanks to fatdaddy on the reeds. That is the problem. One side has 2 chipped petals.

 

[Mike270412]

Find a buddy with a scope or rent one, pop the hood off, open the throttle with an elastic band. Stick the scope on the throttle bodies and check for cracks, chips, and how well they’re sealing.

Makes it a “1 beer job”

Yep. That's how I discovered the broken reeds on my 12.

 

[acesup800]

Well, got the reeds out. 1 hour and 45 min. Could easily do it in an hour next time. Unhooked the coolant line, but never unhooked the oil line. In fact, not sure where you would unhook the oil line. I have two lines from the oil pump that feed the bottom of the reed assembly. Nothing feeds the throttle bodies.

 

[ippielb]

Well, got the reeds out. 1 hour and 45 min. Could easily do it in an hour next time. Unhooked the coolant line, but never unhooked the oil line. In fact, not sure where you would unhook the oil line. I have two lines from the oil pump that feed the bottom of the reed assembly. Nothing feeds the throttle bodies.

The two lines that go to the throttle body boots are the injction lines directly from the oil pump. Best not to unhook them, any air bubbles in the lines could cause some grief later on.

All you have to do is move the throttle bodies out of the way, unfold the throttle body boots and push them forward into where the air box was like how the throttle bodies were and then remove the reed cages.

Hopefulyl you put loctite on the little wcrews that hold the petal stoppers and petals on.

 

[acesup800]

The two lines that go to the throttle body boots are the injction lines directly from the oil pump. Best not to unhook them, any air bubbles in the lines could cause some grief later on.

All you have to do is move the throttle bodies out of the way, unfold the throttle body boots and push them forward into where the air box was like how the throttle bodies were and then remove the reed cages.

Hopefulyl you put loctite on the little wcrews that hold the petal stoppers and petals on.

I will put locktite on as soon as I get the reeds. Dealership wasn't open today. Will try tomorrow and hope they have the parts. Need the gaskets too.

Also, is there an inner and an outer reed? Does it matter left or right side or top or bottom?

 

[ippielb]

I will put locktite on as soon as I get the reeds. Dealership wasn't open today. Will try tomorrow and hope they have the parts. Need the gaskets too.

Also, is there an inner and an outer reed? Does it matter left or right side or top or bottom?

Reed Part Number - 3007-888 $50 a piece

Only one part number. Top bottom upside down, right side up doesn’t matter. It’s all the same. They’re perfectly flat. No markings on them for top or bottom.

The gaskets for the reed cage part number is 3005-879 which are $17 a piece... go to any power sports store, they will probably sell wiseco gaskets for like $3 a piece.

 

[Fatdaddy]

Reed Part Number - 3007-888 $50 a piece

Only one part number. Top bottom upside down, right side up doesn’t matter. It’s all the same. They’re perfectly flat. No markings on them for top or bottom.

The gaskets for the reed cage part number is 3005-879 which are $17 a piece... go to any power sports store, they will probably sell wiseco gaskets for like $3 a piece.

There is in fact a right side. My dealer installed backwards and I wasted a trip that weekend. There is a slight curve to them and if installed backwards they will not seat properly.

 

[ippielb]

There is in fact a right side. My dealer installed backwards and I wasted a trip that weekend. There is a slight curve to them and if installed backwards they will not seat properly.

That’s news to me, I have a brand new set of reeds on the shelf and last I looked I never seen a difference at all, no markings, no curve.

Maybe I’m just lucky and have put them on the right way every time, but I’ve changed reeds on all 6 of my sleds. And never had a problem.

 

[Fatdaddy]

Here's the reeds installed backwards. Shows slight curve

 

[ippielb]

Looks like faulty reeds to me, that or they put used reeds into your sled. They’re designed to be flat and the preload gets tired over time, the material relaxes and from being opened and closed so many times they take on a shape that is more relaxed.

 

[AGGRESIVEZEBRA]

Just went to the back and grabbed a brand new set of oem pedals. they sit perfectly flat on the counter either way i set them down. As well no markings at all as to side up. tried to get a picture but almost impossible. there should not be any curvature to the reeds from the package.