2013 M800 FULL Jaws exhaust

[feetsbig]

I have a 13 800 and I want to do a full Jaws pipe kit,Couple riding partners have SLP with powercomanders and its a great improvement over stock.So I want to go Jaws so I can kick thier butts.I live near Kamloops BC and want to find the dealer nearest me,or the best one to deal with.I will be doing the install,sled already has V-Force reeds.Any info would be appreciated.

 

[gsteve]

call brent at arctic edge... he is the jaws guru and has everything you will need including clutching. You will kick slp azz all over the snow.

 

[mountain_tamer]

x2 on Arctic Edge I have Jaws pipe and clutching from him and my sled flat out rips

 

[feetsbig]

if anyone has a used setup please pm me

 

[gsteve]

i thought u bought one

 

[ThrottleOps]

x2 on Arctic Edge I have Jaws pipe and clutching from him and my sled flat out rips

x3 took my turbo off and went to the jaws setup and belt drive for tree bashing! loving it

 

[lewey]

is it very loud? how does it compare to an slp, sound and performance. one thing nice about sip is they aren't very loud

 

[feetsbig]

hey bopper,do you like the throttle response better as compared to the turbo?

 

[readimedic]

Has anyone here did the air temp sensor mod and move it too the throttlebodies??
I am all over the map for mapping and it bogs, farts, pops and runs like hell with the Jaws. A few people on the Snowest forum have had the same problems. I have made 33 changes to the mapping, with no effective results.
I will be moving back my sensor to factory position today. Brent Linderman actually told me that the mod has to be done. One of the guys on Snowest said, it should only be done if there is motor mods done. Mine rocked before the mod.
Has anyone else experienced the same symptoms??

 

[0neoldfart]

Has anyone here did the air temp sensor mod and move it too the throttlebodies??
I am all over the map for mapping and it bogs, farts, pops and runs like hell with the Jaws. A few people on the Snowest forum have had the same problems. I have made 33 changes to the mapping, with no effective results.
I will be moving back my sensor to factory position today. Brent Linderman actually told me that the mod has to be done. One of the guys on Snowest said, it should only be done if there is motor mods done. Mine rocked before the mod.
Has anyone else experienced the same symptoms??

Mine is moved to the throttle bodies, and I've relocated the sensor on two others, too. One was a stock 2014, one was a 2012 with the Jaws pipe set, and mine, which is a Arctic Edge 925 with a Jaws pipe set. All of the machines run very well, better (crisper) then stock. I would caution that too much venting of the airbox is a bad thing, as it changes air velocity and flow - I've seen this occur, and the fix was to purchase a new airbox and start over. Does your pipe set have a reducer in it? Are you running the shelf that Jaws supplies?

 

[readimedic]

I am waiting for the reducer from Greg at Jaws. Nope, I took the shelf out on advice also from Brent Linderman. Otherwise I was running it before I moved the sensor.
So I am also considering putting it back in too.

 

[readimedic]

Well, did more testing today with the throttle safety switch unhooked in the throttle block and it made no difference. So its getting hooked back up. So currently in the process of moving the air intake temp back to the factory spot in the top intake.
Will post once completed and tested.

 

[0neoldfart]

Something else is going on... I know that Greg likes to use the shelf and originally sold the pipe without a reducer. Using his BD numbers as a baseline, you should be close, unless you have a faulty temp sensor or your barometric pickup tube is routed incorrectly. With a reducer, no shelf, temp sensor relocate and Brent's numbers at Arctic Edge, my sled runs flawless - but bear in mind I don't ride it locally, only at elevation. Power valve cable adjustment (and cables that move freely) are a must, and fuel pressure is critical. If you are not tuning / monitoring with EGT's, you may not be able to see exactly what's going on.

 

[readimedic]

Well, where do I start. I did actually check power valve cables, they were over 1/4 inch too short, so not long enough. Not getting full valve movement.
So I adjusted that. So, I would advice check it, check them often. So I have to say, they came short from Cat.
I reconnected the throttle safety switch. It turned out to not be any problem and totally operational.
Disconnected my POD-300 just to rule out everything, not the issue. Disconnected the dual map switch, not the issue.
So like I mentioned, I moved back the air intake temp sensor. It was the DAM problem. Runs like a top, like it did since day one from the crate.
Although the pipe is still the problem, the new one from Greg will be here tomorrow, then I will be installing first thing and then retesting.
So now, back to the mapping table, it should definitely be different with that reducer and pipe inside the exit point.
So back to what I said earlier, I recommend go to Greg for the pipe, not a sealer. Very important that you get the right one. Greg also told me that the pipe is also the reason why I cannot get full RPMs. I have never been able too since I have had this pipe, no matter what I have done.
So from what I can tell, I would not add the air intake temp kit to a cat unless it is stock with just a can or unless your engine is modified. Its amazing how one modification can screw up the performance instead of increase it so be careful. Will post how how the new pipe does tomorrow..

 

[ThrottleOps]

hey bopper,do you like the throttle response better as compared to the turbo?

yea you bet its instant again and is nice and torquey

 

[readimedic]

New pipe is on with a welded in reducer in the exit. Also got another fit in reducer with the pipe for elevation.
Dam, that pipe gets hot now. The other one sure didn't.