2016 162 td electric start question.

[Tuesday]

Picked up my first cat for my son today. Sled has 340 miles on it and as a bonus it came with E start. But the seller tells me when he hits the start it pops a fuse. Is this a common issue and is there a common spot to look for the culprit? I assume there is something grounding out just have to find it is all. Might even just be the switch. With this being the first cat I just dont know them inside and out. Probably never use the start but since it is on the sled might as well get it operational.
Thanks.

 

[Clode]

Trollcat on here may be able to help, he has had blown fuse issues

 

[TROLLCAT]

pop the right side cover exhaust side on frame rail is the fuse box, remove the can/muffler you can see starter end/wires

check battery too

 

[Tuesday]

Got the sled tonight. Guy I bought it from said it just kept poping fuses. I open up fuse box and sure enough fuse was poped. Put in a bigger fuse and checked all the wires couldnt find anything as a culprit. CHecked the battery and made sure it had power. Turned the key and nothing. Fuse did not pop and nothing tried to engage. Never owned a cat before I assume it is just cranking the key to get it to start? Kill switch was off. Fires right up with the pull rope but seems silly to pack an estart around but not be able to use it.
Cheers.

 

[papajake]

jump start the starter if it turns over the problem is between key and relay

 

[TROLLCAT]

signal wire on solenoid power's up when key is turned to start

 

[Tuesday]

Finally able to do some testing tonight pretty sure the key is the problem. When I turn the key only about 2 volts makes it back to the solenoid. If I just the solenoid it fires right up.

 

[Tuesday]

well new key and no different. went through everything again. rechecked fuses and they look all good then I noticed that one of hte diodes was melted. Pulled it out and boom fired right up with it out or a different one in. Not really sure why the diode and fuse were melted but probably wont get to really test things until next year to see if it blows again under load or riding.

 

[Tuesday]

Dumb question when I get new diodes which way should the point. Towards front or rear of sled. I assume they are supposed to go in one way and maybe the previous owner put them in backwards?

 

[TROLLCAT]

Dumb question when I get new diodes which way should the point. Towards front or rear of sled. I assume they are supposed to go in one way and maybe the previous owner put them in backwards?

wire diagram should show direction of diodes

on mine there are pointing in different directions

 

[Tuesday]

mind snapping a photo of your fuse box? ppollock@platinum.ca

 

[TROLLCAT]

I will get you the info

a pic of mine will not help because mine is added after I purchased it which makes it different than buying it new with starter

I have 2 fuse boxes on my sled

 

[Lund]

well new key and no different. went through everything again. rechecked fuses and they look all good then I noticed that one of hte diodes was melted. Pulled it out and boom fired right up with it out or a different one in. Not really sure why the diode and fuse were melted but probably wont get to really test things until next year to see if it blows again under load or riding.

Interesting, can you explain why a diode is used in a starting circuit on these Cat's? Diodes are not generally used on starting circuits but more on charging circuit's. But maybe Cat uses one for some odd reason.
You said it is melted, maybe the diode is pooched because something else went wrong. The guy you bought it from said it blows the same fuse all the time, the diode might had got damaged from this. I would pull the entire fuse holder and inspect it and trace the wires attached to the culprit fuse and diode and confirm that they are related to the start circuit. I suspect they are not and one damaged the other. Your problem is probably a solenoid wire pinched or rubbed to the chassis that is causing a back feed, damage diode and the fuse to blow. Cat wiring layout and fit and finish suck and prone to issues.
An easy way to check is to attach a meter or test light to the solenoid wire in reverse, neg to the solenoid post and pos to the chassis. If you get a reading or light turns on when you attempt to start and i suspect you will, the power wire to the solenoid is shorted some where to the chassis causing the issues.
The fact that you are getting 2volts is the give away, voltage takes the path of least resistant, in your case the chassis and that also explains why the diode is damaged.
Good luck.

 

[Tuesday]

Still odd the estart works the the diode in or out. But if I put the melted one in it doesnt work.

 

[Lund]

Still odd the estart works the the diode in or out. But if I put the melted one in it doesnt work.

I'm at odd that a diode is being used for estart, starting circuit don't generally use a diode. I think that your estart is ok but the issue is caused by the damage diode causing a short. I wonder if they installed a diode so to isolate the charging system from the cranking current....bet they are..makes complete sense now.
With diode out your charging system will not charge the battery but the starter will work like normal. The diode is bridging the system allowing current to the battery for charging but not allowing reverse current when the starter is engaged.
The question is if this is true, why did the diode fail?

 

[Got boost want snow]

Depending on the circuit it could be across the coil of the start relay to protect against spikes in voltage. I would have to see a schematic to know for sure.

 

[Go-Vertical]

It’s probably in there as a flash back diode to protect the circuit. When the starter is disengaged it may create its own voltage back into the circuit as it freewheels to a stop.

 

[Tuesday]

Thanks gang!

 

[Lund]

Thanks gang!

I'ed be willing to say the reason the diode pooched is because someone either tried to charge the battery improperly on the sled or boost the sled with another battery or charger and didn't hookup properly.
I see this all the time people improperly hookup batteries or charger and cause an arch that will spike into the electrical system. Generally in automotive application it blows the alternator diode if it is big enough of a arch. In something like a sled with a small battery it would not take much of an arch to cause an issue.
To prevent issues it is best to charge the battery with the neg. cable disconnected in this case.
When you hook up a charger or a battery to the electrical system or to boost from another battery..the rule is...hookup pos. cable FIRST then hookup neg. cable to the engine block. To disconnect....disconnect the neg. cable FIRST then the pos. cable. Doing so will prevent aching and a spike going into the system and possibly damaging the diodes.